Timing Belt Change How-To - Page 3 - Toyota Sienna Forum - siennachat.com
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post #31 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 08:01 PM
jc
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Guys,

Here are some pictures of the timing belt job.

Regards, Jason.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg crankshaft pulley holder.JPG (2.86 MB, 379 views)
File Type: jpg darn bolt broke in the 2nd timing belt cover.JPG (2.56 MB, 274 views)
File Type: jpg how to remove a stubborn power steering pump pulley.JPG (2.36 MB, 250 views)
File Type: jpg red high temp gasket maker to seal the timing belt cover.JPG (2.69 MB, 202 views)

1998 Sienna XLE Silver Spruce Metallic
Air Lift 1000's
Bridgestone Ecopia Summer/Bridgestone Blizzaks Winter
284,xxx kms - Sold... soon to be retired from Siennachat....
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post #32 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 08:10 PM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Guys,

A few more pictures.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg old versus new water pump.JPG (2.64 MB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg shot of engine without cowl.JPG (2.81 MB, 214 views)

1998 Sienna XLE Silver Spruce Metallic
Air Lift 1000's
Bridgestone Ecopia Summer/Bridgestone Blizzaks Winter
284,xxx kms - Sold... soon to be retired from Siennachat....
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post #33 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 08:24 PM
jc
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Guys,

Here are my timing belt job tips and problem issues.

Timing belt tips

(1) Have plenty of WD-40 ready to spray every bolt that will be removed.
(2) Don't be in a rush to do this job.
(3) Have an air gun rated at 500 ft-lbs to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt as well as
a puley holder.
(4) Put every piece you remove and all related nuts, bolt or fasteners in their own
ziplock bags and use a sharpie to label what you just removed
(5) Start with removing the Crankshaft pulley bolt. It took 30-45 mins to remove mine.
the bolt loosens to the left. When using the air gun do not use any other extension bars on
on the gun. That will lessen the effect of the force on the bolt. Every 2 mins give it a good
shot of WD-40 to loosen it up. It's a major pain but it will come off.
(6) Remove the cowl to get easy access to the rear spark plugs and rear cam timing mark.
(7) Since the cowl is removed, change your spark plugs. It's much easier to do now
(8) You can use a 1.5 mm cotter pin as the "grenade pin" on the timing belt tensioner when reinstalling.
(9) when re-threading the belt and reinstalling the tensioner, make sure you turn each bolt
on the tensioner 2 times and then alternate bolts. Do not be in a rush to get the tensioner
installed. Doing this may cause one of the timing marks on the cam to shift. Trust me
I re-threaded the belt 10 times when I did mine.
(10) When you rotate the engine 720 degrees, you can use a socket rotating the engine clockwise.
I did this 10 times to make sure that all three timing marks were bang on.

Problem areas for me
(1) Removing the power steering belt. I had to remove the nut on the power steering pulley to get
the darn thing off.
(2) The rear bolt for the motor mount broke. $17 for a new one. Had to get my buddy to hear it
up to remove the piece that broke off it.
(3) I grinded my upper timing belt cover instead of removing the cam gears. When I
realized that I now could allow water to get into the belt, I had to by some Red high temp
gasket maker and fix my screw UP!!! Don't grind away that cover.
(4) I had a real pain reinstalling the new power steering belt. Napa sold me the wrong size.
I just reused the old belt.


I started the job on a Monday night and finished on Wednesday night where the engine
would fire.

Here is a breakdown of what I did on each day

Monday night - Got the Crankshaft pulley bolt off and then drained the
coolant the first night.
Tuesday - Spend time fighting with the power steering belts. Had to remove the pulley to get the
belt off. Had the rear motor mount bolt break, so had to bend the top part of it away
and then remove the aluminum timing belt cover and take it to my buddies and get it
removed via heat. Also went to Toytota to get a new bolt.
Removed everything else and grinded away the top timing belt cover to remove the water pump.
Installed the new water pump and put in the red gasket maker to seal it up. See pic.

Wednesday, I reinstalled the water pump, new belt and accessory belts and installed
new spark plugs and coolant. Fired it up at 8:30 pm and got codes P0100 and P0110. forgot to
connect the PCV valve and MAF to the air filter box. PHEWWWWWWW.

