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Except for the literally thousands of people who have done exactly that.

Again, many many people have done exactly this. There’s just no aftermarket option yet for AWD models.

I also live in Iowa and I’m convinced that your thermometer is broken.

You really don’t. Climate system works fine. Too many people just don’t read the manual and mistakenly keep it in Eco mode on those mythical 105 degree 100% humidity Iowa days instead of setting it to normal so it can keep up with the temp differential btw the outside and inside.

There is no such charge. It’s included free. For 10 years on majority of trims.

For someone who reads so much, you sure do have a lot of misconceptions and errant claims.

Either way, if you don’t want one, then cool. That leaves one more available for others who are literally waiting 6 months or more on average to get one. ✌

The Rear suspension on the AWD is exactly the same as the FWD. Exactly. I have looked at them side by side, as well as checked part numbers. the lower trailing arms are exactly the same, as are the springs. The airbags for the FWD work on the AWD just fine. I have them, and i have an AWD.

As far as the remote start goes, he is correct here. if you don't subscribe to the toyota remote connect services, the remote start from the FOB will not work. Toyota has backed off some, but the car itself does a server check to see if you are subscribed, and if you are not, the car won't turn on or start. Both my 21 Sienna LE and 20 HiHy platinum will work without the subscription, but this is simply because I raised the concern with my state AG about post sale feature removal, and toyota literally turned on my remote start capability for my two vehicles for 10 years or until I sell them(AKA, that remote start won't transfer to a new owner). But only for me, and only because I complained. My MILs new 20 camry had her subscription run out mid winter, and it would not start from the fob. she was pissed.

Also, despite the popular belief, the base model LE does indeed have the cell transmitter for the remote services. all vans do, its part of the infotainment control computer. Toyota collets a massive amount of data about your driving and the vehicle, so why would they opt to not put that capability in the lower cheaper trims?

with the remote start thing, im sure as soon as the media trail and AG complaints die out, they will be removing the remote start functionality to a majority of their customers, and those customers will never notice. Toyota has not made any official announcements about what you state regarding the support for 10 years on the remote start without a subscription. in fact, their own response to my complaint literally used weasel words to try and get out of responsibility for their blatant misrepresentations of how the system works.
 

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We’ll then I guess me and all the others who’ve confirmed it actually does even after letting services expire are just lucky.

like I said, I have a direct, litigation based answer from toyota's legal department(that I cannot discuss the entire details of, but its a bit more than just "its on for you"). There is nothing stopping toyota from disabling it overnight or whenever they feel like it, they are just not doing it right now because of the fear of public backlash. My MIL's quit working after her subscription ran out. they would not reenable it for the "10 years". They specifically mentioned my sienna which was bought after the complaint was filed, and included that in the "turned on for 10 years for you", even though they clarify that it was not included nor advertised with it, and that normally it would quit working once the subscription runs out. There is literally no official support or statement from TMSUSA about them letting it stay on for 10 years, they are simply leaving it working right now, but I suspect that will change in a year or two because recurring income is the golden nugget that all these companies are chasing.
 

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I read somewhere that as long as you have any "free trial" service in place, the fob remote start will remain functional. For most Siennas, I believe that this is ten years since Service Connect is on free trial for that long. I have not looked in detail, but I believe this leaves out the LE models because Service Connect is not included.
 

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My 2022 Sienna is getting only 27 mpg after the first 1,000 miles. I paid a premium for my license registration in Ohio because I was driving a hybrid And thought I would be getting much higher mpg as advertised. Any suggestion?
I'm surprised too. Any driving at 75 or higher on highway, and it gets below 30 MPG, and in the city, my wife gets around 27. Really surprising and disappointing.
 

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I'm surprised too. Any driving at 75 or higher on highway, and it gets below 30 MPG, and in the city, my wife gets around 27. Really surprising and disappointing.
Any vehicle driving 75 or over is going to see a significant reduction in MPG, that's just a fact. I just went over 10,000 miles in my '21 XSE FWD. I am averaging 33.62 with a high of 40.5 (August/Sept) and a low of 25.69 (Feb/Mar w/ Winter gas, lots of remote starts to warm it up). Coming from a vehicle that was lucky to break into the 20s (2018 Chevy Silverado 4x4) I'm quite happy. I have noticed my best mileage is tooling around town. My worst is interstate, especially going 75mph. 65 and below, it does pretty good.

If your wife is only getting 27 driving around the city, it's her, not the van.
 

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I'm surprised too. Any driving at 75 or higher on highway, and it gets below 30 MPG, and in the city, my wife gets around 27. Really surprising and disappointing.
The way to improve mileage in the city is to brake gently to take the maximum advantage of regeneration. If you drive at 35mph and then wait until the last second to stop for a light, most of the energy is dissipated by the friction brakes. Try coasting up to lights/stops and gently depressing the brake pedal early.
 

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I'm surprised too. Any driving at 75 or higher on highway, and it gets below 30 MPG, and in the city, my wife gets around 27. Really surprising and disappointing.

My .02, check individual trip mileage. It will help figure out costly trips or a bit of pedal heavy drivers.

