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My 2011 Sienna was stolen, smashed up, and fully repaired. Since then I kept getting an intermittent door alarm from the rear hatch. The service dept. said I needed a new latch assy. ... over 600 bucks installed.

After the repair, I inspected the old latch assy. and found no fault. Normally, when the trunk is closed, and latched, the alarm line is "open" (no connection to GND.). Therefore a "poor" connection could not have caused the problem. [The line switches to GND (or a common terminal anyway) when the trunk is open or unlatched and sends the alert.]

The service advisor insists that this problem is NOT related to the accident ... so I can't claim it on insurance.

I don't think the latch assy. needed to be replaced. There may have been an intermittent short to GND somewhere upstream on the wire ... possibly at the connector.)

Has anyone else run across this problem? Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks,
Terry from Toronto
 

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As you state, the Power Back Door (PBD) system has to send the door open signal to the Body ECU to provide the "hatch open" signal. The dealer simply guessed that the latch mechanism was not fully closing the door or the switch was bad and was providing a false signal.

The PBD latch switch, position switch, and courtesy switch all connect to the PBD ECU. The PBD ECU communicates with the Body ECU via the medium speed CAN Bus. This arrangement means the problem is most likely between the courtesy switch and the PBD ECU. The Back Door Lock Assembly contains the Back Door Lock Motor, Latch Switch, Position Switch, and Courtesy Switch.

Latch Switch -- Detects if the back door is ajar.

Position Switch -- Detects the initial (neutral) position of the driven gear of the back door lock motor. The switch turns on when the back door lock operates to the open side, and turns off when it operates to the close side.

Courtesy Switch -- Detects whether the back door is open or closed. This switch turns on when the back door is open or ajar and turns off when the back door is closed.

To understand what these switches do, here is the closing sequence logic.

(1) The back door is manually closed to a predetermined position when the power back door control switch or the power back door button are pressed for 0.8 seconds or more, or when the power back door closer switch is pressed when the back door is opened.

(2) The power back door warning buzzer, wireless door lock buzzer and built-in buzzer sound for 0.8 seconds. The hazard warning lights will flash twice simultaneously with the start of the operation.

(3) The power back door warning buzzer turns the magnetic clutch on and actuates the power back door motor to start closing the back door.

(4) Upon detecting the door position ajar when latch switch changes from on to off, the power back door ECU will reduce the output of the power back door motor and starts the back door lock motor. Then, the switch will stop the power back door motor.

(5) Upon detecting that the courtesy switch has switched from on to off, the power back door ECU will turn the magnetic clutch off.

(6) Upon detecting that the door is in the fully closed position when the latch switch has turned to over stroke and switched from off to on, the power back door ECU will stop the back door lock motor.

(7) The power back door ECU will reverse the back door lock motor, and releases the over stroke of the latch.

The PBD ECU is in the Power Back Door Unit Assembly. The Power Back Door Unit Assembly contains the Power Back Door Motor, Magnetic Clutch, Hall IC, and Built-in Buzzer. I would check the condition of the connectors and wire bundle between the Back Door Lock Assembly and the PBD Unit Assembly. Look at the wire bundle in the back door, where it transitions to the body at the top, and where it runs down the driver side of the body door frame to the PBD Unit Assembly.
 

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I am having the same problem where the rear door open warning comes and goes. It typically happens when I make a sharp left turn or sometimes when I hit a bump on the road. Sounds like it's switch related but don't know if the switch is bad or the mechanical trigger which actuates the switch. Wondering if squirting some WD-40 in the latch would help. Worth a try.
 

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It seems there's an issue with the new generation Sienna Lift Gate Latch assembly which causes false gate open alarm even when the lift gate is closed. Problem happens while driving, making turns and going over bumps. I decided to tackle this after seeing that the replacement part cost $350. I didn't want to spend that kind of money on a part simply to get a courtesy alarm and that too a false one. After carefully removing the rear panel (whole bunch of trim clips), I took out the latch assembly which has a three wire connector. I examined the unit and it's sealed and you really can't get into it unless you want to bastardize with a dremel which I didn't want to do. So a quick an easy fix was to simply clip the wire that sends the signal to the computer. The three wires are Wht/blk , Blue & White. The wire that you want to clip is the White (without stripe). You can clip the wire further away from the connector in the corrugated cable organizer and put a piece of electrical tape on it. Now I don't have that annoying alarm that keeps going off. My car has less than 30K and I am past my warranty period. Another quality/design issue IMO.
 

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So a quick an easy fix was to simply clip the wire that sends the signal to the computer. The three wires are Wht/blk , Blue & White. The wire that you want to clip is the White (without stripe). You can clip the wire further away from the connector in the corrugated cable organizer and put a piece of electrical tape on it. Now I don't have that annoying alarm that keeps going off.
This worked perfectly for me on my 2011 Sienna. No more annoying alarm/dome light going on spontaneously and it was free!

