[slothman]

quite often an "engine flush" additive will cause other problems like leaks from the main sean, and leaks from the pan and other areas. USUALLY the engine flush products are ONLY used if you HEAR audible noises IE hydraulic lifters or other noises from the top end of the motor.

That being said, the 2 BEST options you have for motor "cleaning" would be marvel mystery oil, OR rislone engine treatment. You can research them but both are highly recommend and prosper amazing results.

Again, these products are usually used if your motor is making lighter tapping noises. If it's a deeper knocking or tappin. then your motor has serious issues,.

 

[slothman]

Probably an easier, lest costly way:
When you change your own oll, after removing oil drain plug and filter, wait a couple hours for it to fully drain. Then, before you put back the drain plug, pour into your oil intake maybe a half or so quart of new oil. (Lots of cars take 4.5 quarts or 5.5 quarts). Wait for that to drip thorough then put you plug and oil filter on.
If you have someone helping you, and you are down below, you can see the new oil "push out" the dirty old oil which was not removed. Its cheaper and faster. You can skip the waiting, too, but its better to wait until your oil all drains down. The idea is you have more nearly 100 percent new oil and only a very small portion of used oil inside your engine.

Doing this will not help with engine "sludge". The sludge sticks to the hydraulic lifters and oil passages caused by previous owners waiting to long for oil changes.

IMO there are 2 effective and safe ways to clean an engine if you notice/suspect the sludge.

The first is marvel mystery oil. Super effective, and proven to work. The other is an old school method, 1 quart of ATF with the remainder oil.

Both are proven ways to clear sludge and fix upper end noises or hydraulic lifters.

 

[slothman]

I am always concerned with engine or transmission flush, especially with additives.

with a transmission flush that means they hook up a pressure machine, and pump the fluid around. Of course, you never want to do that.

Most of the "engine flushes" are just a quart or two. Then you run the engine for 5 minutes. Drain everything, and then do a brand new oil change. Again, these methods sometimes cause leaks at the rear main seal. Not a good idea. You are better off using marvel mystery oil, or 1 quart ATF.

MMO has been around for AGES, and it works wonders at cleaning the engine.

 

[slothman]

The quick easy flush I described, above, wont "clear sludge", per se, but a constant wash in the cleanest oil possible, will. This is what this intends to accomplish by this simple method to make sure as much as possible of the "dirty" oil is flushed at oil change. When you pour in clean oil, it becomes slightly diluted with dirty oil, left in your engine at oil change, at your new oil change. Using the method I described, means there will be less dirty oil to dilute the clean oil. Its kinda like trying to wipe something clean with a very dirty soiled oily wrag..it does not work that well, but instead spreads dirt all over the surfaces you intend to clean. Instead, wipe it off with as clean a wrag as possible.
In the same way, the method, above, cleans at least SOME of the dirty oil left in your engine at oil change. Disassembling the engine, of course, would allow a full sludge removal.

A family member, with extensive motor cycle racing experience, recommends Amsoil. I did check the Amsoil website, where the sludge removal is documented, by actual engines broken down after use, along with otther testing procedures.

I found no such oil testing results at Marvel Mystery Oil. While test results can be manipulated, these third party oil tests did demonstrate that my cousin's opinion on the value of Amsoil was spot on.

Instead of relying upon anecdotal evidence "My uncle said this brand of oil was best, so it has to be the best", I prefer documented comparison testing. While car companies dont recommend oil additives, such as Marvel Mystery oil, Amsoil products are good enough so that you warranty is still in force after using Amsoil at oil change instead of other brands. Indeed, the lubrication engineers which work for the car companies, review the tests. As far as I know, none of the major car companies recommend oil additives, but do provide lubricant quality specificiations, supported by testing.

For my vehicles, I will do what the engineers recommend, as opposed to ancedotal evidence. For that reason, I dont use oil additives.

Amsoil is one of the best. Totally agree on that. I have been using that oil for years. However, just by using amsoil, you aren't going to cure any engine noises. The detergents in the oil are just very slow acting.

Marvel is used when the problems arise. IE: hydraulic lifter noises or upper cylinder noises. Dirty valves, sticky piston rings, low compression issues, etc. Of course car companies don't want Marvel involved. That want the car in the dealership, being "fixed" for thousands of dollars lolol.

I know MMO isn't a "snake oil" because I have seen it cure problems with my own eyes and ears. And thousands of people online also have proof. I am not saying to use MMO every single oil change. The Marvel should only be used as a last ditch effort before pulling a motor to fix the problem. For $6, it sure as hell worth a shot. And it works many many times.