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Any alternative fixes for broken door check strap weld?

44344 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  junglebunn
I've got the dreaded door check strap weld that broke after the warranty for it expired. I'm not paying ~$1k for a repair that might fail again or $2k to get the entire door replaced with the new bolt style plate.

So I'm wondering if any of you have tried some alternative method of fixing it that doesn't require taking the entire door apart. In my particular situation, only the bottom weld broke, so the cup flops around making banging sounds each time the door check strap decides to pop in or out. I'm thinking maybe a strong epoxy or even superglue might be able to grip that bottom piece of metal well enough to make a good fix. Since the only pressure pulling apart the glue would be the door check strap pressing in, maybe the glue is enough.

Has anyone tried this as a fix? Any reason you think this would not work?

I've gotten so used to and annoyed with the sound of the drivers door pop, that when I enter the passenger side the rare times I do, it feels so good to open a door and hear nothing and feel no ridiculous resistance. I really want to get the drivers side fixed, I wish toyota wouldn't have set such a low time limit on this warranty. These things don't break on any other car I've ever seen.
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Today I took the door panel off to repair a door check that was torn from the bottom 2 spot welds and starting to develop a crack in the upper corner of the cup that the door check bolts to. Drilled 5 holes around the circumference of the cup that the door check bolts to, all near existing spot welds since there is adequate flange to bolt to and 2 additional holes were drilled on the door panel face where I could feel a flange that I could bolt to. All holes were drilled through the same material where the spot welds are. 6-32 screws with washers and locking nuts were placed in these 7 holes. Some were difficult to get access to but using a magnet and other means all nuts were applied to each of the screws. The 6-32 screws were chosen since they were the largest size where the washer and nut would fit on the existing flange material on the cup. I do not think #8 screws would work and #4 are quite small.
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Today I took the door panel off to repair the door check on a 2005 Sienna. The bottom two spot welds had failed and the cup that the door check attaches to had begun to develop a crack in the upper corners, probably from the flexing it was undergoing since the bottom of the cup had already torn from the spot welds. I drilled 5 9/32 holes in the same face of the door that the 4 spot welds are on. This is face that is in the door jam when the door is closed. I drilled 2 additional holes on the face of the door that the door panel connects to. This is the face that is facing the interior of the van when the door is closed. I drilled holes near each of the 4 spot welds since I could feel a flange behind each of them and the spot welds would need this flange to weld to. Getting washers and nuts on each of the screws was not too bad with the exception of the screw in the lower position. A magnet and some luck were necessary to hold the nut and then a screwdriver was needed to wedge the nut while turning the screw since the space inside the door is inadequate to get a socket or wrench on the nut.

I don't believe that adhesive would be sufficient to hold this cup in place. Time will tell if these 7 screws located around the perimeter of the cup that the door check bolts to is sufficient.
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