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Yep that's the one he was referring to where you can trim it off on the sides enough to fit. I honestly may end up doing the same thing with the pieces I bought if in the end cannot find the right piece.

Oh, also noticed that the site also sell different types of SMD LEDs as well, I may disassemble the roof console and measure the existing LEDs and eventually solder in new ones as well to match the rest of the car's lighting.
 

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Test fit completed. The correct housing that goes into the blue connector is part# 90980-12366 (the one with image above) which you can buy off any oem part dealers. When I get a chance I'll start reworking on the dash cam.
Thank you for finding out the correct part. May I know does the connector come with the pins?
 

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Thank you for finding out the correct part. May I know does the connector come with the pins?
Yw, you can find more OEM part numbers here for Toyota - https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

The connector/housing does not come with terminal headers so you'll have to buy it separately. Based on the pdf info, I found the part for the terminal as well but could not find a site where it's available other than aliexpress which I don't dare touch. I've ordered some terminals from Amazon based on the fitment provided in the pdf file and hope to find one that fits. The current ones I got are bigger than the insert slots.

On a side note, this cost a bit more to modify in order to try to make it look as OEM as much as possible since the connector itself is around $3-4 plus shipping. If you are able to find the OEM terminal, that one costs around $11+ per one terminal with pre-wired based on my research. So just for the parts to make a perfect OEM fitment/look, it would costs you around $50 just for the connector and terminals, not including your dashcam and converter of choice. But I think it'll be worth it since you don't have to worry about losing the fuse box cover, plus a fun little project :D.
 

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Random thought.... Where's folks with 3D printers? I would think it can do the trick?
Haha I thought about that. I'm still trying different terminals for proper fitment.. so far 2 too big and 1 a little small/loose. I have one more set coming this week to see. If at the very most, I can work around the small one and get it fitted somehow. This is fun lol.
 

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Ok, so finally got off my lazy bum and uninstall what I did before utilizing the fuse box and fab up the connection using the existing blue outlet. I don't think I need to write up another one since there are enough guides in this post as well as another post on how to do so but will take pictures of the result and post it up along with parts (also noted in another thread not mine).
 

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I am having problem put back the case above mirror back up tightly, the case was easy to push forward and very hard to pull down at the beginning. Now I can only put the case back with a spacing between the case and the wind shield. How can I put the case back tightly against the wind shield?
 

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Did you disconnect the plastic piece that connects to the large windshield housing part? Make sure to have this done before too.

When you are ready to slide the main housing back into position, have the 2 clips toward you slide into their position first then the rest should be easy.
 

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I’m looking at the pictures and it looks like the hardwire insulation was too thick to crimp around using the female connector pin is that correct? I have the hardwire kit for the Voodoo A129 plus and I cannot figure out a way to crimp around the insulation.
 
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