Curt hitch install

[scubajoe]

I did this write up over at my camper forum, so I'll post the link here:
http://www.lightweightcamperforum.co...hp?p=2216#2216

I will mention again here since many have mentioned it .... I think that the width of the Curt hitch is a bit narrow so that one person can mount it with a pressure fit to the underside of the van, on either side of the rear well, without have to wrestle with the hitch. Maybe I am too optimistic, but that worked out for me. Last bolt required a little prying with a flat prybar between the hitch and the well to get the bolt started.

I also almost finished wiring in my Prodigy brake controller. I need a wire splice to connect the brake wire to the controller, and then I just need to connect the resettable fuse inline (it's hard wired currently). Since I am a ham radio operator, and we travel most of the time with the van (and my wife doesn't want one of my radios permanently mounted in the van) I ran 10 gauge wire from the battery to the cab, and placed "powerpole" connectors on the end. My radio has powerpole connectors as well, as does (now) the brake controller wiring harness, and my DC-AC inverter. So, I can use the one pair of wires run to the cab to power anything I need to.

[topspy]

Nice job & pics! I'm sure your contribution will be helpful to many people.

I've also placed a link to this thread over in the How-to/DIY section.

[scubajoe]

Thanks. I'll try to get some photos of the brake controller as well, once I have it completed.

[brian_bp]

...Since I am a ham radio operator, and we travel most of the time with the van (and my wife doesn't want one of my radios permanently mounted in the van) I ran 10 gauge wire from the battery to the cab, and placed "powerpole" connectors on the end. My radio has powerpole connectors as well, as does (now) the brake controller wiring harness, and my DC-AC inverter. So, I can use the one pair of wires run to the cab to power anything I need to.

Slick... but what if you want to run more than one of those items (brake controller, ham radio, inverter) at the same time?

[scubajoe]

Slick... but what if you want to run more than one of those items (brake controller, ham radio, inverter) at the same time?

I thought someone might ask that , and right now, I can't. But that's not a problem. I can easily built or buy a "powerpole junction" allowing me to plug multiple devices in. I just have to make sure I can handle the power. The resettable fuse should take care of any concerns people have of something else blowing the circuit. But I would likely not have the inverter and brake controller plugged in at the same time. But being able to easily switch means that I can plug different things in for different "events". Road trip without the camper. Ham radio operator helping with an event, etc. My overall goal was to be able to move my radio from house to car or car to house, so putting everything else on powerpole connectors just made sense. Brake controller in my truck is hard wired, and I have a separate line (with powerpoles) for my radio. But there was more space, and holes, to run wires in there.

[topspy]

[scubajoe] originally posted here in this thread that he is selling his Reese 1 1/4" DPS receiver hitch.

I moved his post and created a topic/thread for it here:

FS: Reese 1 1/4" DPS Hitch
http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php/topic,657.0.html

[Lone-Ranger]

Love the quality on the Curt hitch but WOW are they heavy!! makes me wonder how the bolts manage to stay on unstripped under heavy loads.

[brian_bp]

Love the quality on the Curt hitch but WOW are they heavy!! makes me wonder how the bolts manage to stay on unstripped under heavy loads.

There is a lot of steel in a hitch receiver, although I doubt there's much difference in amount between brands.

The weight of the hitch is no problem for the four 12 mm bolts at the rearward frame attachment points (the two forward bolts don't hold up much if any weight), but the trailer's tongue weight is a much bigger challenge, because

• weight-carrying (no weight-distribution system) hitch weight can be up to 350 lb, much higher than the receiver's own weight, and
• the weight on the ball is far behind the rearward mounting bolts, so the hitch acts as a lever and the downward force on the bolts is much more than the actual weight

Properly installed there's still no problem, but it is a demonstration of how strong bolted joints can be, even in tension.

[ijetmx]

Nice post. I just ordered and installed the same hitch. Did it with a floor jack to help hold it in the center while I worked with it. Didn't have to take the exhaust down at all, just bump it over with my forearm enough to start the bolts and then used extensions from there. For me the hardest part was getting the nuts on the van cleaned out enough. There was that annoying rubber filler in it and made it difficult. I have now ordered the wiring for it. I don't plan on towing anything heavy, just a very small harbor freight trailer if anything. I mainly got it for our bike rack. After viewing your photos I think I really should get a set of ramps, that looks much easier than jacks and gives it great height. With the Sienna sag and the Curt hitch the ground clearance when loaded is not great. I am half way through installing the Airlift 1000's on it now. Hopefully they don't leak.