The future came fast! Actually, I wrote this today for another site...
So what exactly is a Catalytic Converter, and what kills them?
A catalyst is something that promotes a reaction, but in most cases doesn’t enter into the chemical reaction itself. The promoting material is either unchanged or continuously renewable. It’s all about a field called “Surface Science”. For instance, unburned hydrocarbons will adsorb to a clean platinum surface when the conditions are right. Different from absorb, this is about ‘sticking’ to the outer surface at the atomic level. On the metal surface, the HC’s combine with liberated oxygen and are burned, giving off a lot of heat and benign byproducts.
All this relies on the right conditions.
Contamination:
First, the catalyst surface must be clean and uncontaminated. If your engine has been running particularly rich, HC buildup can occur. Without the proper surface dynamics, sufficient oxygen will not be stored on the cerium, or the liberated oxygen could simply pass on by the HC’s on the platinum. Either way, the system no longer works with the same efficiency. Silicon, lead, phosphorus, zinc and other elements from various chemicals can permanently seal (passivate) the metal surfaces. A common source of silicon is various gasket sealers, and anti-freeze (coolant) that contains metal silicates. Having a head gasket issue? Hopefully you have a low or silicate-free coolant in there.
If you get excessive HC build-up, you might be able to burn it off with an ‘Italian Tune-up’, a tank or two of premium with a strong detergent package, an oxygen-rich fuel (a tank of E85 maybe - but only recommended if your car was built to run this...), or a good fuel additive. This is particularly true if you develop this problem after repeated short drives in which you barely get up to temperature. More on that a few paragraphs down. With other chemical contamination, you may not be able to recover functionality.
The Right Cat:
We need the right amount of internal surface area and the right balance of cerium, platinum, palladium & rhodium to match the characteristics and volume output of the engine. Yes, cats are carefully designed and tailored to the engine and application. This includes not only what is inside, but also the surrounding airflow and heat retention characteristics. Even the physical shape can matter. It’s a finely tuned coexistence, and among the reasons why “universal” converters often don’t work particularly well.
Is Everything Else Working:
The front AF sensor and ECU must properly cycle the lean-rich balance to fuel a precise oxidation-reduction dance to eliminate all three primary pollutants. The ECU relies on the input of a dozen sensors to determine the injector dwell and spark timing. It can handle some system variation, but then you subject it to a mode of continuous compensation. For instance, normal coolant temperature may be around 200’ F. If you have a bad thermostat and the engine is forever at 160’ F, it will run below peak combustion efficiency. Both the temperature sender and the front AF sensors will send this information to the ECU, which will try to compensate. This may result in skewing the STFT & LTFT way off the mark, eventually sending sufficient HC’s to the cat to dull either the conversion material, or the front & rear sensors. Now you start throwing seemingly unrelated codes for AF mixture or Cat Eff, when the real cause was a stuck thermostat.
Internal Temperature:
The temperature of the converter must be managed to keep it around 600’ F. Too low and conversion efficiency drops. Too high, and metal coating delamination from the ceramic and/or meltdown can occur.
Notice that many cats are located adjacent to the exhaust manifold rather than underneath on newer designs? It’s all about light-off speed – the point where efficient reactions begin to take place. What about heat shields? They serve two purposes – to keep things nearby from getting burned, and for keeping sufficient heat in. Guess what is more likely to happen when you opt to remove those pesky shields from the pipes or the cat?
While some operating temperature information can be derived from the sensors, it’s mainly used for determining if the preheater function is operational. Remember that requirement for operation at 300 seconds? If the sensor isn’t at temperature because the heater resistance is too high, the sensor reading will be way off of what the ECU is expecting to see. It’s pretty common to thru a front sensor heater or AF mixture code right at the moment of open-to-closed loop switchover if the sensor isn’t fully operational yet. Maybe if it was queried another minute later, all would be well. Unfortunately, the EPA didn’t give you that extra minute. And that is often the problem with generic or universal sensors. Ever wonder why there are so many sensor part numbers? Yep, just like cats, they are very specific to the application.
So in an ideal world, there would be an internal cat temperature sensor, and a way of regulating cat temperature to keep it in the right range. Unfortunately, it runs open loop. We don't regulate the engine to keep the cat happy, we run the engine and hope that the cat stays happy. If the engine is perpetually cold and sooty, the cat may stay cold and is likely to clog. If you dump excessive unburned fuel into it, it will overheat. And that brings us to MISFIRES and flashing CELs.
