[a_gunslinger]

Last night pulled into the driveway and put the vehicle in park, but the key won't come out. Shift lever appears to go all the way into park. Pushed the shift lever over to left a little more and the key released. A little pressure moves lever over about 1/4" at it registers as in Park. So it seems like it just isnt going fully into park - either physically or vehicle electronics don't think it is. When you push it to left that 1/4" it doesnt stay there, it goes back slightly to right that 1/4" to the position where it won't release key.

Thought, condolences, insight?

Thanks everyone!

 

[paul r]

The shiny shift lever tube? is inserted into a plastic housing of the shift lever assembly. Next to it is a spring and bullet "part" that rides on a plate when selecting gears. I wonder if it is cracked slightly .
See this video. This may or may not be the case but its a start.

 

[a_gunslinger]

The shiny shift lever tube? is inserted into a plastic housing of the shift lever assembly. Next to it is a spring and bullet "part" that rides on a plate when selecting gears. I wonder if it is cracked slightly .
See this video. This may or may not be the case but its a start.

Thanks for the reply! Sounds like I need to take it apart. I was hoping the fact that I only had to push the shift lver 1/4" to the left to make it read as "park" would pinpoint an obvious known issue. But like you mention, some part in there is not doing its job quite right, and hopefully will be obvious. Makes it feel a little less like a stretched or out of adjustment cable. Will report back!

 

[Therbi]

Is your driveway sloped at all or did you have the wheel turned slightly? Sometimes under pressure like that it can bind up and if you give the steering wheel a tug that can release that pressure.

 

[a_gunslinger]

Thanks for the reply. I was facing forward on sloped driveway. At first thats what I thought was going on and did tug wheel - no luck. But if that was the issue pushing parking lever a little to left (without moving steering wheel) more would not have worked.

 

[Ed's00Sienna]

I really like Paul r's answer. If it doesn't work out though, I think there's the slimmest of slim chances that you might be able to have someone "wiggle" the shifter back and forth (car off, wheels chocked obviously) and check for play in the shift linkage. If so, adjust accordingly and reattach. Anyway, keep us posted on what happens!

 

[paul r]

If you decide to remove panels to get to the shift lever assembly now would be a good time to renew the shift lever bushing so you dont have to revisit for replacing in the future. Its is an easy fix while you are there.

 

[a_gunslinger]

If you decide to remove panels to get to the shift lever assembly now would be a good time to renew the shift lever bushing so you dont have to revisit for replacing in the future. Its is an easy fix while you are there.

Agree. Will have to inspect carfully. Some of those parts look like they could be parts that need replaced but might not show obvious signs.

 

[a_gunslinger]

Havent had a chance to dismantle yet. But I do have a video showing the issue. Pushing park lever to left 1/8" makes everything happy and releases the key. BTW, gauges show as in park, but wont release the key until I push it that 1/8"

https://iplayerhd.com/player/video/f2e810f0-699a-4e5e-a4e2-30a037829e09/share

 

[sixto]

I might be playing the Capt Obvious role but I believe the shift lever position as displayed in the cluster is based on a switch in/at the transmission. Key release is based on a switch at the shifter unit. My money’s on the earlier post that wear, damage or misalignment in the shifter unit prevents proper contact between the shift lever and key release switch. Or maybe there’s a cable.

Sixto
‘04 LE FWD 198K miles

 

[a_gunslinger]

Logic sounds reasonable. And Im hoping an issue on the interior end is easier to fix than on tranny. Will report back if I can just get the time to open her up.

 

[a_gunslinger]

Ok. Results in. Same broken plastic part as that video above. See pix. I still have my metal shaft piece. Remaining questions.

1. Has anyone ever been able to find just that black plastic main shifter part? Seems to just have a large pin like the other two small ones for the cover. Assume guy in video looked around first.
   
   
2. When I uncovered it at first, the stel rod (rounded on top) was still in place, just leaning at a wonky angle. Suprised it did anything. Or does it have no funtion until all the way in park?
   
   
3. Strangest of all, if I take the metal part out altogether, it drives fine. Goes into revererse, into drive, and into park just fine? And in park, it releases the ignition key. What the heck does that peice actually do if the shifter works fine without it?
   
   
4. I have the small plastic piece that broke off. Could JB weld it on but see a few problems. If any JB Weld sqeezes thru to the interior, not sure I would be able to get the metal rod back in. And if I welded it in place it would joind the plastic to metal rod and that would prevent the rod from moving up and down. Its sits on a spring of some sort that has intentional verical movement as you shift thur the positions.
   
   
5. As per #4 above, if there is a spring in there needs to move up and down, is that what he drilled thru in his video? Not sure how he did that without compromising that spring action.
   

I would have paid Toyota an extra $100 to make that part metal =^/

 

[paul r]

He drilled through the plastic bore to accept the metal tube. ( K&S Precision Metals #87119) The spring fits in the metal tube and the "Pin/bullet" sits on top of the spring. The top of the bullet rides beneath a plate as shown in the video and I think the function of this pin is to help keep the lever in the selected position. I may be wrong here. After viewing the video I referenced in post #2 above I went to a pick and pull (Salvage yard they are called here in Miami) and got me a spare shift lever assembly for under 20 bucks which I now take with me on road trips. I also carry a spare bushing even though mine was renewed with one from Bushing fix. I use to see shift lever assemblies on ebay but I just checked and I did not see any listings.
Looking at the fix in the video one addtional step I would take is as you suggested would be to JB weld around the metal tube for additional strength.
How do you plan on fixing this? It appears to be no longer available !