Thanks,

Michael
 

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I have the same issue, once in a while the door indicator shows as open an dome lights come on, the car can not be locked with remote control (long beep instead)... I noticed, however, that if I turn on the lights (head lights), the rear door indicator turns off (both in the dash and on the center screen), as if some one shut the door (which is closed already). Turning lights back off makes the door come open again... (even though it is closed)... after a few hours the door indicator starts working normal again showing door is properly closed... Would this be solvable with cutting the wire off as well? I wonder because it seems it fixes self when lights are on, so it feels more like a short somewhere, how ever it can come on and off with absolutely no movement to the van.... it can come on while parked and alarmed and all of a sudden (no one touched the van) the indicator comes on and triggers the alarm.... We've also replaced the lock with another used lock and also have the same intermittent behavior (mostly functions well, except it doesn't in most inopportune times, like middle of night causing the alarm to go off)... How would one investigate the cause (what wires would be crossed for head lights and rear lock to interact in such way?

Could any of you good peoples that have snipped the wire :) want to re-attach it to see if the problem goes away as the lights come on? :)
 

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So a quick an easy fix was to simply clip the wire that sends the signal to the computer. The three wires are Wht/blk , Blue & White. The wire that you want to clip is the White (without stripe).
Excellent idea - thank you, worked wonderfully for me! Didn't even take the entire panel off...just unsnapped four clips along bottom of door and had enough room clip the wire in the latch and then reassemble all. Took less than 30 minutes. Thank you for sharing!!:)
 

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It seems there's an issue with the new generation Sienna Lift Gate Latch assembly which causes false gate open alarm even when the lift gate is closed. Problem happens while driving, making turns and going over bumps. I decided to tackle this after seeing that the replacement part cost $350. I didn't want to spend that kind of money on a part simply to get a courtesy alarm and that too a false one. After carefully removing the rear panel (whole bunch of trim clips), I took out the latch assembly which has a three wire connector. I examined the unit and it's sealed and you really can't get into it unless you want to bastardize with a dremel which I didn't want to do. So a quick an easy fix was to simply clip the wire that sends the signal to the computer. The three wires are Wht/blk , Blue & White. The wire that you want to clip is the White (without stripe). You can clip the wire further away from the connector in the corrugated cable organizer and put a piece of electrical tape on it. Now I don't have that annoying alarm that keeps going off. My car has less than 30K and I am past my warranty period. Another quality/design issue IMO.
hi, do you have a youtube page so i can watch the steps. I am completely not familiar with all these, but i want to fix mine.
 

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Same here! It was working for me!!!
Thank you!
Me too. What a relief! I've been fussing with it for a year in my 2011 Sienna, and the problem is worse (constant) in the summer heat. Clipped the white wire, and now the van thinks the door is always closed instead of always open. The latch and lock still work as intended, so this had no effect on function, other than the false "open" alarm. Brilliant!

I had previously tried just disconnecting it entirely, but although that silences the alarm, it also prevents opening from outside, which makes it quiet but useless (you can't open it from the inside unless the panel is off, so don't close the door until you've tested everything with the panel OFF).

For those looking for instructions on removing the panel, you'll find video instructions on youtube. It's not that difficult, but requires courage to pull hard enough to release the little plastic connectors. Once you get one of them off (I suggest a bottom corner) you can feel where to pull the next. No tools required, but be gentle. There are secondary clips that hold the panel from falling off completely until you've got the delicate ones and the connections to the upper panel released.

Thanks so much for sharing your solution, and thanks to the OP for the question.
 

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So a quick an easy fix was to simply clip the wire that sends the signal to the computer. The three wires are Wht/blk , Blue & White. The wire that you want to clip is the White (without stripe). You can clip the wire further away from the connector in the corrugated cable organizer and put a piece of electrical tape on it. Now I don't have that annoying alarm that keeps going off. My car has less than 30K and I am past my warranty period. Another quality/design issue IMO.
Thank you so much
My Sienna 2011 got the same problem with annoying beeps when driving with window rolling down, going over bumps and especially in summer time.
This is a simple fix that only took less then 15 min to complete. No more false alarm sound.
Now, I have to get used to driving without beeps! Hehehe

Andy
 

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My wife is experiencing this exact issue. I found that when the windows were down is when it was at its worse so I went to the back of the vehicle while in motion and pushed the door. The alarm went off. I thought it was the rubber bumpers because they were deformed and pushed down so I put some duck tape to make up the gap. That did indeed work.

Seeing everyone here with the same complaints, I'm going to do the wire cut too. I'm not a fan of doing that but if it allows the car to be more secure (alarm on vs off) because the issue continues due to a lot of use, this is the way to go. Spending any money to fix a very obvious defect is just going to result in the same issue down the road. Similar to that faulty wiring under the hood that sets the alarm off.

Thanks to slcidea for that solution!
 

