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Hey folks! I am new to the forum and I just bought a 2015 Sienna. I was an Odyssey guy (2007), and I was super chapped when I got the Sienna home, took out the 2nd row seats, and discovered the stupid trolley on tracks system. I immediately thought I should have either kept the old Odyssey or bought the new Odyssey especially after I read that people on this forum resorted to the stealerships to have the tracks removed. I am now ok with the Sienna because I got it for 4k under msrp and they gave me a good price for my Odyssey. On top of that, I tackled the track removal myself...and it was not very difficult. It did not take 4 hours. Basically, the two center racks are held in by a total of 8 17mm nuts from under the car, and each outboard rail is held in by 3 torx head bolts and 1 traditional (seatbelt) bolt. The hardest part was just pulling back the carpeting...but I was able to leave the side panels in and the entry panels for the sliders intact. I removed the tracks, then decided to simply remove the trolley from each track, then reinstalled the tracks to fill the space. Now my floor is flat and I added 1/2 thick industrial foam/padding/mat and it is a dog van. In summary, if you are bummed because of the stupid tracks that Toyota engineers screwed up, it is not a huge deal to take them out if you are mildly mechanically inclined and up for crawling under your Sienna for about 15 minutes.
 

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Hey folks! I am new to the forum and I just bought a 2015 Sienna. I was an Odyssey guy (2007), and I was super chapped when I got the Sienna home, took out the 2nd row seats, and discovered the stupid trolley on tracks system. I immediately thought I should have either kept the old Odyssey or bought the new Odyssey especially after I read that people on this forum resorted to the stealerships to have the tracks removed. I am now ok with the Sienna because I got it for 4k under msrp and they gave me a good price for my Odyssey. On top of that, I tackled the track removal myself...and it was not very difficult. It did not take 4 hours. Basically, the two center racks are held in by a total of 8 17mm nuts from under the car, and each outboard rail is held in by 3 torx head bolts and 1 traditional (seatbelt) bolt. The hardest part was just pulling back the carpeting...but I was able to leave the side panels in and the entry panels for the sliders intact. I removed the tracks, then decided to simply remove the trolley from each track, then reinstalled the tracks to fill the space. Now my floor is flat and I added 1/2 thick industrial foam/padding/mat and it is a dog van. In summary, if you are bummed because of the stupid tracks that Toyota engineers screwed up, it is not a huge deal to take them out if you are mildly mechanically inclined and up for crawling under your Sienna for about 15 minutes.
Thanks for posting this info, riknapora. It will likely help a lot of Sienna owners.
I am also new to the forum and plan to remove the trolleys from my 2015 Sienna. I want to use it for camping and, so far, have removed all the seats. The trolleys represented a real headache and I have only just started to look at the problem. Everything I'd heard prior to your post was scaring me off! Could you please clarify a few details?
Are the 3 outboard track torx bolts inside the vehicle under the carpet? Also, I didn't understand what you meant by "I was able to leave the side panels in and the entry panels for the sliders intact." What are "side panels" and "entry panels"? Perhaps that will be clearer once I start the job? I plan to reinstall the tracks as you did; so, is it evident how the trolleys are removed?

Thanks again.
 

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Just curious, why are so many people annoyed by there tracks? Understandably when you want your dog there, but what else otherwise? I made an Ikea run two days ago and simply covered these things with my winter mats. Just a few humps, but all my boxes rested just fine on all that.

Btw, I remember my old Mazda 5. The middle row seats were so flimsy they constantly shook on the highway...Sienna's are pretty sturdy in comparison. So there's that...
 

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Hi SpaceSputnik,

Don't know about others, but for me, I need a flat floor for a camper. Don't want to be tripping over the trolleys. When I'd heard they'd be a hassle to remove, I'd decided I 'd just build a floor over them but when I put the 3/4" plywood over them, I'd lost almost 4" height. In frustration, I checked the forum again, and luckily, riknapora had posted.

Cheers.
 

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Do you know the size of the torx bolts? I'll have to buy the tool I expect.
Also, any idea how much they were torqued?
 

