What would be ideal is stainless cable ,now that would last a long time.
2nd gen Sliding door cable Fix - Potential idea
i still havent been able to source out a part number for the infamous cable spool that breaks due to crappy sheathing, cheap rusted cable.
i went to star toyota here in queens and they are just a bunch of a-holes. nobody seems to care other than the fact they say that they dont sell the standalone spool for the power door cable. i said, that the part exists, try harder. they claim that all their customers simply get it fixed from dealer and nobody buys any parts. whatever.
here is some inspiration for folks who are handy.
http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/i-fixed-power-door.html
what i did so far is went to home dpot and bought around 12 ft of 1/16" cable without the sheathing. our cable is thinner gauge than the previous 1st gen sienna. 3/32" seems to be too thick. they sell 1/16" also but with a green vinyl wrap, although that too seems too thick.
unfortunately, the 1/16" cable is only galvanized, but without insulation. that means if we were to put in a new cable, we will still be exposed to the elements. what im thinking about doing is using heat shrink tube from a big spool. this way, the cable will be the right size for the roller and the motor spool.
follow the instructions from polifrog with the ferrut clamping, and we will probably be good.
if i finish this succesfully, i'll post pics and a write up, as this is only an idea in the works.
i went to star toyota here in queens and they are just a bunch of a-holes. nobody seems to care other than the fact they say that they dont sell the standalone spool for the power door cable. i said, that the part exists, try harder. they claim that all their customers simply get it fixed from dealer and nobody buys any parts. whatever.
here is some inspiration for folks who are handy.
http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/i-fixed-power-door.html
what i did so far is went to home dpot and bought around 12 ft of 1/16" cable without the sheathing. our cable is thinner gauge than the previous 1st gen sienna. 3/32" seems to be too thick. they sell 1/16" also but with a green vinyl wrap, although that too seems too thick.
unfortunately, the 1/16" cable is only galvanized, but without insulation. that means if we were to put in a new cable, we will still be exposed to the elements. what im thinking about doing is using heat shrink tube from a big spool. this way, the cable will be the right size for the roller and the motor spool.
follow the instructions from polifrog with the ferrut clamping, and we will probably be good.
if i finish this succesfully, i'll post pics and a write up, as this is only an idea in the works.
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
yes, you're right. s.steel does not rust...
home depot does not sell these cables.
but grainger does. grainger.com
i may buy a spool for 18 bux. even though i only need $3.00 worth of cable from home depot, 18 bux is still cheaper than a 400 dollar spool from toyota that i dont even know what part number it is.
home depot does not sell these cables.
but grainger does. grainger.com
i may buy a spool for 18 bux. even though i only need $3.00 worth of cable from home depot, 18 bux is still cheaper than a 400 dollar spool from toyota that i dont even know what part number it is.
Thanks for the How to instructions, will try this next week.
200kmax said:i still havent been able to source out a part number for the infamous cable spool that breaks due to crappy sheathing, cheap rusted cable.
i went to star toyota here in queens and they are just a bunch of a-holes. nobody seems to care other than the fact they say that they dont sell the standalone spool for the power door cable. i said, that the part exists, try harder. they claim that all their customers simply get it fixed from dealer and nobody buys any parts. whatever.
here is some inspiration for folks who are handy.
http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/i-fixed-power-door.htmltirescars
what i did so far is went to home dpot and bought around 12 ft of 1/16" cable without the sheathing. our cable is thinner gauge than the previous 1st gen sienna. 3/32" seems to be too thick. they sell 1/16" also but with a green vinyl wrap, although that too seems too thick.
unfortunately, the 1/16" cable is only galvanized, but without insulation. that means if we were to put in a new cable, we will still be exposed to the elements. what im thinking about doing is using heat shrink tube from a big spool. this way, the cable will be the right size for the roller and the motor spool.
follow the instructions from polifrog with the ferrut clamping, and we will probably be good.
if i finish this succesfully, i'll post pics and a write up, as this is only an idea in the works.
I had good luck with bicycle hydraulic brake cable. Got to a bike store and ask for 2 cables for a tandem bike disc brakes. The reason for the tandem is that it will be long enough as the standard length for this wire is only 1.7 meters and you need about 1.8 meters.
The stuff I got was produced by Jagwire (USA) and is stainless steel and teflon impregnated/coated. It is 1.5 mm in diameter and 2.4 meters long, costing about $7.00 each. It is slightly smaller than the original 1.6 mm cable but should be stronger and resist corrosion well. It also has a swaged end which works perfectly in the tensioner pieces with the addition of a small washer. The rest of the cable can be fed around the center pulley and down through the door cable housing and then mated to the spool piece by cutting to size and adding a swaged or crimped stop on the end. All that needs to be removed is the door panel, the center hinge (which intefreres with putting the cables on the pulley's, the rear trim piece hiding the rear tnesionber bracket and the actual spool assembly itself, which is held on by three screws to the motor clutch housing. The hardest part is getting the spool with the tensioned and wound cable back into the housing.
