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Our 2015 had a dead battery when leaving for my wife's surgery. Luckily our 2000 4Runner was fine so we made it. Finally got around to jumping it and had the fob ready to stop the alarm. Touched the starter to silence the alarm and now NOTHING happens when you do anything. I saw something about cycling the power doors, but with the dead and near dead battery the rear door wouldn't let us open it (had to crawl over the seats to get the hospital stuff out of the back!) and it doesn't appear to have any sort of mechanical lock switch, so I can't do that.

Please help!

Tried a couple of searches but got nothing relevant. Hope I didn't miss something in that.
 

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Your original battery is dead. So dead it won't respond to a jump? Then it's time to replace the battery with a new one.

I replaced the original battery on our 2015 this past weekend. You can't expect a whole lot from original equipment.

Group 24F. My recommendation for inexpensive and plenty powerful is Walmart's Everstart Maxx.
 

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No the battery was not si dead it didn't respond to the jump. The alarm started and when I hit the ignition switch to stop thr alarm, thr car went completely dead, I'm assuming due to an anti theft shut down. Looking for a procedure to get out of the security shutdown.
 

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Sorry, I'm just not following....

You connected a good running car/battery to your van. The alarm went off? Did the van successfully start? Did the battery take the charge? Do the lights or anything work after that? Did you put a charger on the battery to fully recharge the old battery, or did you get a new one?

Alarms after a discharged or disconnected batteries have happened to people with Gen-II vans, but you don't hear of it much with Gen-III models. Did you try cancelling it with the remote fob?
 

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Add soon as I collected thr cables, thr alarm went off. Fob did nothing
Touched the ignition button and all went silent. Nothing. No lights, no dash displays, nothing. Is there a place to insert thr fob if it dies? Maybe that is the procedure in this case. (It just occurred to me that if thr fob doesn't work wirelessly, inserting it in the dead fob location might work. At hospital; will check later today at the house.)
 

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Left it attached to 4Runner via cables for several minutes. No indication whatsoever of any life, even though there was some life (door ajar screen, etc.) Just as I hooked up the cables.
 

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I'm wondering if somehow you didn't accidentally reverse the cables during the first jump start attempt.
 

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They're was only one attempt with several minutes of connection with no issues. I know someone who was blasted in the face with acid because the other person put his cables on wrong, and before he could get them off, his battery exploded. I am always very careful when attacking cables, and always tap to get the mild spark and nothing else before clamping them.
 

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If that is still the original battery, it's time for a new one. Let's hope fibber's fears are for naught; his advice on the batteries at Wal-Mart is good--be sure to select a fresh one.
 

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I selected a fresh one (1/20, I assume manufactured last month) at walmart and installed it. I still don't understand why jumper cables wouldn't even engage the dash screens, but the new battery started it just fine.
 

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I had my 10 year old waiting with the fob right next to the start button but the alarm didn't even chirp.
 

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As I said, alarms going off after a power cut isn't a common thing on Gen-III vans.

Back to Post #2.... When a battery is truly toast, it can becomes a dead load and the best choice is to replace it. It's not quite as bad as reversing the jumper cables, but you can do damage to your van and to the donor vehicle. If it had started and you then disconnected the donor vehicle, you can damage your alternator by not having a valid voltage reference and sufficient capacitance to quell voltage spikes and noise.
 

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So, way back, I had a friend with an alarm on an '89 Acura. We drove 2 hours away, sat through a meeting in the conference area of a hotel, and then came out to find the battery dead. Someone gave us a jump, but as soon as they connected the cables, the alarm went off. It wouldn't respond to his key fob. He was able to silence the alarm by pushing the secret disable switch, but the "brain" behind it still thought the alarm was going off, so the ignition was still disconnected. The eventual fix that I was able to do was borrow some assorted things from the hotel (screwdriver, scissors, scotch tape), disconnected the ignition wire from both sides of the alarm box and the car started right up. In the end, it turned out that his battery was going dead. When it got to a low enough level, that caused an issue which made the alarm malfunction. The front desk told us that the alarm was going off for about an hour, which fully killed the battery. Something about the almost dead battery fried the logic circuits of the alarm control module, so, in the end, he needed a battery AND a new alarm. Hopefully, 25 years has improved technology greatly!
 

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No the battery was not si dead it didn't respond to the jump. The alarm started and when I hit the ignition switch to stop thr alarm, thr car went completely dead, I'm assuming due to an anti theft shut down. Looking for a procedure to get out of the security shutdown.
"Our 2015 had a dead battery "
Was the Battery dead or not dead ? In one thread the opener you say it was dead, now you say it is not dead..
 

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I selected a fresh one (1/20, I assume manufactured last month) at walmart and installed it. I still don't understand why jumper cables wouldn't even engage the dash screens, but the new battery started it just fine.
Your old battery might have had shorted cells - and so your dash will not light up. You would be lucky to get a click.
When jumping a vehicle.
As a safety -
On the vehicle being jumped connect your positive to the Red positive of the battery (make sure it is the positive - don't just go by color.)
Then connect your ground cable - the black one to the vehicle ground .
On the car that will supply power: Connect your red lead to the positive battery terminal and then connect your black ground cable to the cars ground (while watching the vehicle with the dead battery - if you see smoke or fumes remove your leads from the running vehicle.)

The idea here is the running vehicle is further away, your connecting the cable to the ground - not near the battery where battery fumes could ignite.
 
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