 

[a_gunslinger]

Fortunately, there are some assemblies for sale on ebay. My issue is the pin/bullet won't stay put without thay broken piece of plastic. Im suprised it didbas designed as it only sits in there about 1/4" freely as it goes thru gears. And it's not a super tight fit, so it's no wonder that top edge of the plastic cracks over time.

I just need that large black plastic piece but may have to buy the entire assembly, and hope it's plug and play. I suspect if I grab one online or junk yard I would try and get latest year possible as many may already be starting to crack inside.

I just don't think jb welding that small piece of plastic will hold. Also considered seeing if I could get a very small screw type hose clamp around that glued in piece to help.

I guess even if it drives without that piece, having it not stay in her would not be good. May test that.

Will keep everyone posted. Welcome to all input.

 

[a_gunslinger]

"Looking at the fix in the video one addtional step I would take is as you suggested would be to JB weld around the metal tube for additional strength."

Not sure we can weld the actual metal pin, it needs to move up and down, albeit only a little.

 

[paul r]

Regarding the JB weld what I was suggesting is once the metal tube is in place , is to apply JB weld around the outside of the metal for further strenghtening. The inside of the tube would be free and clear allowing the pin and spring to move freely. Another idea is to wrap tightly the affected area (after the metal tube is in) with thin gauge wire then JB weld around that. Or even a small hose clamp , tighten it enough then spread JB weld around it to beef it up. Even as a preventative measure I think that would be a good idea on a good unit .

 

[a_gunslinger]

Got it. I think my confusion is that I wasn't planning on adding a tube like the video. I don't think I can pull that off. Was hoping just to repair and reinforce that hole the pun sits in. Or replace the assembly via ebay or junknyard.

 

[a_gunslinger]

UPDATE: Lots of info I hope will help others, and me.
I was able find a donor shift lever assembly at a local U-Pull and U-Pay lot (see pic A below) off a 2020 donor for $20. Alot of the good parts gone, but lever there! Was a 2010 and that plastic wasnt broken (and newer by 5 years so maybe 5 more yrs until it breaks). Also have a spare bushing should that become an issue like it is so for many. There were a bunch on ebay also but they were $75-150$.

At first I was just going to pull the large bottom pin that holds the main black plastic shifter piece (see B and C below) and replace just that entire plack piece compoentns. But I could not get that pin lock ring off for nothing (see D). So as I started to bend and damage it I realized that if I cant get this one off the one in my 2005 is going to be just as hard, and wasnt sure if once I got it off it would have enough integrity to be used again. Additionally, there seems to be a lock screw of some kind on the bottom of large black plastic shifter compoennt as well (see E). And I can imagine it has a very specific location that could be painful to replciate trying to swap them out. So going to just try and repalce the entire assembly. Hope to do that this weekend.

Remaining thoughts/questions:

1. Assuming this could happen again, do you think it would help to put a layer of JB Weld on the metal pins plastic weak spot (see F)?
   
   
2. Is there any precision adjustability to how the the shifter cable is attached to assembly? On my 2005, there are no markigns for how tight to tighted the cable screw top on the assembly. On the 2010 donor there are factory marks indicating soemthign (probably dont tighten the top screw cap beyond this point (see G).
   
   
3. When I put her all back together, do I need to be button her up in Park, or does it not matter?
   

Sorry for all the detail, but hoping this will help someoen else in the future.

 

[paul r]

For installation what I would do is put the shift lever in the van to the park position . Undo the cable at the attachment point on the assembly . I think I used a small screwdriver to lift the exposed wire securing the cable out of the recess . Hopefully you eyeballed how its done when you removed the "new" one at the yard and also how you are doing it now. Then remove the broken assembly , looks like 4 12mm bolts , all same lenghts. Install the good one making sure the lever is at the park position also. If not you will have to depress the small square button located to the left of the shift lever and move the lever to the park position. Then attach the cable ( hopfully the eye of the cable end lines up with the shaft where the bushing goes) If not you might have to rotate the adjustable ? part on the cable ( the part that has the yellow markings) Here I am not sure about so let us know how its done.
As far as beefing up the area where yours broke I think it might be a good idea . However in the park position that area is very close to a white plastic piece which is part of the manual override "plunger" assembly and I dont know what effect that might have , if any. Also make sure the little bulb works before buttoning things up. Keep us posted.

 

[Therbi]

Never installed a Sienna shifter but have done several other Toyota types. That one looks very odd to me.
The yellow mark is usually orientation. Like it should always face in whatever direction was specified. So before you took the newer cable off the donor just make sure it looks the same on yours.
As for install of Toyota shifters, usually its tranny in neutral, shifter in neutral, connect and lock.
Reason is alignment. If you dont do it in this order sometimes the alignment goes out. Meaning the shifter my say its in neutral but you're actually in reverse. Not a good thing.
The weird part for the Sienna, its the spring looking thing wrapped around the black part of the cable by the alignment mark. I would think that should be set to a floating position somehow so when you set the cable to the shifter it then somehow locks into place.