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Hey Guys,

I went use the rear hatch and it won't open again!! :mad:

I left the back panel off and tried to tug on the wire to release the lock, but it's stuck. Tried to press the buttons for the remote to unlock the rear hatch and no luck as well. Any idea of what is happening with this thing? The microswitch seems to be working.

Regards, JC.

I am playing with my latch now. Something wrong in the latch itself. My handle was broken. Removed and replaced the handle. It worked fine until I cycled the door locks. Came on here and looking for answers to that issue.
 

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I am playing with my latch now. Something wrong in the latch itself. My handle was broken. Removed and replaced the handle. It worked fine until I cycled the door locks. Came on here and looking for answers to that issue.
Leave the door panel off and close the rear hatch. Then bring yourself a flashlight and keyfob to try and lock the doors while you sit in the rear of the van. I'm thinking you have the cable installed incorrectly. Maybe you disconnected the wire before you unlocked/locked the door and the actuator is the wrong position?

Regards, JC.
 

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I replaced the rusty but still sorta working liftgate handle on my 2000 Sienna today.

One good thing about fleet vehicles (vehicles that were used as cop cars, taxis etc) is that the parts that fail all the time end up being made by aftermarket companies (translation Made in China), thus my replacement handle with shipping was $12. It was advertised as all metal but the handle itself is all plastic.

In the 1st attached pic, the red arrow points to where the problem, I think, is. The metal rod passes through a hole that when rusted seizes up and it's game over.

So I cut a stainless steel antenna (see second pic) to make a replacement for the original metal rod and painted the black bracket part with some Interlux paint (3rd pic). I cut a notch in the stainless steel rod so I could add a C-clip (4th pic). The stainless steel antenna rod is tapered so the other end of the rod won't pass through the hole so doesn't need a C-clip.

My vehicle is missing the clip that holds the license plate light cover on so I used Goop to affix that, and had to use a piece of wood to hold it there until it cured (last pic).

I live near the ocean and could tell that left the way the new handle arrived, I'd be lucky if it worked for a year.
 

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I am on my 2nd hatch door handle replacement. Have also replaced all of the front and sliding handles a few times. Rear hatch handle is much easier to replace.

First time I replaced the hatch handle was with a Toyota OEM. Cost me about $75 five years ago. It just broke ( of course it happened the day my son was staring college and the vaan was loaded with all of his things for his dorm. I bought an aftermarket handle for $12. When I went to put it in , one of the screws didn't line up correctly and fit in the holes. Had to nudge it in with a screwdriver. Then , the channel where the cable is supposed to snap into place was too small and I was unable to get the cable to stay in. Finally got it working ( or so I thought ) put all the trim back on. Next day ... hatch wouldn't open. Opened it up and found that because the release cable would not snap in and hold in place, it had disconnected.from the handle. Dealer wanted $88 for an OEM. Found one on eBay for Ebay for $45. Works like a char, I figure 5 years out of plastic handle is pretty good and easy to repair
 

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Redo

In post #24 I wrote:

I live near the ocean and could tell that left the way the new handle arrived, I'd be lucky if it worked for a year.
Well, here it is 1 year and 4 1/2 months later and I installed yet another new liftgate handle today (see attached pics). The first pic shows the one I Installed in post #24 on top and the one I put in today on the bottom.

But it was failing before Xmas so it only really lasted about 1 year and a month. nice

The trouble is... do I install the actual Toyota one (about $80)... or one that cost just under 10 bucks that has a 6 yr warranty? I chose the latter.

So all my stainless steel rod and painting with Interlux (it's $120 a gallon paint boat paint) didn't do squat!

I'm not sure one couldn't take a piece of Trex decking and carve the part out of that, the metal portion of the handle... that's the kind of way I'd spend an afternoon when I was a kid. This time I'm just planning on sending in back in a year so I didn't swap the ss rod or paint it, just waxed it.
 

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That is some serious rust...
You almost need to have the whole part rubber coated to prevent any salt water from getting to the metal!
 

