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DIY: COMPLETE FRONT & REAR BRAKE JOB (PART 1 / FRONT)

100K views 55 replies 36 participants last post by  maben1  
#1 ·
EDIT: This is PART 1 / FRONT brakes.
Part 2 / Rear Brakes is located here: http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php/topic,1221.0.html
I split this into 2 separate topics to make it a bit easier to read/follow [Javvy]'s thorough pic narrative. And also because I was having trouble loading/viewing all of the pics combined.
BY: topspy / Mod-Squad


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DISCLAMER: Please!!!!! If you do not know how to safely jack up the van and remove the wheels, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS DIY. I am not responsible for any injuries resulting from your stupidity. Please be at least 8/10 on your technical skill level in order to attempt this.

DIY performed on a 2005 XLE LTD

Tools required:
17mm (socket & Spanner), 14mm (socket & Spanner), Brake caliper piston pushing tool or a C clamp, caliper grease, some WD40, rags & Torque Lever/Bar

Parts Required:

Front and Rear ROTORS set, Front and Rear Brake Pads set, Hardware kit for both front & rear.

[size=10pt]Front Brake Job:[/size]
1. Take a wire hanger and make an S hook as in the pics below you will be using this later on during your installation process.
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2. Remove the 14mm bolt that attaché the caliper to the bracket, these bolts are mounted on top on the caliper pins, refer to the images below.
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3. Slide the caliper off the bracket and the pads, and hook to the wire S hook that you made and hang it on the spring as shown below, this will prevent any unnecessary stress on the brake lines.
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4. Now look at the back and you will see that the bracket is mounted to the knuckle via 2 17mm bolts, spray some WD40 and wait for a couple of seconds. Take these out, use a torque lever/Bar as these might be real tight Refer the pics below. Also remove the caliper slider pins as shown.
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5. Now for easy during assembly of the van at the manufacturing plant the rotors are attached to the hub by 2 screws (the holes shown in pics below). You don’t need these screws. Take a drill bit and drill these screw heads out. You can also try the craftsmen’s tool to loosen these screws but why waste time, effort & money on some thing that you will not be using. Juts drill them out and the rotors are free for any future install. Refer the images below. You can also Cut/Buff Or Sand the rest of the screw down so the hub surface is nice and flat.
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6. Due to heat and rust the rotors are frozen on the hub, take a rubber mallet and start hitting the rotors along the circumference of the rotor, also try tapping/hitting it from inside out. Keep going at it until the rotors are dislodged from the hub.
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7. Spray some WD40 and clean up the hub since you are at it.
8. Now, get to the bracket and remove the clips (Hardware) that is old and rusted and replace it with the new stuff. REMOVE ONE CLIP AT A TIME AS BOTH THE CLIPS ARE DIFFERENT SO BE CAREFUL TO REPLACE WITH THE SAME KIND OF CLIP

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9. Apply some caliper grease to the clip slide points (the surface on which the pads will slide) See pics below.
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10. Now you are ready to install the brackets, but before you do that Slide the new Rotor on to the hub and then mount the bracket via the 17mm bolts use the torque bar to get it on real tight. I generally go by the feel using the same feel as when I was loosening the bolts (I know this sounds like old school but it has worked for me….if you want the exact tightening torque then go ahead and knock yourself over researching it and using it)
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11. Clean the caliper slider pins with some WD40 and apply caliper grease and slide them back into the bracket make sure that there is enough of the grease. After sliding them in make sure that the rubber boot sits properly in the groove of the slider pin (you can also get new rubber boots if you want as these prevent the brake dust from contaminating the slider pin grease).
12. Take the caliper push tool or the C clamp and one of the old pads and sandwich it as shown in the pic below. I have one pic for each type of push tool. Hook up the push tool. Open the hood and open the brake fluid reservoir cap (because as you will push the caliper piston and if your reservoir is over filled there will be some fluid that will overflow from the reservoir). Start pushing the caliper piston till it is pushed all the way.

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13. Insert the pads in to the bracket on the slider surface of the clips that you greased above.
14. Slide the caliper on to the pads and tighten the 14mm bolts attaching the caliper to the bracket. You will need to hold the slider pin with a 14mm spanner in order for you to get a proper fit of the 14mm bolts.


VIOLLAHA you front brake job is DONE………..NOW REPEATE THE SAME FOR THE OTHER SIDE…….remember the sequence…. new rotors goes in first, then the bracket, then the pads & then the caliper.
 
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#2 ·
Re: DIY: COMPLETE FRONT & REAR BRAKE JOB

Ok, here goes....
Why are you wearing flip flops when working on your van? Lol...I don't get it when I see people wearing flip flops and working on their car. Just not a safe thing to do.

Otherwise, good work.

Did you grease up the guide pins?
 
#3 ·
Re: DIY: COMPLETE FRONT & REAR BRAKE JOB

Nice job! :)

And be careful not to breathe the brake dust...and wear eye protection.
Safety FIRST!!

I have split your original combined topic into 2 separate ones....Part 1 / FRONT & Part 2 / REAR.
 