Thursday, bled the brakes and then put the cowl back in. HAd to run to the dealer to get some new
clips for the rubber weather strip on the cowl.

I finally got it done and it wasn't that bad. Considering I had just changed a timing belt and
water pump on a 97 civic by Monday morning. It was a great experience and leads to more
confidence in tackling and issues when it comes to working on my Sienna.

Regards, Jason.



1998 Sienna XLE Silver Spruce Metallic
Air Lift 1000's
Bridgestone Ecopia Summer/Bridgestone Blizzaks Winter
284,xxx kms - Sold... soon to be retired from Siennachat....
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post #34 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 08:35 PM
jc
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Guys,

Last pics I promise! I have to show you what a timing belt with 197,040 kms on it looks like...

Regards, Jason.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg original timing belt.JPG (1.58 MB, 218 views)
File Type: jpg timing belt side.JPG (2.22 MB, 191 views)

1998 Sienna XLE Silver Spruce Metallic
Air Lift 1000's
Bridgestone Ecopia Summer/Bridgestone Blizzaks Winter
284,xxx kms - Sold... soon to be retired from Siennachat....
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post #35 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 08:30 PM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

This thread provided some real good information. Thought I would add to it based on my experience this weekend.

The last picture is a tool I used to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. I made it out of a piece of angle iron and drilled a hole to line up with the hole on the left side of the crankshaft pulley. The angle iron bottoms out on the sub frame. I used a 16 inch breaker bar and a 22mm 6 point socket. I was surprised how well it worked. The second picture should give some general dimensions. A shorter piece of angle iron would have worked.

Also instead of removing the camshaft pulleys in order to get the water pump off, I removed the bolts that hold the rear timing belt cover and then removed the two long studs (1st picture) that go through the water pump. I was able to wiggle the water pump out without removing the camshaft pulleys or the rear timing cover. You can see in JC's earlier post where the studs are when the water pump is installed.

Hopefully the pictures will help give you an idea of how to use the angle iron.


I have a 2004 Sienna.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0086.JPG (1.30 MB, 250 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0082.JPG (915.9 KB, 230 views)
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post #36 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 03:22 PM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

BajaScout,

Did you need a impact gun to loosen the crankshaft bolt, or just the breaker bar? How long did it take to loosen the bolt. Too bad I didn't think of the angle iron. On the old Siennaclub website someone used a piece of scrap metal. They had a blueprint type of diagram with dimensions etc, however I didn't make a copy and I was ticked when the old website went down!

Glad to hear it worked out for you.

Regards, JC.

1998 Sienna XLE Silver Spruce Metallic
Air Lift 1000's
Bridgestone Ecopia Summer/Bridgestone Blizzaks Winter
284,xxx kms - Sold... soon to be retired from Siennachat....
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post #37 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 06:57 PM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

JC,
I used a 16 inch long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. The bolt came loose first try. I pushed my legs against the car and used my legs vice my arms for strength. No impact wrench. I would also recommend using a grade 8 bolt for securing the angle iron to the pulley to avoid bending the bolt. I used a bolt I found in my bolt bin. Lucked out and it did not bend. Here is a picture of the angle iron being used for installing the crankshaft pulley. Worked fine there too. I am just a backyard mechanic and felt nervous doing this job. Had a sigh of relief when the Sienna fired up and ran smoothly. Bought the belt, water pump, tensioner roller and idler roller online from Rock Auto. Everything was OEM except for the belt. It was a Mitsubishi belt. The belt had the three marks for getting it aligned, but did not have a direction arrow as to which way to face it. Only two options so, of course option 2 worked.

AISIN Part # TKT006 Engine Timing Belt Component Kit With Water Pump; Includes Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idler, Water Pump, Gasket

Link to parts: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1798450

Your post was very helpful along with the service manual I downloaded. Thanks for posting your experience.

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post #38 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 08:53 PM
jc
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Baja,

You're most welcome. I got most of the information from here, Toyotanation and another website which I cannot recall. I too had never done a timing belt job before. It was a PITA (Pain in the A$$) to do, but I was patient when doing it. I had done my wife's civic two days before. How much time did it take you to do the entire job?

