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Wanted to throw a hail mary and see if anyone can help me out before I give up and take tow to a mechanic. I'll give the full story for background.
I was driving along and all the sudden various lights and systems started failing to the point where radio died, traction control, power steering and so on, so I was able to pull over before and let it run popping the hood to see what I could see before it fully died on me. I had the lady come over and we attempted a jump, which was likely a mistake because the battery was arcing sparking (was connected correctly) and couldn't get it to turn over. Wires were getting hot and I thought I saw smoke puff from the alternator, so disconnected and ended up getting towed home with AAA.
Tried using a buddies car jumper etc. after a few days which looked like it was malfunctioning but we later figured it was due to the alternator shorting and pulling all the power. In the meatime took my battery to interstate to charge and test and came back good. Reconnected, because I'm a slow learner, and noticed we still had it sparking on connection and a puff of smoke from alternator, so disconnected quickly. Disconnected the power from alternator and the wiring harness connection and reconnected battery and tried to turn over, but nothing happened. Reconnected the wiring harness to alternator and left power disconnected and was able to get to turn over, but not start. I figured my alternator was shorting out so finally got to work removing it and had it tested which failed, so I installed a new one along with a new serpentine belt since I was already there. Connected it all up and turned the key and would turn over (also no more sparking or power draw or smoke, yay), but not start. Decided to start pulling codes so got a OBD2 reader and you can see the codes in the thread title.
My worry is that all my battery connecting and jump attempts especially originally when the jumpers got hot while the alternator was shorting out either fried all of my ignition coils or fried (seeing that each is throwing a code) or my ECM/ECU is not sending signals to fire. I would expect it would be more likely the ECM/ECU, but figured I should go the route of trying to test the individual coils.
My knowledge is limited as if that wasn't obvious, but I've tried to teach myself some basics over the years. Anybody that can give some knowledgeable advice is welcome, especially on how to go about testing the coils. I've seen videos using the spark testers, but if the ECM/ECU isn't sending signals they would always test bad or it would be inconclusive anyway. I've also scene people testing the resistance of the ignition coils, but haven't been able to find an exact match for the coils in the 2011 Sienna which have 4 prongs/wires I believe rather than 2.
Also if I determine those are good, or likely to be good, replacing the ECM/ECU is daunting because it sounds like I would then have to flash or re-program it and/or program the immobilizer and I'm not sure if the videos I've seen with connecting pin #4 and #13 for half an hour applies to a 2011 Sienna either. Not sure if the immobilizer is onboard the ECM/ECU or as a separate unit.
I was driving along and all the sudden various lights and systems started failing to the point where radio died, traction control, power steering and so on, so I was able to pull over before and let it run popping the hood to see what I could see before it fully died on me. I had the lady come over and we attempted a jump, which was likely a mistake because the battery was arcing sparking (was connected correctly) and couldn't get it to turn over. Wires were getting hot and I thought I saw smoke puff from the alternator, so disconnected and ended up getting towed home with AAA.
Tried using a buddies car jumper etc. after a few days which looked like it was malfunctioning but we later figured it was due to the alternator shorting and pulling all the power. In the meatime took my battery to interstate to charge and test and came back good. Reconnected, because I'm a slow learner, and noticed we still had it sparking on connection and a puff of smoke from alternator, so disconnected quickly. Disconnected the power from alternator and the wiring harness connection and reconnected battery and tried to turn over, but nothing happened. Reconnected the wiring harness to alternator and left power disconnected and was able to get to turn over, but not start. I figured my alternator was shorting out so finally got to work removing it and had it tested which failed, so I installed a new one along with a new serpentine belt since I was already there. Connected it all up and turned the key and would turn over (also no more sparking or power draw or smoke, yay), but not start. Decided to start pulling codes so got a OBD2 reader and you can see the codes in the thread title.
My worry is that all my battery connecting and jump attempts especially originally when the jumpers got hot while the alternator was shorting out either fried all of my ignition coils or fried (seeing that each is throwing a code) or my ECM/ECU is not sending signals to fire. I would expect it would be more likely the ECM/ECU, but figured I should go the route of trying to test the individual coils.
My knowledge is limited as if that wasn't obvious, but I've tried to teach myself some basics over the years. Anybody that can give some knowledgeable advice is welcome, especially on how to go about testing the coils. I've seen videos using the spark testers, but if the ECM/ECU isn't sending signals they would always test bad or it would be inconclusive anyway. I've also scene people testing the resistance of the ignition coils, but haven't been able to find an exact match for the coils in the 2011 Sienna which have 4 prongs/wires I believe rather than 2.
Also if I determine those are good, or likely to be good, replacing the ECM/ECU is daunting because it sounds like I would then have to flash or re-program it and/or program the immobilizer and I'm not sure if the videos I've seen with connecting pin #4 and #13 for half an hour applies to a 2011 Sienna either. Not sure if the immobilizer is onboard the ECM/ECU or as a separate unit.