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.... When I'd heard they'd be a hassle to remove, I'd decided I 'd just build a floor over them but when I put the 3/4" plywood over them, I'd lost almost 4" height.
Cheers.
I did build a raised floor over the second row seat mounts.. Since the van is under warrantee I don't want to do anything that cannot revert to OEM pretty fast. The raised floor is about four inches as you said, and 22 inches wide (front to back) as well about as long as the interior width of the van. It works out pretty well but if I keep the van long enough to go off warrantee I might try to remove the rails instead. My need was a dog crate.
 

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Please note that this is offered for information only. Removing the trolleys and/or tracks may void your warranty. Damage to components, failure to reinstall bolts and fasteners to proper torque, or other unintended results may result in injury or death and expose you to greater liability. I assume no responsibility for the use of the following information.

Hi Gordon,

I successfully removed all four trolleys. Torx driver bit is T-50. I didn't use riknapora's method because the gas tank doesn't allow easy access to the centre drivers-side track (I'll call this #2 starting on the driver's side with #1). However, I discovered that by removing the end bracket I could slide the trolley right off the track. I had to chip away some kind of sealant from the floor that was blocking it. I will try to remember to post a full description of the method when I have a bit more time. Basically, for the other tracks, it involved loosening some bolts and prying the track up off the floor to allow the trolley to slide off the end.
After getting #2 off on my own, I discovered this post from 2013 which is basically the same idea and gave me the confidence to keep going. Thanks, sunny:

sunny
Junior Member Join DateAug 2013Posts3

Re: Seat Track Removal in my 2013

Yesterday I brought my new XLE home and promptly removed the 2nd row seats ....... only to find the horrible seat trolleys sticking up. What a bummer. This is my fourth Toyota minivan, my 2nd XLE. If Toyota didn't want you to remove the middle row of seats they should have called it a minibus. I know more about Toyota minivans than most of the salespeople we encountered while shopping for the new XLE and nobody mentioned the hated seat trolleys when we talked. For those who say "you should have used more due diligence when you shopped" and "it's not Toyota's fault", I say baloney. A significant percentage of minivan owners take out the middle row of seats. Why do you suppose Chrysler keeps advertising their crappy minivan with the words "our rear seats fold flat".

Anyway, I removed the 4 seat rail trolleys today. It took about 4 hours and quite a bit of work. I removed the trolleys by sliding them out the rear of the rails.

For our discussion, we will call the driver side trolley #1 and the rider side trolley #4.
1. Take out the dealer installed mats.
2. On the trolleys, remove the covers and all of the hardware you can with a 12mm wrench.
3. Pop up the rider side sliding door sill cover.
4. Remove the AC vent covers between the 2nd and 3rd seat row.
5. Remove the plastic cap covers on the rear end of the trolley tracks.
6. Take up the floor carpet and peel it back to about 1/3 of the way forward on the seat track rails.
7. Remove the both rear rider side seat belt bolts......one just at the rear of the door sill and the one on the rear rider side panel.
8. With the carpet gone, you can pull the side panel out carefully.
9. Reach in and lift up the AC vent that feeds the AC housing which goes from side to side between the 3rd and 2nd row.
10. Carefully pry up the AC duct on the floor(there are 4 plastic body fasteners). Jiggle it around until you can get it out.
11. Now remove the bolts that hold the end caps on all of the tracks (12 mm).
12. Run the trolley on track #4 back until it hits interference.
13. Get a pry bar and lift up on the bracket that used to be held down by the seat belt bolt at the rear of the door sill. That will get you enough clearance to get #4 out.
14. Crawl under the car and remove the shiny cap nuts that hold track #3 down.
15. With your pry bar, you can now elevate track #3 inside the car enough to clear the 3rd row seat hold down lug while you remove trolley #3.
16. You can now remove trolley #2 without any problem.
17. Trolley #1 can be removed by getting a wide blade putty knife to protect the side wall paneling as you push it back out of the way.

