Really want to do this. But it'll probably take me a couple of days to really understand what you did. Lol. I'm not very good with wiring. Thanks for doing all the research and figuring it out.
Disabled drl and got factory fogs to run with parking lights on factory switch
3
I did some schematic studying and a little testing of sorts. I ended up wiring the fog lights to come on with parking lights via the factory stalk. I also disabled drl, which is pretty easy. This is on a 2013 se, whether your year the same I haven't a clue. Also, if you attempt to do this don't come yelling at me if it doesn't work. I basically used a couple relays and a diode to boot. I'm pretty sure there wouldn't be a need for the relays but I felt the relays and the way I set it up would keep any kind of redundancy out of the question.
That being said, the factory fog light relay trigger is red/wht pin 40 connector 2f at the integration module (instrument panel J/B Below) behind drivers side dash. The factory trigger from the stalk is red, pin 27 connecter D13 at the same module. I disconnected the red and ran it to my relay, the downside to this is the little fog light indicator on dash doesn't light up. I'm real positive I didn't need to do it that way and will probably connect it back. I wouldn't doubt that the only thing a person would need to do would be to jumper the red to the red/wht but sometimes I don't trust factory ecms and them being finicky so again I used the relays. I also used the high beam to cut power to the fogs just to keep it more along the factory settings. Red/wht is negative trigger and the red throws a ground.
The drl relay trigger is pin13 I basically cut the wire and capped the ends.
That being said, the factory fog light relay trigger is red/wht pin 40 connector 2f at the integration module (instrument panel J/B Below) behind drivers side dash. The factory trigger from the stalk is red, pin 27 connecter D13 at the same module. I disconnected the red and ran it to my relay, the downside to this is the little fog light indicator on dash doesn't light up. I'm real positive I didn't need to do it that way and will probably connect it back. I wouldn't doubt that the only thing a person would need to do would be to jumper the red to the red/wht but sometimes I don't trust factory ecms and them being finicky so again I used the relays. I also used the high beam to cut power to the fogs just to keep it more along the factory settings. Red/wht is negative trigger and the red throws a ground.
The drl relay trigger is pin13 I basically cut the wire and capped the ends.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
5
Ok guys, here's some pics of wire locations and a couple relay diagrams. Again, I set mine up to turn off with the high beams, so the relay diagram with just one relay would work if you wanted them to stay on with high beams. (I might even change it myself) As I said before, I disconnected the red wire from the stalk and ran to the relay vs tapping into it. I'm hoping to re-connect it back this afternoon because it is nice to see the fog light indicator on dash. I'll report back if this causes any issue but I doubt it will, more of a precaution on my part.
Hi beam is that grey wire that I've tapped into
This diagram below is with headlight interruption
Hi beam is that grey wire that I've tapped into
This diagram below is with headlight interruption
I did some schematic studying and a little testing of sorts. I ended up wiring the fog lights to come on with parking lights via the factory stalk. I also disabled drl, which is pretty easy. This is on a 2013 se, whether your year the same I haven't a clue. Also, if you attempt to do this don't come yelling at me if it doesn't work. I basically used a couple relays and a diode to boot. I'm pretty sure there wouldn't be a need for the relays but I felt the relays and the way I set it up would keep any kind of redundancy out of the question.
That being said, the factory fog light relay trigger is red/wht pin 40 connector 2f at the integration module (instrument panel J/B Below) behind drivers side dash. The factory trigger from the stalk is red, pin 27 connecter D13 at the same module. I disconnected the red and ran it to my relay, the downside to this is the little fog light indicator on dash doesn't light up. I'm real positive I didn't need to do it that way and will probably connect it back. I wouldn't doubt that the only thing a person would need to do would be to jumper the red to the red/wht but sometimes I don't trust factory ecms and them being finicky so again I used the relays. I also used the high beam to cut power to the fogs just to keep it more along the factory settings. Red/wht is negative trigger and the red throws a ground.
The drl relay trigger is pin13 I basically cut the wire and capped the ends.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