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Yes, I live in what I'd call the Rust Center of the Universe. I've lived here (Oahu) for 40 years and have tried everything and the only thing that works is stainless steel, and then only the higher grades. I've had about 30+ vehicles since I moved here 40 years ago.
In the mid 90's when i was burned out from the music industry (if you can call it that) I took 6 months off and made a custom car, using a frame from a '69 Chevy and a fiberglass Jeep body. It looked like Jeep with a truck bed on the back. Getting it street legal was hell. When it was passed they told me I was the only person to successfully comply with the rules. On the registration the make of vehicle was my name, so I guess I am the only Hawaiian auto manufacturer. But after about two years the frame rusted out so I replaced it with one from an 80's Caprice, then that rusted out and I gave up on the idea. But I did drive it for a few years and being light it was fast with the Chevy 350. The Jeep body made it easy to get parts like a top, doors etc... but I learned a lot, the biggest thing was how corrupt the DOT is here.
I did a bunch of rust tests and came to the conclusion that coating iron with anything never works because there was always a scratch or place where the rust will start.
All the stuff that most people will think of - car covers, rust proofing, waxing etc are jokes to the rust you get here.
The Sienna actually comes out the best of all the vehicles I've had in not rusting, and the worst in art. The vehicle is like a polyester suit that never wears out but you wish it would so you could throw it away! I keep trying to like it but it still affects me like that Japanese drumset that works perfectly but for some reason you hate. Its not a racist thing, it's just that it has no soul.
I've had too many nice Cadillacs!
 

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Aug 28, 2018 Retry:

The cheapo handle rusted out (see red arrow pic 1). Note stainless steel car antenna used to replace regular steel rod.

So I coated the new replacement handle (another cheapo) with PC-7 and then gave it a few coats of Rustoleum rust inhibiting primer and and then a topcoat of Ace black paint (see pics 2 & 3).
 

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My previously repaired rear latch finally rusted almost all the way through, so that the connecting wire didn't move enough to release the latch of my rear liftgate.

Instead of the "all-metal" replacement part (Dorman is an example), I took the plunge and bought a genuine Toyota part ($64), which fit perfectly. After installing the new latch, my rear liftgate again works perfectly.

Hope this helps someone.
 

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Yes, the "all metal" plastic part, I have 3 of them!

The $8 China one that I coated with PC-7 and replaced the rod with a stainless steel antenna is still working well but for sure if it fails I will be biting the bullet and buying the OEM like you did.

As 3D printing becomes more common I would expect someone to make the tailgate handle and the other door handles out of of something like delrin.
 

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I've done mine 4 times already on 2002 Sienna. First time was with new plastic device. After that broke, I did the DIY repair of the broken part. After that broke again, I got the metal one. When the metal one stopped working, I removed it and couldn't find anything broken, but it seemed that the metal tab where you insert the door-opening cable had bent, so that the cable didn't move far enough to open the door even with the handle fully depressed. My solution was to insert a slotted metal ferrule (the sort used on a bicycle brake cable, in-between the cable-casing and the brake hand-lever) over the door cable, in-between the cable-end and the bent tab. This removed the cable slack, and everything again worked fine when I re-installed the handle with the ferrule in place. (Also, I wrapped the ferrule in electrical tape to keep it from slipping off the cable.)
 

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Are any of the "all metal" ones all metal? The ones I've bought were described as metal but the handle part (red colored in attached pic) was plastic.
 

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Hi AKPHONEGUY...

Mine broke too! :mad:

Anyway, I couldn't quite follow what you were saying here. There is an all-metal replacement handle for the hatchback handle? Why on Earth wouldn't the guy on eBay ship it to you?

Also, you mention the "Dorman" model--is that the one you tried to buy on eBay? And then you were eventually able to buy it through partspros?
 

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Update metal handles for tail are now like 13 USA dollars avail from many not just doorman..
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I purchased and install a all metal rear hatch handle in July. No issues. Seems to be less movement/play than the old one but has worked fine. Got on Amazon. $14.95. Brand: TCK TECH - Desc. "All Metal for Toyota Sienna Sequoia Handle Hatch Tailgate Latch Rear 69090-0C080 - Rated 3.6 of 5 in 111 ratings














 
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