That's it, you're finished with the trolleys. Just be careful to put everything back the way it came out.

I took out the spare tire to make things a bit less cluttered when I loosened the rail nuts on #3. Probably not necessary. You must be careful when you remove the side panels and keep all the fasteners intact.

These are just the basic steps. If you've had experience removing side panels before, you shouldn't have a problem. If you don't feel like you want to take this on, just print out the post and take it to your local body shop guy who can probably complete the job faster than I did.
It would be possible to crawl under the car and loosen up the rail bolts which would allow you to take the entire rails out but I wanted to keep the rails in the car. When you remove the trollelys, they will be liberally loaded with grease ..... make sure you find and keep the 4 plastic grease carriers that accompany each trolley. If you're careful you won't break too many panel snaps. However, most auto parts stores and all auto body supply stores sell them.

I am really impressed with the improvement that the 2913 XLE has made over my older 2008 XLE. A really much improved vehicle.
 

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Hi Gordon,

I successfully removed all four trolleys. Torx driver bit is T-50. I didn't use riknapora's method because the gas tank doesn't allow easy access to the centre drivers-side track (I'll call this #2 starting on the driver's side with #1). However, I discovered that by removing the end bracket I could slide the trolley right off the track. I had to chip away some kind of sealant from the floor that was blocking it. I will try to remember to post a full description of the method when I have a bit more time. Basically, for the other tracks, it involved loosening some bolts and prying the track up off the floor to allow the trolley to slide off the end.
Thanks and I will look forward to the added details. After a quick look under the van (as best as I could get) I don't see any trolley track bolts. How much can you do from inside the van? If I could get the driver's side trolley out that would be good enough (maybe). Photos are always a big help.
 

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Please note that this is offered for information only. Removing the trolleys and/or tracks may void your warranty. Damage to components, failure to reinstall bolts and fasteners to proper torque, or other unintended results may result in injury or death and expose you to greater liability. I assume no responsibility for the use of the following information.

Hi Gordon,

You can do most of it from inside the van. The bolts to hold down the driver's side track (#1) are inside.

First, remove the all the plastic covers and the connecting bar between #1 nd #2 (10mm or 12mm, I can't remember; sunny says 12mm).

photo 5.jpg

Strip back the carpet and remove the end-stop (12mm).

photo 3.jpg

You'll see a bracket held by the seat-belt bolt (14mm) and a T-50 torx bolt. Remove or loosen these two.

photo 1[1].jpg

photo 2[1].JPG

I managed to slide the #1 trolley off by levering the track up a bit and protecting the plastic side panel that covers the wheel arch with a broad putty knife (as suggested by sunny in 2013). Be careful not to lose the grease retainers but they're easy to put back if they drop off. The one in the photo is blue they come in different colours.

photo 3[1].JPG

photo 5[1].jpg

If it's not loose enough to lever it up high enough, there's another T-50 bolt inside the middle of the track that you could loosen; I didn't need to but ymmv.
I lifted the AC duct but didn't remove it so the trolley could slide out without the duct getting in the way. It's held to the floor with four, white, plastic plug-fasteners that can be pried up gently. I made the mistake of removing it to get #4 trolley off. I couldn't get the side panel off to refit it without snapping several clips; it seems to be more firmly attached than sunny describes in 2013. Perhaps it's changed in the 2015 model.
Anyhow, that should get #1 off. Hope it works out.

Cheers and good luck.
 

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DUDE! I don't know when I will tackle this but I will.. and I owe you a beer! (or 12!) Thats one of the best documented posts I ever seen! thanks
 

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You're welcome, Gordon. I took photos with my phone in case I ran into a dead-end and had to abandon my plans and re-instal everything...

I've learned so much from people on various forums. Least I can do is share what I know.

Cheers.
 

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OK I've studied the van and your photos and have the confidence to move forward, but now I'm not sure I want to do just track # 1.. if I'm going to do it, might as well remove both. After getting # 1 out.. what would be different about #2? DO you have to go under the van to get the passengers side trolley out?
 

