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Is the hinge repair holding up?

One of our doors failed so the motor is being replaced under the Platinum plan, but we have to pay for the hinges to be replaced. I'm having both hinges done by the same body shop that is doing the motor for Toyota. They gave me a break on the door with the bad motor since most of the labor will be for the motor. We just moved, so there is no way I can take on a project like this right now. Too bad, but a good warning for others to get the hinges fixed before it takes out the motor. Price was $565 for the side that still works and $100 for the side that has the broken motor.

And, yes, I'm torqued about the obviously crappy design (or materials, or assembly or whatever). Recently had to replace the battery and tires and the front brakes need to be done. Those additional items are no fault of the vehicle, but quite the financial load after just buying a house.
 

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Still holding up, and is actually seeing a lot more use than it ever has before it failed, ...I'd say it's fixed and can only hope it stays that way.

...and yes, I know I owe the board some pictures. :(
 

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I know this thread is super old, but there isn't any real resolution to it. I've been having the same problem on both sides of my van. I've looked closely at the hinge and it looks like the bushing has gone out on each. I had a similar problem with my old GMC truck. The fix was about $15 (and a few cuss words) to fix. Here is a video explaining the process on a truck (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvsIHQJIuxY) Even though this hinge is on a sliding door, the principles are still the same. Unfortunately, on the Sienna it looks like these particular hinges are built in such a way that the hinge pin can't be removed or separated from the rest of the hinge (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). Thus, I'm assuming that we need to replace the entire hinge.

I found a set of instructions online that discuss problems with the Sienna sliding doors. It details replacing the motor, and all of the hinges. I'm only concerned with the center hinge which is the very last thing on the list. The instructions are attached. According to the attachment, the replacement part numbers are: 68380–08031 (right side) and 68390–08031 (left side). A quick Google search led me to several places to buy them online for around $90 and around $12 shipping for each side.

I haven't tried the repair yet, but I need to because the hinges are just getting worse and worse. The only concern I have with my findings is that the instructions I found detail taking the entire door off because they are talking about replacing all 3 hinges and the motor. I only need to replace the center hinge, and I'm fairly confident I can get to it without taking the door off.

I'll detail my findings if I find any more new information. Let's keep this thread going until we at least get some pictures and detailed instructions on how to accomplish this.
 

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Hi kornbread. I share your anxiety as there are claims that the hinges can be replaced, but no one has published anything anywhere that explains a procedure without fully removing the door. the Toyota service bulletin explains how to remove the door and replace the hinges and the cable motor. However, many of us just want to replace the center hinges.

I have an '04 Sienna and need new hinges as I have all of the early symptoms. From what I've read and from studying the Toyota service bulletin (EL004-04), here's how I think it can be done.

**I haven't done this yet. I have worn hinges, but my cables are fine (for now)**

1. Open the sliding door.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Disconnect both ends of the cable at the tensioners at each end of the center track. Service bulletin explains how to remove the trim under the rear window to access the rear tensioner. At this point, you can slide the door on the track
4. Remove the bump stop at the end of the upper track
5. Remove stop at end of center track.
6. Unbolt cable carrier (pullies) from center hinge (2 bolts)
7. Carefully slide door rearward allowing roller on top track, and the infamous center hinge to disengage from tracks. You'll need 1 or 2 buddies to hold the door straight as the lower track stays engaged. I may make sense to just take the door off a this point, but it may not be necessary.
8. Unbolt the center hinge and replace.
9. Put it all back together.

Comments welcome,
Illbay
 

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I noticed the passenger door hinge starting to sag and rub on the paint below it as it traveled back on the rail and the door was refusing to close all the way. I could see there was a lot of play by the head of the 1/4" verticle pin and wondered if the hole had elongated or if the pin had just dropped down. I decided that it needed investigation but just a few days later the cable jumped the roller on the same hinge/roller and I had to cut and remove the cable to operate the door.

IF YOU NOTICE IT - DO NOT WAIT TO ADDRESS IT AS THE EXTRA DRAG AND THE MISALIGNMENT WILL CAUSE THE CABLE TO JUMP THE ROLLER.

The stealership said that they had done 3 that month alone - so its not an isolated incident.

So now I'm looking at a new roller/hinge assy at $144.00 from the stealership and a new cable as well...OH... and a whole bunch of time to get it done... Outside... in January.

Gone are the days of trusting that Toyota makes a quality vehicle. Screw you Toyota!
 

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Hello, I put together a how-to guide on replacing the center hinge only. Will take about 1-2 hrs. depending on your skill level, but took very few tools and nothing special. Hope this helps someone else.


diesel-
mine is a 2006, but I'll also attach the breakdown I got off the web.
 

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flowdam: thanks for the guide! Much simpler than the Toyota TSB, and since the center hinge seems to be the underlying source of many of these problems (wish Toyota would own up to that), just as useful. I, too, have a 2006 and am hoping to save roughly $1000 (both doors have this problem) by replacing the center hinges myself (just got the quote yesterday from the dealership of $575 per door).

One newbie question: the TSB indicates that the new hinge(s) should be painted before installation; is that simply so they match the body color (rather unimportant to me) or is there another reason (like corrosion)?
 

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How can I tell if they are sagging? Anything tell-tale? Pretty easy fix on a non-powered door(mine are both manual), by the look of it.
On mine, they started to scrape the paint off the body panel where the center hinge is closest (at the top of the body panel and just below the rear quarter glass). By now the hinges have dug quite a bit into the metal below the paint. Also, if the door seems to drop down right after it is opened and/or it rises up significantly at the last instant when closing it.

I think that ideally when the vehicle and part were new, the door was properly aligned and didn't rise or drop at all when opening or closing or rolling anywhere along its track.
 

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I replaced the passenger side hinge 3 years ago on our 2006 ($45k limited new to me) at 50,000 miles . Now the drivers side is going bad too. What a poor design at 75,000 miles! I have numerous friends with the same problem. I was a line tech for GM & Chrysler in the 70's & 80's. This should definitely be a recall item as it will definitely make the door fail and create a safety issue. Toyota should step up and do the right thing.
 
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