[Atoymic]

You will NOT find that as a Toyota part. You have to use the numbers and order online. This is where I ordered.

61911-2RS Ball Bearing 55x80x13mm - Rubber Sealed

61911-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing55mm x 80mm x 13mm 61911-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing, 61911-2RS bearing is made from chrome steel,61911-2RS bearing has Rubber seals to protect the bearing from dust or any possible contamination, 61911-2RS is self lubricated bearings, 61911-2RS is already greased. Item...

www.vxb.com

Thank you for the info. This is what I need.

 

[dfertig84]

Thanks this really helped me alot.

 

[Atoymic]

Changing the two bearings resolved all of the issues of the rear diff.

 

[Benjamin W]

2012 Sienna AWD- replaced bearings in coupler using the large bearing part number listed here and the VXB bearing that was chatted about here. Both bearings were shot on my coupler. Replace both if you have it apart anyways. Bearings Fit in perfectly! Did use sealant around large bearing as talked about here because the new one has no exterior o-ring. Used YouTube video.

Only difference I saw was no large snap ring around large bearing on mine as this gentleman has on his. Thx and if you have any questions post them. Thx Ben

 

[banguin]

So I have this issue on a 2018 with only 37,000 miles(but rust underneath as purchased from NY). Getting conflicting information on what assembly is used. Dealer tells me that for my vin the assembly is 41303-28020 but most sites list this as a 2019-2020 part where 41303-28013 is for 2014-2018.

Does anyone know anything about the 28020 version? Is it interchangeable with the 28013 version? Does it have the same internal bearings? All the rebuild kits say for the 28013 version.

any help appreciated. 3rd baby coming any day and need this van back on the road!

 

[Courtroom19]

You will NOT find that as a Toyota part. You have to use the numbers and order online. This is where I ordered.

61911-2RS Ball Bearing 55x80x13mm - Rubber Sealed

61911-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing55mm x 80mm x 13mm 61911-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing, 61911-2RS bearing is made from chrome steel,61911-2RS bearing has Rubber seals to protect the bearing from dust or any possible contamination, 61911-2RS is self lubricated bearings, 61911-2RS is already greased. Item...

www.vxb.com

just a side note that I learned from a “bearing expert” the other day.. stick with the 6911 bearing part numbers… the cheap Chinese brands ad a 1 between the 6 and the 9 giving you a 61911 bearIng number with the same dimensions but poor quality…this guy was a wealth of knowledge, this was the main point I got from our conversation…

 

[BurntClutch]

Would like to weigh in here, going to have to replace my coupler in the coming weeks, and debating on just swapping the whole part so I dont have to fiddle with it in the driveway..

Did anyone have to replace the protector underneath the differential? I have a 2013, and I see there is a new part number. If I order the coupler, are the mounting holes for the plate different or something? I saw from a different YouTube link that the guy had ordered some large washers and a spacer, but not sure if those are needed for a 2011 only and not a 2013.

Appreciate any input here.

 

[Jimbo57]

Try Longo Toyota at Shop OEM Toyota Replacement Parts | Longo Toyota Parts. Search for one of the numbers, put in your year and model and they will direct you to the right equivalent. From then on, the part numbers you enter go to the same year and model. In the checkout, enter your VIN and they will double check everything, they say. I haven't ordered yet and they have not responded yet about VIN, maybe when they get the order or when they are open.

Note that they list the viscous coupler itself as discontinued, but do list the bearings and other items.

Here are part numbers for my 2012 Sienna LXE:
Bearing #1: 90363-95004
Bearing #2: 90363-95007
Pinion Seal: 90310-54003
Dust Deflector: 41252-44010
Sealant: 00295-01281
Current total is about $120.

From there you should be able to find parts for your year and model and confirm by VIN.

I hope these bearings are better than the original or these will have to be done again in 126K miles. Crappy engineering, I'd say.

 

[Skip43]

Anyone have pics/video of rwmoval of the smaller bearing? I can’t seem to figire out how it comes out.

thanks!

 

[ARC]

There is some Sienna Gen 3 confusion here caused by Toyota (or NSK) changing the diameter of the large coupler bearing (NSK 95DSF01) from 120x95x17 to 120x95x13mm without changing the part number. On our 2015 Sienna AWD the large bearing stamped as NSK 95DSF01 is 13mm thick and so it is a NSK6819-2RS (Toyota part 90363-95003). To add further to the confusion, Toyota part 90363-95003 is replaced by Toyota part 90363-95007 which is the "older" 17mm version of NSK 95DSF01.

Likewise, the "shallow" dust shield 41252-33010 is wrong for our 2015 Sienna coupler. We have a larger skirted deep dust shield (not sure of Toyota's part number).

The smaller inner bearing 90363-65004 is too large. The stamp on our bearing is NSK 6911V which is 80x55x13.

So the coupler "kit" for our 2015 is:
1. Large bearing: NSK 6819-2RS (120x95x13)
2. Small beaing: NSK 6911V (80x55x13)
3. Dust shield: large skirt (new improved design to keep water out, Toyota part unknown)
4. Oil seal: 90310-54003 (likely, have not received it yet to confirm)

Some photos.

 

[Vova.gucci]

There is some Sienna Gen 3 confusion here caused by Toyota (or NSK) changing the diameter of the large coupler bearing (NSK 95DSF01) from 120x95x17 to 120x95x13mm without changing the part number. On our 2015 Sienna AWD the large bearing stamped as NSK 95DSF01 is 13mm thick and so it is a NSK6819-2RS (Toyota part 90363-95003). To add further to the confusion, Toyota part 90363-95003 is replaced by Toyota part 90363-95007 which is the "older" 17mm version of NSK 95DSF01.