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Please note that this is offered for information only. Removing the trolleys and/or tracks may void your warranty. Damage to components, failure to reinstall bolts and fasteners to proper torque, or other unintended results may result in injury or death and expose you to greater liability. I assume no responsibility for the use of the following information.

Hi Gordon,

No need to go under the van for trolley #2. It was the easiest and the first one I tried.

Just remove the end bracket and the trolley should just slide off. As mentioned above, I had to chip away a bit of sealant goop for clearance but that's all there was to it. Just take your time and be methodical.

Cheers.
 

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To clarify, we are talking about removing the trolleys only by removing the rail stops, loosening the rails and sliding the trolleys out. The rails stay in place, except for just a little adjustment to get the trolleys out, and afterwards are re-secured in place. Its then a fairly flat floor afterwards, but not perfect. A little plastic and a rug will make it good to go.

Please note that this is offered for information only. Removing the trolleys WILL void your warrantee. Damage to components, failure to reinstall bolts and fasteners to proper torque, or other unintended results may result in injury or death and expose you to greater liability. I assume no responsibility for the use of the following information and on the record; I am telling you to NOT do it.

Some additional notes. This applies to a 2015 Sienna LE.

The two (rear) middle end stops (on rails 2 and 3) were a bit hard to get off because the bolt on the #3 rail hit the stop on the #2 rail and some of the trim piece was in the way. So I removed the #2 rail stop first, then # 3, and the top trim. It was still tight, but doable.

While the proper tool would help, I was able to get the AC duct up by prying the four white clips in this way: I put a putty knife (one inch wide blade) all the way under the clip and right against the bare metal of the vehicle body. I then put a wide blade screwdriver UNDER the putty knife and pried up while rocking back and forth a bit. All four came off without breaking and I was able to maneuver the duct enough to get the trolleys out without actually removing the duct. (It is attached to the passenger side. There is no need to remove side panels.

Even after removing the T-50 and seat belt bolt (rails 1 & 4), I had to pry the rails to get them to pop up a bit. I think they went back in place OK. I did not have to chip any sealant for the trolleys to clear so I guess some vans get more goop than others. However, the trolleys did scratch the paint on the body floor (under the carpet). Neither did I need to remove the side interior panels although the carpet did not seem to go back under as well as it was to start with.

As reported, rail #3 (passenger side left) would not come out at first because the welded in third row seat bracket is in the way. One way to get it out it to remove the front passenger seat and the front rail bolt under the car (17 mm deep socket with extension). The front one was easier to get to under the car, but this method required removing the front seat (four bolts). You only need to move the seat forward (after its removed) far enough to get the trolley out therefore you can leave the seat wiring connected. Then, remove the front rail stop and lift the track and slide the trolley forward. You might have to loosen the other bolt(s) for the track but I did not. If you have a vehicle lift it is probably easier to remove the rear nut and slide the trolley off the back instead, especially if you remove the spare first. In either case, the only thing I needed to get under the van for was to remove one of the nuts for the third rail only, but I’m not sure it would not be easier to do more under the van to facilitate the removal of the other tracks.

@52BLUE.. Yes the T-50 bolts are accessed under the carpet near the back end of the outboard tracks (#1 and #4). The tracks are mounted to a diamond shape plate with one corner of the plate held down by the seat belt bolt. The T-50 is in the opposite corner of the diamond shaped plate, on the other side of the rail (toward the center of the van).. feel around under the carpet and you will find it.

Now I have the van I wanted, instead of the van Toyota wanted to sell me. I knew even before I bought it that the trolleys were a negative and I strongly considered alternatives. Other factors won out however so that I was dealing with the annoying trolleys.

This mod should probably be considered a one way procedure. I labeled everything and made plenty of notes. There are a number of clips and such to keep track of. Still it took me five hours and I still have more to do to finish it up. I expect it will be a little more difficult to put the trolleys back in. I hope to keep the van till it dies, but if I do sell it I will try to get all the torque specs, etc. to re do everything, and I will get a written disclaimer from the buyer.
 