#4 ·
Re: DIY: COMPLETE FRONT & REAR BRAKE JOB

javvy.. That is an excellent DIY instructions. Thanks for the time and effort you put into it (ROBO5 BOW).

All pics worked for me(?)

Open faced safety shoes (optional) ;D Safety shoes "should" be used but it is up to the owner ;D

I think 1 pic can be removed(there is a pic of the power steering reservoir ??)

javvy you are one cool "cat" ;D

ROB
 
#5 ·
thankx guys..........yea I was in a hurry to get this done and that must have caused the error to open the power steering resivour and not the brake resivour..................sorry about that if the mods can remove that pic it will be nice..............lol...aaah as for the safety shoes it was freaking 100+ degrees outside.......plus I had the van perfectly stable on the stands..........buit i hear you guys..........nothing beats safety........will keep it in mind next time......

thankx for the feedback.....
 
#6 ·
bmw....yes I did grease the guide pins which I am referring to as the caliper slide pins in the write up.
 
#7 ·
javvy said:
thankx guys..........yea I was in a hurry to get this done and that must have caused the error to open the power steering resivour and not the brake resivour..................sorry about that if the mods can remove that pic it will be nice...

~snip!~
The link to your pic depicting the power steering reservoir has been removed. 8)
Eagle-eye robo.... ;D ;D ;D
 
#9 ·
mount the bracket via the 17mm bolts use the torque bar to get it on real tight
I am a little concerned that some people will misinterpret the intent of this, and vastly over-tighten the bracket bolts. I have no problem applying suitable torque with an ordinary ratchet handle, and while a very small person might want a longer lever, a heavier person leaning on some long bar could easily apply several times too much torque.

It's like a wheel nut, but smaller, and even wheel nut torque is easy to overdo. Remember that 17 mm is the hex head size - it's only an M10 (10 mm) thread, compared to the M12 thread (and 21 mm hex head) of the wheel nuts.

While using a torque wrench would be ideal, I'll admit that I don't.
 
#10 ·
bmw.....I did not intently grease these they are greased last time when I did the install..............you dont need to grease these but it helps to thread them in by hand to start the tightening and then use a ratchet & socket to tighten then further....it is very easy to strip the bolts if ther are not threaded on correctly on the initial threads..........hope that helps.............

thankx javvy
 
#11 ·
javvy said:
bmw.....I did not intently grease these they are greased last time when I did the install..............you dont need to grease these but it helps to thread them in by hand to start the tightening and then use a ratchet & socket to tighten then further....it is very easy to strip the bolts if ther are not threaded on correctly on the initial threads..........hope that helps.............

thankx javvy
The reason I asked was because those caliper bracket bolt threads should be dry, not greased. If they are greased, they may allow the bolt to work it's way loose. Grease will make it easy to install/remove, but also easier to fall out under repeated brake cycles.

Just looking out for you....

If it was my van, I would pull those out and clean them with degreaser, clean out the threaded holes with greaser and reinstall.
 
#12 ·
bmw will do...........thankx for clarifying..........I didn't know that.........it is all a learning curve................but that dame bolt is put on real tight using the torque bar................but will definately do what you said..........
 
#16 ·
boston850 said:
Just wondering what people think about applying anti-seize compound to caliper bolts?
I understand why grease is bad (if under torque- they back out, if over torque - the could fail)
I think that's a perfectly good idea, as long as not too much is used, and one is careful to avoid over-torquing... perhaps considering using a torque wrench instead of just guessing as I think most of us would normally do for a caliper bolt.

Since caliper bolts are removed very infrequently, they seem like good candidates for anti-seize compound to ensure that they can be removed a few years later.
 
#18 ·
Having done countless brake jobs, including 2 on our Sienna, I'd like to add a very important step. The brake pedal will go to the floor on the first push. Once both sides are done, start the vehicle and pump the pedal several times until it returns to it's orginal position before test driving!!

Also...just a tip: When reinserting the slide-pins make sure you DO NOT squeeze the air out of the boots. This will create a slight vacuum, not allowing the caliper to slide quite as freely. If the pins are lubed enough and there is air in the boots the pins will actually spring back on there own when pushed in. Just try it out before you install the caliper.
 
#19 ·
Re: DIY: COMPLETE FRONT & REAR BRAKE JOB

topspy said:
Nice job! :)
I have split your original combined topic into 2 separate ones....Part 1 / FRONT & Part 2 / REAR.
Ummm yeah nice job. As he said, this was the ORIGINAL DIY back on siennaclub. This is actually WAY better then the one you guy's have stickied by Smackboy1 (topic=375 msg2150). Smackboy1 seems to think removing your rotor and having Pepboys, Autozone or OReiley's resurface it is best left for qualified professionals.
 
#20 ·
You have a better memory than I do as far as it being one of the original DIYs from the old site.

I commended [javvy] for taking the time to contribute his experience and step-by-step guide....and with pics. Not everyone takes the time to stop and take pics and do a lengthy write-up.