Three hours of fiddling and 15 dollars later, voila! the door worked like new. This assumes that your spool housing did not detonate, which is a function of not disabling the motor with the dash switch immediately after the cable breaks.
The stuff I got was produced by Jagwire (USA) and is stainless steel and teflon impregnated/coated. It is 1.5 mm in diameter and 2.4 meters long, costing about $7.00 each. It is slightly smaller than the original 1.6 mm cable but should be stronger and resist corrosion well. It also has a swaged end which works perfectly in the tensioner pieces with the addition of a small washer. The rest of the cable can be fed around the center pulley and down through the door cable housing and then mated to the spool piece by cutting to size and adding a swaged or crimped stop on the end. All that needs to be removed is the door panel, the center hinge (which intefreres with putting the cables on the pulley's, the rear trim piece hiding the rear tnesionber bracket and the actual spool assembly itself, which is held on by three screws to the motor clutch housing. The hardest part is getting the spool with the tensioned and wound cable back into the housing.
Three hours of fiddling and 15 dollars later, voila! the door worked like new. This assumes that your spool housing did not detonate, which is a function of not disabling the motor with the dash switch immediately after the cable breaks.
heat shrink tubing
The purpose of heat shrink tubing is to also guard wires and small parts from damage. The combining and fixing wires also happens when needed.
heat shrink tubing
The purpose of heat shrink tubing is to also guard wires and small parts from damage. The combining and fixing wires also happens when needed.
heat shrink tubing
Re: heat shrink tubing
For those of that do need the part numbers for the spool and cable only:
The Right Door Part is: 69631-08030
The Left Door Part is: 69641-08030
The TSB that lists these part numbers and illustrates how to replace the spool assembly is attached. I do have the PDF for swapping the actual motors out There is actually enough information to remove the entire door from the vehicle, but this is not necessary. That PDF is too large to post, but I can e-mail it.
Our repaired door is doing great after 2 years, including winters. Of note the TSB mentions that subsequent improvements were made to the assembly. Thanks Toyota for not doing a recall, even though you acknowledged a problem that required a subsequent design fix.
Hope that this helps!
For those of that do need the part numbers for the spool and cable only:
The Right Door Part is: 69631-08030
The Left Door Part is: 69641-08030
The TSB that lists these part numbers and illustrates how to replace the spool assembly is attached. I do have the PDF for swapping the actual motors out There is actually enough information to remove the entire door from the vehicle, but this is not necessary. That PDF is too large to post, but I can e-mail it.
Our repaired door is doing great after 2 years, including winters. Of note the TSB mentions that subsequent improvements were made to the assembly. Thanks Toyota for not doing a recall, even though you acknowledged a problem that required a subsequent design fix.
Hope that this helps!
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Re: heat shrink tubing
I just called a toyota dealership and gave them this part number-- seems it comes with the motor and is over $1k!!! anyone else have any luck?? our door broke the other day and i'm freaking out over the apparent cost of this.
I just called a toyota dealership and gave them this part number-- seems it comes with the motor and is over $1k!!! anyone else have any luck?? our door broke the other day and i'm freaking out over the apparent cost of this.
Re: heat shrink tubing
Then they are a stealership. If you look up the part numbers from post #7 at a online part place like www.toyotapartsales.com you will find the part at about $450:I just called a toyota dealership and gave them this part number-- seems it comes with the motor and is over $1k!!! anyone else have any luck?? our door broke the other day and i'm freaking out over the apparent cost of this.
| Item Number | MSRP | Core Price | Price |
| 6963108030 | $592.00 | $0.00 | $444.89 |
CONTROL SLIDE DR AT |
Success! At least for now...2006 Sienna, busted cable. Followed online advice, replaced cable on spool, everything working now. My only worry is a possibly crappy swaged end, but if it fails I'll focus on that and I know at least in theory this fix works (if done right). Thanks for the advice, folks!
See recent post in 2nd gen section by Narboza about Toyota extending warranty on sliding door parts.
