Synthetic Engine Oil for Towing... Is it worth it?

[LiDAR4U]

Hi,

Maybe this should be in maintenance, but how many of you use full synthetic when towing a heavy trailer in especially the warmer climates?

[tcp]

Yup, German Castrol http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...643#Post718643. 4000lbs of trailer and the Rockies = an engine workout. Sienna works great.

[brian_bp]

Most people would not generally classify Alberta as a "warmer climate", but we have hot summer days and real mountains.

Our travel trailer runs 3000 lb loaded; that's not big by travel trailer standards so you might not consider it "heavy", but it is a large fraction of the Sienna's rated capacity and we have towed it in combination with substantial cargo in the van, right to the limits of the Sienna's axle ratings.

I always run a full synthetic engine oil, in part because I do tow, but also because I operate the vehicle in very cold conditions.

Has the synthetic helped engine life? I have no idea. I do appreciate easier starting and what I am sure is less engine wear on cold-weather starts, so the synthetic is worth the cost to me.

[Karsty]

Pretty much what brian_bp said. I will be towing a TT with a 2800 pounds load. Also cold weather starts in the winter ... although not as cold as Alberta ... thank goodness.

I've been using synthetic oil since day one ... and I have 54,000 KM on the 2011 Sienna now.

An ounce of prevention (synthetic oil) is worth a pound of cure (trouble free driving for 54000K) ... so far anyway.

[miked1014]

I have an old Triumph TR 4a, which was having problems maintaining oil pressure, probably due to a worn rod bearing (which I didn't want to replace at the time). The original oil I was using was 10w30. When the engine warmed up, the idle oil pressure was 5 psi (maybe less, supposed to be 15 psi or greater). I switched to 20W50 - which is a pretty thick oil. It was really high pressure when cold, but the oil pressure then dropped to 5 psi when the engine was fully warm. I decided as a last ditch effort to use synthetic oil (can't remember what the weight was, probably 30). I opened the cap to pour it in and was shocked to see that this oil was so lite - almost like a sewing machine oil by its viscosity and was easily less viscous then 10w30. I thought that I had just blown a bunch of money for nothing. I started it up, and it showed good pressure cold (wasn't blowing more then 70 psi revving cold which the 20w50 did). It warmed up, and to my pleasant surprise, the idle oil pressure was something like 20 psi and revving never exceeded 50 psi. I did eventually drop the oil pan and replaced a badly abused rod bearing. I never did get the crank reground.

I now always use fully synthetic oil in any car engine (I should probably change my lawn mower as well).