Since I took the cowl off, I also bled the brakes and changed spark plugs while I was in there. I would estimate the total time for me was around 15 hours. I had a real pain with removing the power steering belt and the broken bolt in the middle timing belt cover. Also had fun when trying to set the tension with the tensioner. I must have had one of the camshaft alignment marks skip a tooth when tigtening it down. I think I re-threaded the belt around 10 times. Those white timing lines were on the Toyota OEM belt too, but they were useless.

Once I had the tensioner on correctly, I did the 720 degree check more than 10 times before bolting everything back on. Needless to say my next timing belt job will go a hell of a lot faster. That's if I buy a second generation 3.3 litre engine and not upgrade to the 3.5 liter with the timing chain.

This job can be done if you are not in a rush and you have patience and the right tools.

Regards, JC.

1998 Sienna XLE Silver Spruce Metallic
Air Lift 1000's
Bridgestone Ecopia Summer/Bridgestone Blizzaks Winter
284,xxx kms - Sold... soon to be retired from Siennachat....
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post #39 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 08:09 AM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

I would say it took me about 10 hours.
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post #40 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 02:04 PM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Anyone thinking about doing their Sienna timing belt should take a look at this video. It is very helpful and shows you how to do the whole job: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI60M...feature=relmfu This is on a 2000 Lexus with the same engine in the Sienna.

I've done 5 of these now on different vehicles and I've been able to get the flywheel bolt off three times with a 3/4 inch air gun from Harbor Freight. The other two times, I had to use the Schley holder tool http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...JPRW0A2Y0ZXRAH and a big long extension resting on a jackstand and a big long cheater bar. Use a 6 point socket too.

You will note in the youtube video you can change out the water pump without having to remove the camshaft pulleys and the last timing cover. It saves a lot of time. Its tricky to get the water in that space, but I've done it. I also bought an ebay set of the stud pullers shown in the video and they work great. This saves you from having to remove the cowl as well as the pulleys and cover. If you are doing your plugs, by all means remove the cowl. Its the only way I have been able to get to the back row of plugs. If you're just doing down to the water pump though, you can save yourself at least an hour and probably more like two by not pulling the cowl and the pulleys.

The video also shows using zip ties to hold the new timing belt in position while threading it through everywhere it needs to go. I did not do this until I saw the video and it makes the job a lot easier, especially for one person.


There is an Aisin timing belt kit on ebay these days that includes a belt, water pump and pulleys. The pulleys and water pump are from the OEM manufacturer. The belt was Mitsiboshi and it may also be an OEM supplier to Toyota. (The belt does not have the same markings as the OEM belt in that the mark showing you which way is forward is not there. But the cam and crank alignment marks are there. You should do this anyway, but mark old belt with a paint pen on each of the alignment marks and draw an arrow for which was is front. That way if your new belt does not have the arrow indicating which side is out, you can hold your old belt up to it and figure it out easily.) The kit is currently running about $150. It comes with the OEM metal gasket for the water pump. I've never used gasket sealer with this OEM gasket. If you're using some other brand, you're on you own. I think the correct torque (measured in inch pounds for these bolts) is important in getting a good seal. They are not on very tight, but I don't remember the spec off the top of my head. I've never had to replace the hydraulic tensioner.
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post #41 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 07:42 PM
jc
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim662
I've done 5 of these now on different vehicles and I've been able to get the flywheel bolt off three times with a 3/4 inch air gun from Harbor Freight.
Jim,

How long did it take for the bolt to come off with the Harbour Freight Impact gun? Did you spray some WD-40 on the bolt to get it loose?

Regards, JC.

1998 Sienna XLE Silver Spruce Metallic
Air Lift 1000's
Bridgestone Ecopia Summer/Bridgestone Blizzaks Winter
284,xxx kms - Sold... soon to be retired from Siennachat....
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post #42 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 08:30 AM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

On the ones that the HF 3/4" impact gun did work, it took several tries. What I had to do was to pull the trigger for just a couple of seconds and then stop and let the air line "recharge" so that the gun had maximum air going to it and max. effectiveness. I'd also consider turning up the air compressor as high as 130-150psi. Mine stops at about 120. Then I would hit it again for a couple of seconds and then do the "recharge" process again. For the ones that came off, it took maybe 5 tries. Just leaving the gun on it and running it for 10 or 30 or whatever seconds doesn't do it. Like I said earlier 2/5 would not budge

As for WD 40 or other penetrating oil, I've never used it. That bolt is threaded deeply and there is a big flange built into the head. I don't think you could get any oil in there if you tried. Heat is a no-go too, because the metal of the crank and the metal of the bolt is the same.