Likewise, the "shallow" dust shield 41252-33010 is wrong for our 2015 Sienna coupler. We have a larger skirted deep dust shield (not sure of Toyota's part number).

The smaller inner bearing 90363-65004 is too large. The stamp on our bearing is NSK 6911V which is 80x55x13.

So the coupler "kit" for our 2015 is:
1. Large bearing: NSK 6819-2RS (120x95x13)
2. Small beaing: NSK 6911V (80x55x13)
3. Dust shield: large skirt (new improved design to keep water out, Toyota part unknown)
4. Oil seal: 90310-54003 (likely, have not received it yet to confirm)

Some photos.
View attachment 62181
View attachment 62179 View attachment 62180 View attachment 62181 View attachment 62182

I also have 2015 with the skirted seal for the large bearing. Anyone find a part number for that? All I found was this ebay listing (2 bearing kit ebay)for the complete set, not sure on the quality of the bearings, but did make out that the large bearing in the listing is actually NSK 6819 VV
Also just noticed that the metal color on the internal part is brown in color, does that mean its toast and I need a new couple? I found this on NHTSA website stating that if it has color change, the couple needs to be replaced.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10201352-9999.pdf

 

[ARC]

Yes, the large bearing was still stamped NSK 6819 (and surprisingly had the ring seal built in like the OEM) and thus the confusion as both sizes (old and new edition) have the same NSK number. I found an Ebay seller in Canada (and also one in the US, though not sure if these are NSK) that had all OEM/NSK parts for the rebuild. The smaller bearing was NSK 6911V instead of the OEM NSK 6911-2RS and fit perfectly. Now 1200kms later and all remains quiet on the differential front.

Brown staining is typically a sign of oil burn from overheating. Unless it feels rough the bearing should be fine. However, why not replace both since you have it all apart.

 

[Vova.gucci]

Yes, the large bearing was still stamped NSK 6819 (and surprisingly had the ring seal built in like the OEM) and thus the confusion as both sizes (old and new edition) have the same NSK number. I found an Ebay seller in Canada (and also one in the US, though not sure if these are NSK) that had all OEM/NSK parts for the rebuild. The smaller bearing was NSK 6911V instead of the OEM NSK 6911-2RS and fit perfectly. Now 1200kms later and all remains quiet on the differential front.

Brown staining is typically a sign of oil burn from overheating. Unless it feels rough the bearing should be fine. However, why not replace both since you have it all apart.

I just purchased the car from an auto auction it had front end damage. I suspect after the accident it's possible it was towed on a dolly with back two tires on the ground. I heated up an old screwdriver handle to insert it into the splines and once engage I tried turning and it binds up and doesn't turn freely. Thinking once it's overheated, it's a goner. As a result, I just ordered a new genuine coupler on ebay for $850 from Japan, I'd hate to spend time and money rebuilding mine to only later have to replace it anyway.

 

[ARC]

Yes, easier.

 

[Vova.gucci]

This was a good post to follow as I used this as a guide to tackle this myself instead of buying the entire unit.

my additional notes:

you definitely need a new dust shield as prying the old one destroys it

the small bearing part number is wrong

and yes be really careful when pressing it out bc it’s not held in by much and a gentle tap will free it - my wires pulled out and I had to older them back in

also I think my unit might be too far gone as fluid was pretty dirty/burned and the metal has bluing which means it got really hot - either way I might as well slap it back in and see how it goes.

the job is very easy and straight forward and there’s a lot of room and access

How is your coupler holding up, you mentioned it was oil was burnt and couple has bluing, I'm in the same predicament, not sure if to do the bearing replacement or replace entire unit.

 

[ARC]

As stated, 1200kms and working great. I also did the U-Joint on the drive line axle closest to the coupler as it was about to break apart. Knocked out, pressed out, and cut out the "stacked in" U-joint and put in a perfect fit SKF UJ10430 with grease nib. Better than a new $1000 Toyota drive axle, or a $500 Cardone aftermarket which uses cheaper casting reported to often break. The only trouble I had was to take apart the last section of driveline at the "boot joint" which has 6 hex bolts holding it together (inside there is a typical CV axle moly grease set up). The two parts were rusted and eventually came apart when I had my son pull on a rope tied to the axle while I hit the joint with a 5lbs hammer.

 

[Vova.gucci]

As stated, 1200kms and working great. I also did the U-Joint on the drive line axle closest to the coupler as it was about to break apart. Knocked out, pressed out, and cut out the "stacked in" U-joint and put in a perfect fit SKF UJ10430 with grease nib. Better than a new $1000 Toyota drive axle, or a $500 Cardone aftermarket which uses cheaper casting reported to often break. The only trouble I had was to take apart the last section of driveline at the "boot joint" which has 6 hex bolts holding it together (inside there is a typical CV axle moly grease set up). The two parts were rusted and eventually came apart when I had my son pull on a rope tied to the axle while I hit the joint with a 5lbs hammer.

Talk about ingenuity, I have my 10 year old son also hand me tool when I'm under the car.
Sorry ARC, in my previous post I was trying to ask Leftychang as his coupler also had bluing from potentially being overheated, but I doubt he'll answer as his original post was from 2019.