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Quick tutorial, sorry no video or pics but this wasn't that hard. You'll probably going to need handy, a long end needlenose, a flat head screw driver, electrical tape, and a razor blade.

No tools necessarily needed here. You don't have to pull the entire panel inside off the liftgate. Just the bottom section and not in its entirety either. Start either in the middle or the bottom corners but beware of one thing; there is 2 blocky "L" hinges (near the corners) on each side besides the round clips. Once enough clips are off on the bottom, push the panel in and down to remove those two clips out of their holes.

Near the liftgate hatch, you'll see the three wires, as mentioned above by another poster (blue, white, and white with black stripe). Your going to be cutting the all white wire. The best way and cleanest way to get at it, is to back up and take the black plastic wiring protector/cover off. Its up to you, if able to get in there but I took the white plastic "L" clip holding the section of the wiring to the liftgate to give me more room to play. Just feel behind the clip and pull the shortest end down, hand or flat head screw driver should work. I mangled mind without knowing it was not round but it went back in okay.

From there is black tape holding the plastic wires protector closed, cut it open carefully with a razor and expose those three wires. Before I cut the wire, I put the car on with the sensor active. For me, I just like having that confirmation it went off before I put everything back together. Those panel clips usually break on the first or second round of being pulled out so its best to be safe than sorry.

Time to cut the wire. DOUBLE make sure you have the right wire before cutting it. These wires are pretty thin so its easy to miss that black stripe on that other one. Again, cut the ALL WHITE wire. The sensor should go off.

Use the electrical tape to tape up both ends of the now cut white wire. Stuff it back inside the black protective wiring and tape that up like it was before.

Here's where the flat head screw driver and needlenose comes in handy. Chances are some of those white round clips didn't come off the liftgate. If you take the flat head and push an end down, which should pull the smallest side on it out. Take the needlenose and grab ABOVE the lower two rings and use the flat head on the other side to pull down evenly. That lower rings are extremely important because that's the section that holds the panel on to the clip.

Once you put those clips that didn't come off back on to the panel, put those blocky "L" shape clips in first, line up the round clips into there holes, and begin popping them back in. Your done.

30 minutes is about right but with the above heads up on what to expect, maybe cane be done under 20 now. The round clips were the hardest part because you don't want to break a single one and they didn't come off.
 

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TECH AT TOYOTA, had customer with same complaint after having rear end collision repair, replaced rear latch assembly and fixed issue .
 

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This worked perfectly for me on my 2011 Sienna. No more annoying alarm/dome light going on spontaneously and it was free!

Thanks,

Michael
Hi. I just got 97 4Runner . It didn't come with a remote, but has power locks and vip3000 security. I did a few key in ignition tests and saw that alarm seemed functional. I ordered a remote. It programmed easy I thought. When I hit the lock unlock on it it would just make a 10 second beep. After reading in some forums I found out that it was the door open alert. After checking the 4 main doors pushing in the buttons they all looked good. Then I stumbled onto this forum. I disconnect back tailgate door latch. 3 13 millimeter bolts. That latch pop right out. I carefully sliced open the wire insulation. I saw only 2 wire . A white with blue stripe and a red. I was hoping to see the 3 wires like in above posts and I hesitated a bit to slice white wire that was striped. I cut it with enough space so I can re attach if need be. As soon as I snip it door open light went out. I hit the button on my new remote and locks open and close. I was so happy. I didn't really mess with alarm yet cause I had it in valet mode but I'm happy just knowing remote works and annoying door open sound stop. Thanks for all your help and hope this post may help some1 else. Thanks everyone!!👍👍👍👍👍✌
 

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My 2011 Sienna was stolen, smashed up, and fully repaired. Since then I kept getting an intermittent door alarm from the rear hatch. The service dept. said I needed a new latch assy. ... over 600 bucks installed.

After the repair, I inspected the old latch assy. and found no fault. Normally, when the trunk is closed, and latched, the alarm line is "open" (no connection to GND.). Therefore a "poor" connection could not have caused the problem. [The line switches to GND (or a common terminal anyway) when the trunk is open or unlatched and sends the alert.]

The service advisor insists that this problem is NOT related to the accident ... so I can't claim it on insurance.

I don't think the latch assy. needed to be replaced. There may have been an intermittent short to GND somewhere upstream on the wire ... possibly at the connector.)

Has anyone else run across this problem? Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks,
Terry from Toronto
I'm having the same problem with random false alarms. Driving me nuts. Toyota had told me they have a fix, but will cost around $400. I think this should be a recall.
 

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Same here! It was working for me!!!
Thank you!
Yes, this fix worked great for us too! Thanks so much for the advice and info. For a couple who is not very mechanically inclined, it only took us a few minutes to remove the panel, clip the wire (white) tape it and put the panel back on. Note: be sure to clip the solid white wire as the black/white one can appear to be all one color depending the angle you're looking at it. Woohoo no more annoying beeping in my ear...it's been going on for MONTHS!
 
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