The problem is that people just put those bolts in with an impact gun and seem to have way more torque than they are supposed to have.

If you can't get it off with a 3/4" gun, you've either got to go with the breaker bar and a long extension to clear the fender well (if you don't have a lift) or you could try the "starter" method. I've never done it that way and it sounds dangerous, but when I did my Mercury Villager, people were swearing by that method. You'd have to google it to see what you think. I believe there was a post at Toyota Nation of people doing this.

Here are my notes on the power steering pump and how to loosen the hidden bolt. In my opinion , this was the single most difficult part of the job to figure out--everything else is relatively straight forward:

It is tricky to figure out where both bolts are on the power steering pump. There is rather obvious 12 mm bolt that locks the tension on the belt. The other bolt is a similar looking goldish color that is located above and behind the power steering pulley. It is at 11 o’clock or so. The only way to see it is to look behind the power steering pump pulley with your head toward the rear of the car. In other words, you are not looking on the same side of the shock tower as you would be if you were looking at the crank pulley. You have to look on the other side, and you have to kind of crawl under that area. It’s got a similar bolt head as to the lock bolt that you just removed. It’s hard to see to say the least. To make matters worse, I couldn’t get a socket on it with my 3/8” Craftsman set. I tried a regular socket – too short. The deep socket was too long. A socket with extension was too long. Finally, I found that the 1/2'’ drive with the regular socket could fit in to the area I had to work. In my opinion, this was the single most difficult bolt to deal with on the whole job.
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post #43 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 10:19 AM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

I just read the rest of this thread where someone had recommended cutting off part of the #3 timing cover near the water pump. Don't do this. There is no need to do it. Watch this video (it may be in part 2) and you will see that you can remove the water pump without removing the cam gears and the #3 timing belt cover. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI60M...feature=relmfu

Also, I've removed the timing gears several times. Its not that hard to do, its just time consuming. You need this tool (or a similar one) if you remove those gears -- Schley Universal Camshaft Holder Tool (p/n 96800).
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post #44 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 07:41 PM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

Spent half the day on this job but didn't manage to finish before the sun went down. The crank bolt wasn't too bad. I borrowed a friends Ingersol Rand 1/2" impact wrench and after a few attempts it cracked it but only after I turned my baby compressor up to 120 psi.

All the other bolts came out in one piece but I managed to chip the harmonic balance crank pulley by trying to remove with the wrong kind of puller. I had to go to the store to get the right tool (a 40 minute round trip) which worked fine but I think I may have to rebalance the pulley or find a replacement.

Both PS pump and alternator were stiff but brute force got them shifted to remove the belts.

The water pump removal was a nightmare. I watched the YouTube video where the guy manages to get the waterpump out without removing the camshaft pulley. In my case, there were a bunch of bolts holding the waterpump in place but also 2 studs. The upper stud prevented me from getting the pump off using the "cheat" method. Had it been a regular bolt it would have been fine and dandy. In the end, I hacked about 1/4" off the stud and finally managed to get the pump out. No chance of getting the new one back in though and I think I'll need to get the camshaft pulley off once I buy or craft a suitable tool.

Also, the shitty water pump gasket took me at least a half hour to scrape off the block. Serious PITA...!!! The proper gasket shouldn't bond like that.

Luckily, this is a secondary vehicle so I pulled the pug late Sunday afternoon and I'll finish off over the week but first I'll need that tool.
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post #45 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 07:23 PM
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Re: Timing Belt Change How-To

I'm having issues aligning my marks on replacing my belts. My camshafts align fine (TDC) but my crankshaft won't align to TDC. It's like 3 teeth short. If I align my crankshaft, my camshafts don't align. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: BTW, I think I know what I did wrong (stupid me..) I was hand cranking the camshaft instead of the crankshaft, I did feel a slip while cranking the camshaft clockwise but never did happen again. Can I just align the crankshaft when I get the belt off? Can anyone help me in my dilemma. Thanks.
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