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2000 Sienna motor mounts

6.6K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Ed's00Sienna  
#1 ·
I have a 2000 Sienna XLE with 80,000 miles. Last year I was verbally advised by my local dealership that Sienna motor mounts should be replaced as routine maintenance item with these older Siennas. However, this dealership has something of a reputation for over selling repairs. Last year they verbally advised me to have it done next time the van was in. At that time they initially they quoted 600.00 for all 4 mounts. Now they estimate 1600.00. While I don't mind helping a service advisor make his boat payments (if the work is really needed), I am somewhat skeptical.

I am wondering how many of you needed motor mount replacement. If so, did you use Toyota parts, and about what was the cost.etc

Secondly, What is the best way to check the motor mounts?

My upper "dogbone" mount seems visually to be fine, the rubber is intact etc. The motor does not shake or jolt when putting the van in drive and then reverse, with foot on the brake. The van drives smoothly with little or no vibration, etc..

The lower rear mount seems to be the hardest to change as the axle has to come out to get the mount off. It is also the hardest to see..

Any thoughts from other Gen 1 owners would be most appreciated.
 
#3 ·
I wondered too about the motor mounts in my 06 Sienna ( 2nd gen) None are leaking , a sign that they are bad nor does the engine " jump" when the accelerator is tapped. Yes , I have changed the dog bone a couple times (206k miles on the van) . I put this question to the Care Care Nut on you tube, a Toyota technician and he says if there are no symtoms of a failed mount dont change them "just because".
 
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#6 ·
Motor mounts, don't get me started.
In my experience with a '99, Sienna has lots of power for larger loads etc, once yer stiffen the rear suspension,, but the motor mounts are her achilles heel.

First big clue... flex pipe in the exhaust gets over-flexed.

Check mounts by... use wheelblocks, put parking prake on,, alternate between drive and reverse,, watch how much the engine shifts around.

Haven't really found a solution for my driving style.
Perhaps OEM's,, perhaps using a powerful bedding compound to fill in the hollows in the rubber- 3M-5200 would at some flexible toughness. Dunno.

Front axle shaft needs to be pulled for the under-mount,, a real pits for home mechanicing. ~$6-800 for full set re-re,, seems about par for the course.


...'the hill that I couldn't'' , but I sure did try. ...down in Baja.... the picture makes it look simpler than it was, and once I did a reconnesance on the E-bike,, I'm glad I didn't get further,, it goes way further up,, then a wayy worse down,, then a bunch more up's downs.. I'da been totally stucked! <;~0

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#9 ·
Front axle shaft needs to be pulled for the under-mount,, a real pits for home mechanicing. ~$6-800 for full set re-re,, seems about par for the course.
If your going to replace it anyway you can cut a groove in the mount casting below the axle bearing using a cut off wheel. Careful not to cut the bearing. Hit the groove using a hammer and chisel, cracking it. 15 minutes. A little oil, remove bolt, c-clip retaining the bearing and the axle will come right out.
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#16 ·
Yeah, definitely a mother to replace! I've only done mine recently (all 4) for the first time in 260k miles. I live in a mild climate though. Also, I was able to hold out until I needed CV joints again (second set) which PROBABLY had about 15k left but I decided to bite the bullet because of some rotting of the boots. Anyway, your dealer is full of it, trying to sell you parts and service you don't need. Try and find a good indie mechanic in your area that maybe specializes in 'Yotas that is highly rated or a good one that friend recommend to you. That's what I do when I don't feel like wrenching on something myself.
 
#17 ·
Old thread reviving...

Well, been two years, what happened so far?

On my pre purchase insp. from a AAA approved indy shop, the mech wanted to do the same 4 mounts, the main mgr. checked it out, and told me to "just drive it".

I don't feel the need yet to replace, it was an $800+ aftermarket est. from mech who might have needed a boat payment too lol, I don't know, he also suggested another $800 for something else.

My 01' CE is at 91k, besides replacing the front vvt sol, so far so good. The oil pan leak is still there, bought a new pan, fipg, and a Fumoto valve for a future new mech to install for me. I would imagine a dealer adding another 0 for profit.
 
#19 ·
Hiya Ed,

Of all the places I have been searching, Carfax, Auto trader, the web, the lists, the dealers, a few good ones came up on "Offerup", I would not have guessed that one.

Only a few had lots of dealer maint. records. I did not put much weight on how it looked, more on how it was kept up, and wanted 01' to 03', and more basic.
 
#20 ·
Hiya Ed,

Of all the places I have been searching, Carfax, Auto trader, the web, the lists, the dealers, a few good ones came up on "Offerup", I would not have guessed that one.

Only a few had lots of dealer maint. records. I did not put much weight on how it looked, more on how it was kept up, and wanted 01' to 03', and more basic.
Hmm! I'll have to check it out! Mine is getting a little long in the tooth with 268k on it, but I'm gonna keep it till she's done since I got her in about '01 with 10k and I know everything I've done to it maintenance wise. But I love 1st Gen Siennas and would like to have another one around with about 100k. Especially with the non-vvt engine, since they're non interference. I even have an extra tranny on my bench that I rebuilt. It's actually the OG trans that I pulled about 7-8k ago for the current one the I rebuilt and put in when I began having problems with the OG at 260k. Anyway, I rambled on too much! 😂 Thanks for the info!
 
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