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2015 Toyota Sienna LE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Starting to go through a new to us 2015 Sienna LE. Noticed what sounded like the beginning of a bearing howl during the test drive but the price was right and didn't notice any other major issues. From driving it around, sounds like it's coming from the front, passenger wheel.

I got the tires off the ground today to try to diagnose further. Didn't feel any play when pushing the tire up and down, left and right. Spun the wheels by hand expected to hear a low grinding noise (other than brake rub) but ended up hearing a cyclical clunking noise instead, almost like sticking a card in spokes of a bike tire. I'll see if I can figure out how to upload the video/audio.

I've replaced a few bearings on other cars before but they didn't sound like this. Am I still looking for a bad bearing, or is this something else?

Thanks in advance,

- brickhouse

2015 Sienna LE
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was able to upload the video to Google Drive, here's the link:

2015_Sienna_Passenger_Wheel_Noise.mov

I'm not sure if this could be the CV axle going? I do notice that the sound speed dependent, louder on the passenger side, and intensifies when turning to the left (putting more pressure on the passenger wheel?). Still sort of thinking wheel bearing, but would love to hear anyone's opinion.

Thanks,

Brickhouse
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Louder when you turn one way is classic wheel bearing noise.
Sort of what I was thinking, the clicking noise just threw me off when I spun the wheel by hand. The service records from the previous owner show that the driver side front bearing was replaced not too long ago so I guess its time for the passenger side now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Finally had the chance to take the van for a diagnosis ride in an empty parking lot. The humming/grinding sound is very noticeable above 25-30mph. When driving fairly tight circles at that speed, the sound gets louder and "whah, whah, whah" sound is audible when turning to the right. Sound decreases when turning to the left. (I read the service records incorrectly, the previous owner had the passenger side bearing replaced) Very little noise when sitting in the back seats so fairly confident its the front, driver's side bearing that needs to be replaced. I figure I have a few options:

A - Buy a "loaded" knuckle, swap it out, and get an alignment. Only problem is that I don't see any loaded knuckles with decent bearing brands installed.

B - Attempt to use a bearing pusher kit to replace the bearing with the knuckle installed.

C - Pull the knuckle and have a local shop press my bearing of choice in.

Any thoughts on these options? Other ideas? I think I'm leaning towards option C with a Timken (re-boxed Koyo).

- Brickhouse
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Confirmed that it is the driver's side, front bearing that is going bad. Car Care Nut had a great video with a diagnosis trick involving feeling the coil spring while turning the wheel by hand:


I've decided to go ahead and try to pull the old bearing using a FWD bearing install kit that I rented from AutoZone.

Does anyone know if the bearing needs to be installed in a certain direction? I've read that some bearings have magnetic rings for ABS sensors, but I don't think this one does. I'm guessing it can be pressed back into the knuckle in either direction?

Thanks,

Brickhouse
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So the old bearing is out and the new bearing is in. The bearing puller kit worked out. Hardest part was pushing the old bearing out of the knuckle, it took a lot of force and I was worried the forcing screw was going to strip. After that the installation was smooth sailing. Replaced the front brakes and rotors while I was there (the old rotors looked like vinyl records).

I ended up following the guide from this site:

How to Replace the Front Wheel Bearings in a Toyota Sienna

The guide is for a Gen2 Sienna, but it was very close and the torque values seemed to check out for the Gen3 as well.

Here's a few notes for anyone that might want to try this:

  • The OEM bearing is a Koyo bearing, sold as a re-boxed Timken. The Koyo part number of the old bearing matched the new one I had purchased.
  • The required specialty tools could be rented from AutoZone.
    • FWD Bearing Puller Kit - 57205
    • Slide Hammer - 57033
    • Hub Puller Attachment - 57037
  • The cups/rings that come with the kit don't quite fit the knuckle and bearing. Use the second to largest cup to start pressing the bearing out (it fits very well into the knuckle, but isn't large enough for the bearing to pass through). Once the bearing has moved ~1/2in, switch to the largest cup so the bearing doesn't get pressed into the cup (doesn't fit the knuckle very well but at this point the bearing is already moving and the force required is much less).
  • I had a new hub on hand but was able to re-use the old one by cutting the inner bearing race off with an angle grinder. Just have to be careful to not cut into the hub. Get it thin enough and a good whack with a chisel will crack it and it will slide right off.
  • When installing the new hub, get everything lined up and then give it a spin, you'll see if you have the hub straight or if it needs to be aligned more.
That's really it. Re-assembly is straightforward. All of the noise and vibration is gone and the car rides great. All in about $75 in parts sure beats a $$$ mechanic's bill. Certainly more difficult than an oil change or simple break job, but I would say if you're comfortable working on suspension type repairs or more involved engine repairs, this job isn't too bad.

Thanks for all of the tips.

- Brickhouse
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@brickhouse,
May you please share the bearing part number and where you get it from?
I searched rockauto with DAC4596W – 2CS69 but it returns nothing.
The only Timken bearing shown is the following:

Thank you for your post.
q0987, yes that is the bearing I ordered from RockAuto, should have mentioned that before. If you look closely at the pictures you can actually see the Koyo name engraved along the outer race.

For what its worth, here's the hub I ordered (it came with a bearing that I was not planning to use). I didn't end up using the hub, but I did compare it with the old one and it looked good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W1NQSKY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The snap ring appears to be a dealer part only, couldn't find it online or in local stores. I picked up a pair of axle nuts for $7 at AutoZone (Dorman brand) and they worked fine.

- Brickhouse
 

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Just did the same thing with one cv axle. But all four bearings/hubs dome rides like a dream. Also replaced the pads and rotors, since it was off and when i was stopping it think it was wobbling as the pads were making noise at slower speeds. Drilled and slotted centrics/stoptech with stoptech front pads, the rear pads were fine so we reused them.

Check this thread!

 
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