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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when the van is given full gas or uphill with partial i vibrates or shakes. the tires are not the problem
the van has 143k miles
the axles have some grease being expelled(inboard.)
could the inboard cv joints be bad? it seems to be getting worse
thanks
my rack and pinion boot is ripped so i would like to do all at once
 

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when the van is given full gas or uphill with partial i vibrates or shakes. the tires are not the problem
the van has 143k miles
the axles have some grease being expelled(inboard.)
could the inboard cv joints be bad? it seems to be getting worse
thanks
my rack and pinion boot is ripped so i would like to do all at once
Classic passenger side axle failure mode. Replace it and the vibration will go away.
 

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In my case it was probably driver side axle.

Don't go just by static axle testing, like pulling on the joints to check for play. I had two shops "check" the axles and tell me they were fine. One of these was the dealer, with their "master technician" weighing in on the problem. I crawled under and yanked on the axle myself to check for play in the inner joint where I had seen grease. Nope, no play. In the end, replacing the axles fixed the vibration.

If you can get someone to put it on something like a dynamometer where they can give it gas while it's stationary, they may be able to see the axle vibrating.

Some people recommend doing both at once, so you may want to do both of them. Especially if they're both leaking grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In my case it was probably driver side axle.

Don't go just by static axle testing, like pulling on the joints to check for play. I had two shops "check" the axles and tell me they were fine. One of these was the dealer, with their "master technician" weighing in on the problem. I crawled under and yanked on the axle myself to check for play in the inner joint where I had seen grease. Nope, no play. In the end, replacing the axles fixed the vibration.

If you can get someone to put it on something like a dynamometer where they can give it gas while it's stationary, they may be able to see the axle vibrating.

Some people recommend doing both at once, so you may want to do both of them. Especially if they're both leaking grease.
Is autozone parts ok. It's getting worse and worse and my Thanksgiving will be spent fixing them. If not autozone where should I get them or what brand
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
What about cardone from rock auto




In my case it was probably driver side axle.

Don't go just by static axle testing, like pulling on the joints to check for play. I had two shops "check" the axles and tell me they were fine. One of these was the dealer, with their "master technician" weighing in on the problem. I crawled under and yanked on the axle myself to check for play in the inner joint where I had seen grease. Nope, no play. In the end, replacing the axles fixed the vibration.

If you can get someone to put it on something like a dynamometer where they can give it gas while it's stationary, they may be able to see the axle vibrating.
Or the cardone ones from rock auto
Just went under the driver side axle has grease everywhere. Both boos on driver side
I really did not need this
 

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A couple points...

I've read people in FL, Southern CA and NV have an easy time replacing the passenger side CV. For the rest of us, the axle will be seized into the carrier bearing bracket and the only way to remove the bracket is if you can get the axle out of the way or have a specially-tweaked wrench which has been heated, bent, and ground down somewhat to be extra skinny. Step one just requires pulling it with your hand to see if you're lucky. Step 2 involves trying to break it free with a pry bar. Step 3 involves trying to drive it out with an air chisel and step 4 involves using a carbide saw to slowly cut through the axle just inboard next to the bracket and, when the inboard section is removed, you hit the remaining nub with a 4-lb. sledge, which is impossible to do without a LOT of clearance. If your van is like mine, it requires an alternate step 4. I spent about 5 hours trying steps 1-3 and finally gave up and called a mechanic the next day. They did step 4, beating and destroying it and STILL couldn't get it free. Finally, they actually cut the bracket into pieces with a cutting torch. Personally, if it were me, I would just subvert the entire process and pay the mechanic to do it the first time, unless you're one of those lucky ones to have tons of climate-controlled space with a full-height lift with all the tools and no one to bother you while you work.

The tie rod boot being ripped is either a bad thing or an even worse thing. It doesn't typically "tear." It typically disintegrates from exposure to fluid leaked from the rack. The shredded boot is typically a sign that your rack seals are leaking. Occasionally, a PS fluid flush with aftermarket fluid with leak-stop additives can stop the leak for months or even years, but the potential is still there. You will want to check the level every week or two, just so it doesn't end up running dry. Additionally, the shredded boot can mean that the tie rod joint has been contaminated by road grid and will be particularly work. I would consider the possibility or replacement of the tie rods and, in a worst-case scenario, a replacement of the steering rack.

With vibration and the boot issue, you will want to inspect the whole front end (ball joints, control arms, motor mounts, struts, tie rods, sway bar links and sway bar bushings) and see what's worn out and needs replacement. If you have to replace any of it, you're doing most of the work already anyway. Additionally, since you're mostly removing the knuckle, you might also want to do the wheel bearings replaced at the same time, just so you don't have to do it at some point later.

Lastly, after doing the half-shaft, you will need an alignment no matter what.
 

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Is autozone parts ok. It's getting worse and worse and my Thanksgiving will be spent fixing them. If not autozone where should I get them or what brand
I am not even remotely an expert on these things.

I've had a lot of people tell me that OE (aka, Toyota) axles are superior to aftermarket axles.

Because of that, and since my van is lifted and the aftermarket warranties didn't cover modified suspension, I used OE axles.

In a lot of cases, it might not matter. Many aftermarket axles come with limited lifetime warranties.

If you're doing the work yourself, I recommend checking the warranty.

If you're getting a shop to do it, ask them what axles they use and what is the warranty on parts and labor. Shop around until you find a repair shop that will stand by the warranty of their parts.

Either way, you may want to do the axle transmission seals at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got the new axles. 1 from autozone the other rock auto(cardone)
I removed the bolt holding bearing in place today and sprayed pb blaster in there.
Put nut back in
I also sprayed all around the bearing .then ill take it for a 50 mile drive. Go to my garage. Pull the bolt out and drive 10 miles at a slow speed with hopes it lossen it up if its rusted.im hoping to do both tomorrow.
Just found out my vvt -i line has rubber and not metal so imma see if they warranty it srems i have until 31 dec 2021
 

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Either way, you may want to do the axle transmission seals at the same time.
This is good advice, ask me how I know!!!
 

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If you have an Advance this axle worked well for me
..And if you go to retailmenot dot com search for advance auto in the search field and discounts of varying amounts will populate !!
 
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