Re: heat shrink tubing
can you email me the larger PDF you're referring to? I am about to undertake the repair. Thanks!!! gemmerda (at) gmail (dot) com
can you email me the larger PDF you're referring to? I am about to undertake the repair. Thanks!!! gemmerda (at) gmail (dot) com
<gemmerda> are you not covered by the warranty extension http://www.siennachat.com/forum/64-...arranty-coverage-rear-sliding-door-parts.html
I think I may give this a go. Gotta call around and see who has some of this stuff....I had good luck with bicycle hydraulic brake cable. Got to a bike store and ask for 2 cables for a tandem bike disc brakes. The reason for the tandem is that it will be long enough as the standard length for this wire is only 1.7 meters and you need about 1.8 meters.
The stuff I got was produced by Jagwire (USA) and is stainless steel and teflon impregnated/coated. It is 1.5 mm in diameter and 2.4 meters long, costing about $7.00 each. It is slightly smaller than the original 1.6 mm cable but should be stronger and resist corrosion well. It also has a swaged end which works perfectly in the tensioner pieces with the addition of a small washer. The rest of the cable can be fed around the center pulley and down through the door cable housing and then mated to the spool piece by cutting to size and adding a swaged or crimped stop on the end. All that needs to be removed is the door panel, the center hinge (which intefreres with putting the cables on the pulley's, the rear trim piece hiding the rear tnesionber bracket and the actual spool assembly itself, which is held on by three screws to the motor clutch housing. The hardest part is getting the spool with the tensioned and wound cable back into the housing.
Three hours of fiddling and 15 dollars later, voila! the door worked like new. This assumes that your spool housing did not detonate, which is a function of not disabling the motor with the dash switch immediately after the cable breaks.
I think this is what I need:
Jagwire
Mountain Brake Inner Wires - Teflon Coated
P/N 94TC2750
1.5mm Teflon® Slick Stainless
(Mechanical Disc Brake)
2750mm
SRAM® / Shimano® MTB
37.9g
http://jagwireusa.com/images/uploads/2011_JAGWIRE_CATALOG.pdf
Re: heat shrink tubing
Can someone tell me how you install the pulley/cable assembly when the ends of the cables are attached to the tensioners at the end? I don't see how this is possible. Has anyone actually ordered this part?For those of that do need the part numbers for the spool and cable only:The Right Door Part is: 69631-08030The Left Door Part is: 69641-08030The TSB that lists these part numbers and illustrates how to replace the spool assembly is attached. I do have the PDF for swapping the actual motors out There is actually enough information to remove the entire door from the vehicle, but this is not necessary. That PDF is too large to post, but I can e-mail it. Our repaired door is doing great after 2 years, including winters. Of note the TSB mentions that subsequent improvements were made to the assembly. Thanks Toyota for not doing a recall, even though you acknowledged a problem that required a subsequent design fix.Hope that this helps!
Re: heat shrink tubing
Drop me an e-mail at bavarian doc at g.mail.com (spelled out to resist the spam) or send me your e-mail via a private message. I can send you the TSBs that show how to complete the entire repair, including mounting the new spool on the existing motor. Toyota actually has made the swap easy although this leads me to believe that they are well aware of the problem with longevity in the first few model years.
Anyone can feel free to request the information. I only check the board from time to time, so feel free to ask directly as I may not catch an individual post.
Drop me an e-mail at bavarian doc at g.mail.com (spelled out to resist the spam) or send me your e-mail via a private message. I can send you the TSBs that show how to complete the entire repair, including mounting the new spool on the existing motor. Toyota actually has made the swap easy although this leads me to believe that they are well aware of the problem with longevity in the first few model years.
Anyone can feel free to request the information. I only check the board from time to time, so feel free to ask directly as I may not catch an individual post.
Re: heat shrink tubing
I have a 2004 Sienna. Will the part mentioned work for that year/any year?
I have a 2004 Sienna. Will the part mentioned work for that year/any year?
I called on the extended warranty and was about 5K over the extension so they wouldn't do ANYTHING for me. Let me tell you how happy I am with Toyota over this whole thing.
I did get the tandem bike cables and am back reviewing things so I can possibly epoxy my housing back together and replace the cabling. I am starting to miss the power door, so I'd like to give it a shot. Anyone have the exact cable length that I need to cut to? Or advice on tensioning the cables appropriately?
I did get the tandem bike cables and am back reviewing things so I can possibly epoxy my housing back together and replace the cabling. I am starting to miss the power door, so I'd like to give it a shot. Anyone have the exact cable length that I need to cut to? Or advice on tensioning the cables appropriately?
I tried, was very hopeful, but failed with bike cables. Using ferrules to attach the new cables to a bit of the old cables lasted for a little bit, but eventually came apart. I put it back together again only to have it fail once more. This time it marred up the spool pretty badly. I'm convinced that the marring of the spool from previous damage and possible damage elsewhere in assembly is causing the cables to derail and screw things up. I'm using the door without power now. Not happy, but $400-500 still in my pocket.
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
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