I’ll write more when I get a chance.
So what exactly is a Catalytic Converter, and what kills them?
A catalyst is something that promotes a reaction, but in most cases doesn’t enter into the chemical reaction itself. The promoting material is either unchanged or continuously renewable. It’s all about a field called “Surface Science”. For instance, unburned hydrocarbons will adsorb to a clean platinum surface when the conditions are right. Different from absorb, this is about ‘sticking’ to the outer surface at the atomic level. On the metal surface, the HC’s combine with liberated oxygen and are burned, giving off a lot of heat and benign byproducts.
All this relies on the right conditions.
Contamination:
First, the catalyst surface must be clean and uncontaminated. If your engine has been running particularly rich, HC buildup can occur. Without the proper surface dynamics, sufficient oxygen will not be stored on the cerium, or the liberated oxygen could simply pass on by the HC’s on the platinum. Either way, the system no longer works with the same efficiency. Silicon, lead, phosphorus, zinc and other elements from various chemicals can permanently seal (passivate) the metal surfaces. A common source of silicon is various gasket sealers, and anti-freeze (coolant) that contains metal silicates. Having a head gasket issue? Hopefully you have a low or silicate-free coolant in there.
If you get excessive HC build-up, you might be able to burn it off with an ‘Italian Tune-up’, a tank or two of premium with a strong detergent package, an oxygen-rich fuel (a tank of E85 maybe - but only recommended if your car was built to run this...), or a good fuel additive. This is particularly true if you develop this problem after repeated short drives in which you barely get up to temperature. More on that a few paragraphs down. With other chemical contamination, you may not be able to recover functionality.
The Right Cat:
We need the right amount of internal surface area and the right balance of cerium, platinum, palladium & rhodium to match the characteristics and volume output of the engine. Yes, cats are carefully designed and tailored to the engine and application. This includes not only what is inside, but also the surrounding airflow and heat retention characteristics. Even the physical shape can matter. It’s a finely tuned coexistence, and among the reasons why “universal” converters often don’t work particularly well.
Is Everything Else Working:
The front AF sensor and ECU must properly cycle the lean-rich balance to fuel a precise oxidation-reduction dance to eliminate all three primary pollutants. The ECU relies on the input of a dozen sensors to determine the injector dwell and spark timing. It can handle some system variation, but then you subject it to a mode of continuous compensation. For instance, normal coolant temperature may be around 200’ F. If you have a bad thermostat and the engine is forever at 160’ F, it will run below peak combustion efficiency. Both the temperature sender and the front AF sensors will send this information to the ECU, which will try to compensate. This may result in skewing the STFT & LTFT way off the mark, eventually sending sufficient HC’s to the cat to dull either the conversion material, or the front & rear sensors. Now you start throwing seemingly unrelated codes for AF mixture or Cat Eff, when the real cause was a stuck thermostat.
Internal Temperature:
The temperature of the converter must be managed to keep it around 600’ F. Too low and conversion efficiency drops. Too high, and metal coating delamination from the ceramic and/or meltdown can occur.
Notice that many cats are located adjacent to the exhaust manifold rather than underneath on newer designs? It’s all about light-off speed – the point where efficient reactions begin to take place. What about heat shields? They serve two purposes – to keep things nearby from getting burned, and for keeping sufficient heat in. Guess what is more likely to happen when you opt to remove those pesky shields from the pipes or the cat?
While some operating temperature information can be derived from the sensors, it’s mainly used for determining if the preheater function is operational. Remember that requirement for operation at 300 seconds? If the sensor isn’t at temperature because the heater resistance is too high, the sensor reading will be way off of what the ECU is expecting to see. It’s pretty common to thru a front sensor heater or AF mixture code right at the moment of open-to-closed loop switchover if the sensor isn’t fully operational yet. Maybe if it was queried another minute later, all would be well. Unfortunately, the EPA didn’t give you that extra minute. And that is often the problem with generic or universal sensors. Ever wonder why there are so many sensor part numbers? Yep, just like cats, they are very specific to the application.
So in an ideal world, there would be an internal cat temperature sensor, and a way of regulating cat temperature to keep it in the right range. Unfortunately, it runs open loop. We don't regulate the engine to keep the cat happy, we run the engine and hope that the cat stays happy. If the engine is perpetually cold and sooty, the cat may stay cold and is likely to clog. If you dump excessive unburned fuel into it, it will overheat. And that brings us to MISFIRES and flashing CELs.
I’ll write more when I get a chance.