DIY: AWD Driveshaft Rebuild

2961 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Leftychang, 6 mo ago

Johnny5

Discussion Starter · Apr 15, 2022 (Edited)

If you decide you want to or need to rebuild your driveshaft hopefully this will help.
Parts needed:
3x SKF UJ10430 Universal Joint (8708.99.1510)
2x ANCHOR 6082 Drive Shaft Center Support / Bearing (8708.50.8900)
Tools:
14mm wrench and socket
24mm socket
6mm hex
Cylinder carbide burr
Ball Joint or hydraulic press

Before removing anything mark the shaft, joints and flanges really well so you can reassemble it back exactly the same.
Pretty straight forward to get the shaft out. My flange bolts had some loctite on them so they were on pretty tight. Used my corded impact to zip them off.
Everything under the van is 14mm including the support bearing brackets.
Once the rear flange and centre supports are off the shaft should pull out of the transfer case.
Some fluid came out so you will want to have a catch pan ready.

My rear u-joint had already been replaced so I did not have to remove any stakes. Using the ball joint press was pretty easy. Only hard part has getting it to sit straight.
I ender up using a couple of washer to keep things lined up.

Automotive tire Bicycle part Bumper Wood Bicycle fork

You can only push the joint so far. To get the cups out I had to use a chisel and tap them from the side and underneath. Then I grabbed them with some pliers.

Once everything is out clean it up real nice and get ready to press in the new u-joint.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Motor vehicle

Note the replacement u-joint has a snap ring. I found it best to push the first cap in a little extra so that the other side has more meat to get lined up on.
When pushing the second cap on the joint will bottom out on the snap ring. You should be able to snap in the second ring and then gently press the joint back so the both rings have equal pressure.

Bicycle part Gas Engineering Machine tool Wood

For centre and front u-joint I used a cylinder carbide burr to knock down the stakes. I didn't go to crazy with the burr and the ball joint press had no problem pushing the caps out.
This might not be even necessary as the caps on these joints can't be pushed out far enough. I ended up cutting both of these with a grinder.

Wood Hammer drill Automotive tire Handheld power drill Gas

Wood Plumbing Bicycle part Household hardware Metal

Eye Human body Terrestrial animal Art Snout

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

Johnny5

Discussion Starter · #2 · Apr 15, 2022 (Edited)

One centre support bearing is easy to get to as its nut is right behind the middle flange. Just zip off the 24mm nut. My parts came with new washers and nut.
The torque numbers I found were to tighten to 181 N.m then loosen and tighten to 82 N.m. Stake the nut.

Household hardware Automotive tire Gas Auto part Metal

Automotive tire Bicycle fork Fender Gas Bicycle part

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Alloy wheel

The other support bearing is a bit more involved. I don't even know what it's called but it's a thing with big ball bearings in it with two caps held together with 6mm hex bolts.
I was able to remove one cap with a chisel and the other side with some heat and a chisel.

Household hardware Auto part Metal Button Circle

You may not need to pull this apart like I did. If you can just get the side next to the support bearing off the hole bearing thing should stay together. My van has 260km so I'm glad I repacked it with new grease.
It was a bit tricky to put back together. If you look closely you'll see two balls get closed together on one side and further apart on the other. This matches up with the grooves on the outer housing.
I had the best luck by bringing the outer housing over the bearings at and angle. This took a few tries and the bearings fell numerous times.

Flange bolt torque is 74 N.m

Beside the ball joint press there wasn't really anything special needed for this job.
Parts only came to $125 canuck bucks which is a heck of a lot cheaper than ordering a whole new shaft.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

greenlight

· #3 · 11 mo ago

I may have to do some of this work on my van; thanks for this writeup! I found a dab of grease on the garage floor directly underneath the driveshaft's CV joint, though I could not find any evidence on the driveshaft itself of a failure.

The "bearing" with the six balls is a CV joint, and it is used to accommodate rear axle upward/downward movement in a much smoother fashion than a U-joint provides. If perchance the boot has failed, unfortunately I may have to replace the entire driveshaft since those parts aren't individually available (unless I can somehow find a salvage vehicle with a low mileage driveshaft on it). Or maybe I'll remove the boot clamp and squirt some grease in there and see how things go.

For now I'll keep an eye (and an ear) on it.

- G

Save

Leftychang

· #4 · 6 mo ago

Just here to add that it’s same u joint for the newer body style sienna as I just did this today to my 2012 xle sienna - and same exact procedure - i replaced my rear ujoint bear rear diff and it was 4x 12mm nuts, and 6x 6mm allen Iused a carbide bit to deburr stakes and punch em out, then used grinder to cut the old ujoint bless this man that posted this years ago!

Save

Reactions: 1

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month