Last year we purchased a 2015 Limited Premium FWD van to replace our 2008 LE FWD. Being a Subaru guy we strongly considered (both times) the AWD version of the Sienna, but the runflats were a major detractor along with reports of a bigger than expected fuel economy hit. Plus on the 2015 they had to keep the weight in check and deleted several items my family wanted (like the Ottoman middle row seats and the Power Folding 3rd Row). In the end, we decided to go FWD and just keep buying winter tires as we have for upteen years.
The Limited uses 18”x7” +35 offset, 5x114.3 bolt pattern, 60.1 mm hubcentric wheels with 235/55-R18 (99V) tires.
I’m used to going -1 on winter tires when it’s practical to do for a number of reasons:
1) Lower overall cost for wheels & tires.
2) Typical narrower tread patch can mean better bite (downforce pounds per square inch).
3) Higher profile sidewalls can give a better ride on plow blade damaged roads with reduced chance of tire/wheel pothole damage.
The tires size for the 17” wheel is 235/60-R17 (100-102 T or H)
My research seems to indicate that brakes are the same size on all models, so going down to the wheel/tire size used on the L, LE & XLE should be OK. Weight limits are actually slightly higher on the higher profile (102 vs 99). The speed value V does typically indicate a stiffer sidewall (better handling) and better overall construction, but it’s rare to find winter tires in V, and probably overkill anyhow….
One thing became quickly evident; both are the same section width (235). Good for handling on dry, not so good for the desired ‘narrow tire = more grip’. Fortunately, some snow tires have a tread width that’s a little narrower than typical all-season tires of the same section width, so you do get some advantage. Blizzak WS-80 tread patches are particularly narrow for the width of the tire.
So, let’s talk about wheel options. For years I simply placed an order with Tirerack for a “Winter Tire Package”. They have a wide selection of nicely built, good looking and economical styles to choose from. I’ve had several, and they can really spruce up the look of your ride! But there’s a practical downside to custom wheels. If say 2 years from now you damage one, your chance of that style still being current and available is slim. Now you are faced with possibly having to buy 4 new wheels to get you back rolling.
Last year when buying winter tires for my daughters CRV (and knowing she has a habit of curbing wheels!), I decided to go Craig’s List and pick up a set of base model OEM takeoffs. They were relatively inexpensive and will be plentiful for years into the future should she mangle one (or two, or three….) down the road.
So that’s what I decided to do for the Sienna. Look for stock 17x7” 5 spoke rims, Toyota part # 4261108080 or 4261108070. These also go by the designation 69584, 560-69584, W69584, etc.
New they run around $350. Basic wrecking yard finds in “B to B+” condition (light to medium scratches, possible curb rash edges) sell for $85 - $120. Nice take-offs were around $150. “Remanufactured” (take a C+ to A- wheel, sandblast off the paint, fill the damage, grind smooth & repaint) go for $120 - $160. And then there’s the Insurance quality OE Replacement wheels. Often you'll need to add in tax, shipping or a long distance drive.
OE Replacements? I called around and was told that unless you push hard for all Toyota OEM parts, autobody repair shops order Remanufactured or OE Replacement wheels just as they do fenders, lights, etc.
Are they any good? Probably at least as good as what you’ll get from Tirerack or many other tire dealers and custom shops. Several places said they preferred them to remanufactured. They are all sourced from Asia today, made by The Wheel Group, Master Pacific and others that produce their own lines and OE Replacements.
At $125 a wheel (inc tax & shipping), I decided to take a chance. Build quality looks great. Inside casting marks are similar but not identical to OEM Toyota. Weight is 24.5 lbs (about a ½ lb lighter than stock). Some pictures attached.
Next up: Center caps, TPMS sensors, Tires, then mount & balance.
The Limited uses 18”x7” +35 offset, 5x114.3 bolt pattern, 60.1 mm hubcentric wheels with 235/55-R18 (99V) tires.
I’m used to going -1 on winter tires when it’s practical to do for a number of reasons:
1) Lower overall cost for wheels & tires.
2) Typical narrower tread patch can mean better bite (downforce pounds per square inch).
3) Higher profile sidewalls can give a better ride on plow blade damaged roads with reduced chance of tire/wheel pothole damage.
The tires size for the 17” wheel is 235/60-R17 (100-102 T or H)
My research seems to indicate that brakes are the same size on all models, so going down to the wheel/tire size used on the L, LE & XLE should be OK. Weight limits are actually slightly higher on the higher profile (102 vs 99). The speed value V does typically indicate a stiffer sidewall (better handling) and better overall construction, but it’s rare to find winter tires in V, and probably overkill anyhow….
One thing became quickly evident; both are the same section width (235). Good for handling on dry, not so good for the desired ‘narrow tire = more grip’. Fortunately, some snow tires have a tread width that’s a little narrower than typical all-season tires of the same section width, so you do get some advantage. Blizzak WS-80 tread patches are particularly narrow for the width of the tire.
So, let’s talk about wheel options. For years I simply placed an order with Tirerack for a “Winter Tire Package”. They have a wide selection of nicely built, good looking and economical styles to choose from. I’ve had several, and they can really spruce up the look of your ride! But there’s a practical downside to custom wheels. If say 2 years from now you damage one, your chance of that style still being current and available is slim. Now you are faced with possibly having to buy 4 new wheels to get you back rolling.
Last year when buying winter tires for my daughters CRV (and knowing she has a habit of curbing wheels!), I decided to go Craig’s List and pick up a set of base model OEM takeoffs. They were relatively inexpensive and will be plentiful for years into the future should she mangle one (or two, or three….) down the road.
So that’s what I decided to do for the Sienna. Look for stock 17x7” 5 spoke rims, Toyota part # 4261108080 or 4261108070. These also go by the designation 69584, 560-69584, W69584, etc.
New they run around $350. Basic wrecking yard finds in “B to B+” condition (light to medium scratches, possible curb rash edges) sell for $85 - $120. Nice take-offs were around $150. “Remanufactured” (take a C+ to A- wheel, sandblast off the paint, fill the damage, grind smooth & repaint) go for $120 - $160. And then there’s the Insurance quality OE Replacement wheels. Often you'll need to add in tax, shipping or a long distance drive.
OE Replacements? I called around and was told that unless you push hard for all Toyota OEM parts, autobody repair shops order Remanufactured or OE Replacement wheels just as they do fenders, lights, etc.
Are they any good? Probably at least as good as what you’ll get from Tirerack or many other tire dealers and custom shops. Several places said they preferred them to remanufactured. They are all sourced from Asia today, made by The Wheel Group, Master Pacific and others that produce their own lines and OE Replacements.
At $125 a wheel (inc tax & shipping), I decided to take a chance. Build quality looks great. Inside casting marks are similar but not identical to OEM Toyota. Weight is 24.5 lbs (about a ½ lb lighter than stock). Some pictures attached.
Next up: Center caps, TPMS sensors, Tires, then mount & balance.