You may have to disable rear-child-seat reminder. Trip mileage shows up after you turn it off, but before opening any doors.
 

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Any vehicle driving 75 or over is going to see a significant reduction in MPG, that's just a fact. I just went over 10,000 miles in my '21 XSE FWD. I am averaging 33.62 with a high of 40.5 (August/Sept) and a low of 25.69 (Feb/Mar w/ Winter gas, lots of remote starts to warm it up). Coming from a vehicle that was lucky to break into the 20s (2018 Chevy Silverado 4x4) I'm quite happy. I have noticed my best mileage is tooling around town. My worst is interstate, especially going 75mph. 65 and below, it does pretty good.

If your wife is only getting 27 driving around the city, it's her, not the van.
Exactly, To get the sticker rating 36mpg or higher, have to keep it at max of about 65mph. I got 39.0 mpg Boston-NY highway run at a steady 60-65.

My last tank I only got 28 in town only. alot of idling with AC on in the 95-99 degree days here. Again, my old 2014 V6 Sienna AWD would been lucky to get 16 in same driving.
 

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Republicans are owned by the oil industry. They hate EV and hybrids.
Yes, Elon Musk can't stand EV's .... that's why in 2022 he has already gotten rid of like a million of them :)

Also, if one is going to discuss political aspects of automotive industry development in a thoughtful way, is there a benefit in using soundbites like "X hates Y"?

My 2022 Sienna is getting only 27 mpg after the first 1,000 miles. I paid a premium for my license registration in Ohio because I was driving a hybrid And thought I would be getting much higher mpg as advertised. Any suggestion?
I haven't read the whole thread, but here is the list of things that will negatively affect your mpgs in a consequential way. Interestingly, most of these factors apply to all kinds of automotive propulsion:

All vehicles:

1. Cold weather
2. Poor road conditions, e.g. precipitation
3. Multiple short trips with enough time between them to cool the engine/traction battery down
4. Assertive driving style

Specifically ICE vehicles:

1. Winter gasoline blend
2. Not all brands of gasoline "come out of the same pipeline". This is subjective of course, but I tend to look out for Exxon and Mobile stations, if I can help it.
3. Idling the car to make and/or keep it warm

If you ever make country road trips, let's say 1 hour at 45-50 mph average, driven at an even speed and on a relatively flat terray, you may want to record your mpg's and see if they are still in the below 30 range. If you can't get good mpg's no matter what, perhaps it would be good to run emissions inspection, because IMO an ICE car that doens't burn the gasoline efficiently will also spew out a lot of unburned fuel, which such test should detect.
 

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I say we all meet somewhere in mid north US and do several one hour routes. JK.

That would give us good information on what mileage possible. The lowest MPG driver then switches with the highest MPG driver to rule out driving style.

Would suggest double blind study but that does not work when driving!! :)
 

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BTW, we have been vigorously posting in this thread for 10 months, and no-one - not a soul - has ever asked what the heck "MOG" is????? I know that Mercedes makes the Unimog, but it's not poor. Ministry Of Goodness? Mean-Or-Generous? Move Over, Golem?
 

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BTW, we have been vigorously posting in this thread for 10 months, and no-one - not a soul - has ever asked what the heck "MOG" is????? I know that Mercedes makes the Unimog, but it's not poor. Ministry Of Goodness? Mean-Or-Generous? Move Over, Golem?
I think it's just a typo. MPG and since "O" and "P" are right next to each other, it's easy to mistype. I know my fingers are certainly not delicate. Happens all the time! I think that's what happened in that case.
 

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I am trying to buy a Sienna Platinum, have been on a list since Feb 2022.

Replacing an 08 Odyssey, if I am lucky I get 15mpg. I'd be THRILLED with 27

I drive an Accord Hybrid with 50k miles on it. I see a solid 10mpg loss in winter with cold batteries, winter fuel and snow tires. Yours will do much better in summer.
 

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Not the lightest when speed limits are 70 mph. I go 75.
here is why you get bad MPGs. the van drops mileage like a stone when you get above 65. at 55mph, I easily get 40mpg on the highway in the summer. at 65, its down to 35, and then at 70 its down to 30, and at 75 its down to 27. once you hit 80 tho, it goes to like 22mpg. the gearing of the van's final drive, plus the gearing of the power split device in the transmission are really optimized for 50 to 60mph. above that, you are now spinning MG1 so hard overdriven that its costing you a lot of power that has to be taken from creating drag on MG2.
 

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here is why you get bad MPGs. the van drops mileage like a stone when you get above 65. at 55mph, I easily get 40mpg on the highway in the summer. at 65, its down to 35, and then at 70 its down to 30, and at 75 its down to 27. once you hit 80 tho, it goes to like 22mpg. the gearing of the van's final drive, plus the gearing of the power split device in the transmission are really optimized for 50 to 60mph. above that, you are now spinning MG1 so hard overdriven that its costing you a lot of power that has to be taken from creating drag on MG2.
This is someone else's quote. Not sure how it got here. I do not go 75 in a 70 mph zone and I get 37+ mpg in Dec and Jan, so I am not complaining either :)
 
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