Hey, the local dealer here says warrant doesn't cover. Do you know the warranty period on the intermediate steering shaft?
Same here, not covered as my time has expired, even though I am under 60K miles. I can get another mechanic to replace the steering shaft, but wanted to know if it must be done, or can it be lubed? I guess it must be replaced to be safe? shame that we as consumers need to replace this item that wears after the 3 year warranty!
I've also been experiencing this issue in my 2011 XLE. I've got just shy of 60k miles on it now. Bought an extended warranty at time of purchase. Just need to find the paperwork... For those who had this repaired, what was the cost?
My 2011 Sienna FWD got the same issue for the last 15-20K miles, now the van odo at 87K miles so i dropped it of at dealer to fix it, the service adviser acknowledged the issue and gave me a loaner. I got Toyota platinum warranty so it will be cover. Also there a TSB for spare tire carriage. I'm not sure it will be done same day as he didn't mention about parts available. For those who got it replaced, what's the part number?
Part of Toyota's "magic" as a low overhead producer is their proliferation of common parts over a huge number of different vehicles. That we've seen intermediate steering shaft recalls and tech service bulletins show up over the years for the Sienna, Prius, Camry, Corolla, Rav4 and various Lexus models and now complaints with 2011+ models tells me there's still something fundamentally amiss here. How hard can it be to make a little U-joint?
This is the advertising copy from an aftermarket supplier of Toyota compatible shafts: Often on original steering columns, the shafts with the coupler wear out. At first it will usually just make a clicking, or ticking noise when moving the steering wheel. This can usually be felt. If not replaced, over time it can cause not only a loose steering feel, but a dangerous safety concern if the joint separates.
I have sneaking suspicion all the intermediate shaft problems are on cars with electric power steering. With a hydraulic system all the energy was at the rack/pinion, and the steering shaft only needed joints to take human power. Now the joints take all the turning force. What is even worse, during a curb bump all that energy shoots ip rhe shatf and then the electric motor kicks in to correct. This I believe causes the shaft to be overloaded, or at least the joint get overloaded.