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Hi Gordon,

Sounds like your van is a bit more complicated than mine. I should have mentioned that mine is a 7-seat basic model. I think it’s just called a Sienna FWD 7-Passenger. There was no interference from any of the stop bolts. Your configuration must be different to mine.

Also, I was able to loosen the three rear bolts on #3 track and lever it up enough to clear the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] row seat bracket and slide the trolley off to the rear. It was a tight fit sliding under the van and the rear bolt was partly obscured by a cross beam but still reachable with some contortions. I didn’t have to remove the front passenger seat.

Do you mind if I add your disclaimer to my previous posts (not sure if I can edit them)? I didn’t realize this mod would void anyone’s warranty.

Cheers.
 

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I have the 2015 Sienna LE 8 passenger. I would be surprised if the rails are different although the trolleys might be.

I am sure I could have avoided moving the front seat out of the way and removed trolley # 3 by removing the nuts toward the rear of the rail (under the van) but as you say, they are hard to get to. It probably about the same effort to move the front seat and one bolt under the van, as it would have been to jack up the side of the van, maybe remove the spare, and remove the bolts on the other (rearward) end of the rail instead.

As for disclaimer..please adopt it as you wish. My reason for the caution is this:

As you know the fine marketing people at Toyota tell you that the Sienna can tow 3500 lbs * when properly equipped. So I contacted Toyota to get some guidance on adding the wiring for trailer lights and a trailer brake controller. (Note the per Toyota, trailer brakes are required for trailers over 1000 lbs.) This is their reply:

We apologize as we do not recommend or assist with modifying our vehicles from the original factory specifications.
Toyota's warranty covers repairs and adjustments needed to correct defects in materials or workmanship of any part supplied by Toyota.
Modifications to your vehicle could affect the performance, safety or durability, and may violate government regulations. Non-Genuine Toyota Parts, or any damage or failures resulting from their use, are not covered by any Toyota warranty.
We are sorry; we do not offer a tow wiring harness, for your vehicle. Regrettably, we do not have any recommendations to a supplier or source that may.
Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.

As you can see.. they offer no allowable solutions to tow what they claim you can tow, and they document your inquiry which I’m sure will be brought out if there is a related warrantee or legal claim.

I don’t know that removing the trolleys would be a problem but I feel pretty confident that they would fight you on any claims related to the second row seating if you do this mod. The legal liability is even a bigger concern IMHO.
 

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Hi Gordon,

Good points. I never thought to remove the front seat; that might have been easier. And, I did have to drop the spare tire but I was able to slide under without jacking.

Also, I forgot that I made a similar enquiry at Toyota Canada re: a pop top conversion’s structural integrity. I got a similar reply:
“Thank you for your recent email. We regret to inform you that we are unable to assist with information leading to a modification which is not recommended by Toyota Canada as this would represent an endorsement of the modification in question.
We apologize for the inconvenience and we thank you again for taking the time to write.”

In another mail, they did say it wouldn’t void the entire warranty but that anything related to a modification might not be covered under the warranty. Sounds like it would leave the door wide open to exclude all sorts of coverage.

And thanks, I will use your disclaimer.

Cheers.
 

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Just curious, why are so many people annoyed by there tracks? Understandably when you want your dog there, but what else otherwise? I made an Ikea run two days ago and simply covered these things with my winter mats. Just a few humps, but all my boxes rested just fine on all that.

Btw, I remember my old Mazda 5. The middle row seats were so flimsy they constantly shook on the highway...Sienna's are pretty sturdy in comparison. So there's that...


UM< yes, those of us who transport dogs in crates need a FIRM, FLAT floor. The design as it is just does not work!!! I am going to have to have the trolley removed. Pain in the neck!
 

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Gordon, thank you for all the info, I am currently considering buying a sienna le for dog hauling and long travel trips. I asked at dealership about removing the trolleys and they couldn't give me a straight answer, of course, but your multiple posts are great, it may just be too much for this gal.
 
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