Re: Rear Engine Mount Replacement
Rear Engine Mount is DIYable. Folks.
First do some other general research first. To save $500 bucks, please do 50 minute research first. In car, you know, it's alway easy said then done. You do need basic car tools (Impact gun, floor jack, saw, 2x4 wood block, etc..). If you only have a $99 toolbox, don't try it. This is for ethusiatic Saturday mechanic DIY.
Then, the key points are:
1. jack up car, take off right tire to get access
2. after releasing housing bolt, use reciprocating saw to cut the bushing/insulator from inside, don't cut too much, just enough to cut old bushing out.
3. When putting back the new one which won't fit, of course, so make sure:
a) put it in freezer overnight before to shrink it enough
b) get a grinder (to grind off the surface of bushing metal to make it thinner to fit in )(I would not recommend to do it, below is why)
c) DON"T hammer it in,
WHY: I did a lot of research last year on replacing rear mount and I hired a guy with garage for $100 replacing it while working with him together. (remember, I did research and have the knowledge)
But he didn't do in the right way.
First, it took him hours to work on axle and axle is stuck, in the end, I suggest cutting and it worked.
Then, he tried to hammer in the new one and didn't work, worse, damage the housing and axle alignment.
Finally he called a pro and cut the one that was half-in out again. Then, buy a new one, grind it all surface to shrink it, it finally was put in but I feel the gap is big and car wasn't as smooth as before when driving.
So in retrospect, I believe the freezer approach is the right one, which didn't permernantly change the orgininal tolerance.
A few months later (summer 2011), the rear mount replaced by that guys seems to break again. This time, I ordered new parts, $35, and plan to do it over again with the experience/lessons gained last time.