We occasionally "sticky" a topic when one of the admins/mods feels a topic is extremely popular/important/timely, or by request. When we have time (rarely), we sometimes go back and review and may change things as may be necessary. These are all part of the continuous site improvement process for SiennaChat. Many of them are subjective judgments.

I am not as knowledgeable on the efficacy of [javvy]'s methods/narrative vs [Smackboy1]'s as I would like to be, and will leave that determination and comparison up to my colleagues and those members that are much more experienced in brake jobs than I am. However, I do believe that even if there are different presentations with varying degrees of quality, EACH is worthy of consideration and is of value as a reference. ALL levels of experience, knowledge, and helpful advice are appreciated and welcome here. Often times, "advice" comes as "opinion". We each have one, and it may be different from what others might feel is the best way to resolve an issue or problem.

topspy/Mod-Squad 8)
 
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#22 ·
Wow: Slotted & cross-drilled rotors on a Sienna!

Just read thru it, and very nice job. In addition to what has already been said, if I might, I'd like to add just a couple of minor comments:


Step #5-6) If you have time, apply a little WD-40 at the hub where it meets the rotor and let it work in prior to whacking the rotor with a mallet. A ridge of corrosion develops here that quiet effectively 'cold welds' the parts together. You can also apply just a little to the base of the 5 lug studs to soak in behind the rotor. This is especially helpful if you do intend to turn the rotors and reuse them. There are also two 'drive-out' threaded spots on the rotor that help to push it away from the hub. Bolt size varies by mfgr.

When done, get as much off as possible from the studs before putting the wheels back on (lug nut torque spec is for 'clean/dry' threads). A comment on resurfacing - very difficult to do with slotted rotors! While there is some operational benefit to fancy rotors, they are more likely to end up being single use.

Step #8-9) When you take out the stainless steel pad slider springs, clean the channels in the carrier bracket well (I use a fine square file) and apply a very thin film of the high temp brake grease before snapping the new springs into place. This additional step also helps to prevent rust growth and pressure from causing pad binding and premature wear.

Step #12 ) Use a clean, new turkey baster to remove some of the brake fluid in the reservoir to keep it from overflowing when compressing the pistons. While a full brake bleed should be done to get rid of contaminated fluid, sucking out the reservoir and replacing this volume is at least a good partial step.

Step #13) I use a little of the anti-squeal compound between the pads, shims & piston to keep things from doing the high frequency vibration dance in the future. This step is a personal opinion thing... some hate the idea.
 
#23 ·
Can someone please point me to the rear break tutorial, part 2 of this topic? I have searched everywhere to no avail. The link at the beginning of this thread takes me to the main forum, but no specific topic. I was able to find the thread through a google search, but the first post with all the pictures and write up were not shown. Any help would be appreciated or even a link to a write up from a different user. TIA!
 
#24 ·
Last time i did mine - I already knew I was going to replace the rotors. So, before I took the Calipers off, I backed the bolts(guide pins) out almost all the way and used a large screwdriver to gently pry between the rotor and caliper. This pushed the piston back in before i even took the caliper off. Simple time saver.
 
#25 ·
so how do I actually take the rotor out.
it mentioned there are two screws (that are no use by all mean) I just don't know how to take it out.
Sounds like use just drill through it? I am a bit confussed.
So in order to have the rotor out, we HAVE to drill out those two screws? How hard is it? Will a 18V drill works?
More help on this please :)
 
#48 · (Edited)
so how do I actually take the rotor out.
it mentioned there are two screws (that are no use by all mean) I just don't know how to take it out.
Sounds like use just drill through it? I am a bit confussed.
So in order to have the rotor out, we HAVE to drill out those two screws? How hard is it? Will a 18V drill works?
More help on this please
Thanks very much - sure made my job easy!
I found the disk stuck to the hub and pounding didn't loosen it, so I ran two screws into the threaded holes in the old disk left for the purpose of loosening the disk. I turned the two bolts (same size as the bolts for removing the rear drums but I can't remember the size, sorry) until each clanked and the disk came loose.
Fyi this bolt works in the rotor screw holes:

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It took me only a few seconds to free each rotor from the hub.
 

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#26 ·
Depending on the vehicle, there are one or two small philips head screws that hold the rotor to the hub. These are essential during auto assembly to keep the rotor firmly in place until the tires are installed sometime down the production line. After the wheels are torqued down and a little rust forms, the rotors stay in place. Before that, they are likely to fall off and break someone's foot!

As these screws are likely rusted in place, an air impact gun with a philips #2 or #3 bit will zip them out. Before I had air impact gear, I used a handheld hammer type impact driver. And before that my trusty all metal housing single speed 1/4" drill. Yes, I'm old... A little oil on the drill bit makes drilling easier and saves the bit. But if you are intending to reuse those rotors, tossing around oil might not be the best choice.

Other rotors I've encountered had two threaded spots for driving out the disk from the hub so that you didn't have to use a mallet to beat them off. Didn't see that on Javvy's pictures. On really stuck rotors, I had to apply a little bit of Kroil to the center hub interface and come back in an hour. I now apply a touch of anti-sieze to the spot before reassembly.