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Right but I wanted an estimate. I'd definitely just swap out the existing wheels for .. some kind of rim that doesn't look like a dollar store chrome toy. 😭
Different rims have different cost profiles. Cheap rims you can get a set of 20s for probably $250-300/wheel + $700-1000 for tires. A good quality set will run you $500 per wheel and up from there depending on brand, forged vs cast vs monoblock vs 3 piece, etc.

If all you want is to change up the look from the factory chrome plastic garbage you might have better luck scouring Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used set.
 

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I went with whatever the local shop had on hand. $950 for a set of four non-hideous rims.. worth it. No tire change.

I was going to go with chrome since a lot of the vehicle is blue/chrome but not many silver options in rims.. so the store guy recommended black and it's good?

View attachment 51204


View attachment 51205

(I installed the mudflaps as well, pretty easy!)

But man. I can finally sleep at night. Those factory chrome plastic rims were just H I D E O US.
Black looks sharp on that color for sure. Better than chrome.
 

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Hub rings are nothing to be feared.

The plastic ones are just fine and they'll never crack as long as wheels are not over torqued and the wheel bearing is not shot, as the hub rings are not load bearing with a proper mounting of the wheel.

You just set them on the hub before you mount the wheel. Keeps the wheel centered on the hub since most aftermarket wheels will be a different size than your hub.
 

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So I've run into a snag. Wheel rep is saying I'll need a 245/45R20, as the XSE OEM size 235/50R20 will be too tall(??) on the forged 8" wheels. Basically if I had an XSE FWD, I wouldn't be able to re-use the 20" tires because the wheels are .5" wider. Doesn't make any sense to me, but then again I'm not a wheel expert.

There's not many LRR tire options as it is and I really wanted to stay OEM tire size. If it comes down to it and I have to switch to get these wheels, has anyone noticed a significant difference in MPG when it comes to switching to a non-LRR tire?
Doesn't make any sense. If anything stretching a tire on a wider rim makes it shorter, not taller. You'll be fine with reusing the same tire. 235 will mount an 8" rim just fine. Hell I am running a 225 on a 9" rim on my sedan.
 

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Anyone know how strict dealerships/Toyota is when it comes to aftermarket wheels, especially when I'm upsizing from 17 to 20". Sales rep just called me to let me know my van arrived, and I told him I was bugging him every other day because I'm trying to get eyes on my van before I finalize this BC Forged order. Then he hit me with the warranty void statement. I didn't have an issue on the last vehicle I put wheels on, since I stayed OEM at 19", serviced for 5 years at deerskin with no issues even for warranty/wearable with my maintenance contract.

Anyone have any stories or experience with Toyota on this? Magnusson-Moss is great and all, doesn't mean they still won't give you a big headache trying to get warranty work.
It should not void the warranty unless they can prove that whatever issue you need remediated occurred due to your use of the aftermarket wheels. There is nothing that can happen unless you botch your wheel install. An example would be if you buy wheels that are not hubcentric, fail to use hub rings, over torque the lug nuts, and end up with snapped studs or warped wheel bearings. These things would then not be covered. If you do all of that and your fuel pump gives out, the fuel pump is still covered under warranty because it is not affected by the wheels on the vehicle. Obviously the wheels you buy are warrantied independently and not by the dealer, whereas OEM wheels would be warrantied by Toyota (from defects, not damage unless you buy the wheel/tire warranty sold separately). Tires in either scenario are warrantied by the tire manufacturer.

I've been putting aftermarket wheels on all my new cars for the last 20 years, never once had a warranty claim denied on account of not having OEM wheels/tires.
 
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