Many contractor work trucks have serious 120v power outlets. They do this two way:
1) A powerful inverter. Take 13.5v from an existing 150 amp or higher alternator, chop it to create a form of AC, transformer it to 120v, smooth it out a bit, and you have 1500 watts or so after the losses.
I have an 800 watt continuous, 1200 watt surge unit that I bought many years ago for a misadventure that works OK. It does have a fan and needs ventilation, but could probably be mounted under a seat with a heavy duty power feed to the battery and output cords to a convenience outlet. I'm sure an accessibility or shop that caters to work truck mods could do this kind of installation. The efficiency of small blocky inverters have come a long way since I bought mine.
2) A more serious gen-set belt driven 120v alternator (or better yet, a DC generator with an inverter). Some of these deliver several kilowatts, but I don't know if they could fit on a transverse mounted engine. They work great on your roofing contractors Ford F-250.
1) A powerful inverter. Take 13.5v from an existing 150 amp or higher alternator, chop it to create a form of AC, transformer it to 120v, smooth it out a bit, and you have 1500 watts or so after the losses.
I have an 800 watt continuous, 1200 watt surge unit that I bought many years ago for a misadventure that works OK. It does have a fan and needs ventilation, but could probably be mounted under a seat with a heavy duty power feed to the battery and output cords to a convenience outlet. I'm sure an accessibility or shop that caters to work truck mods could do this kind of installation. The efficiency of small blocky inverters have come a long way since I bought mine.
2) A more serious gen-set belt driven 120v alternator (or better yet, a DC generator with an inverter). Some of these deliver several kilowatts, but I don't know if they could fit on a transverse mounted engine. They work great on your roofing contractors Ford F-250.