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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been having this issue for a while (maybe even since I purchased used, but it's the wife's DD so I'm not sure when I first noticed it). Mostly noticeable at low speeds, but bumps that shouldn't be that big of a deal are felt very obviously through the steering wheel and also pretty loud. Just hit 100k, and have replaced just about every component that could cause this (to my mind) in the last few months: tie rod ends (outer), control arms, ball joints, end links, struts & springs, CV avles, wheel bearings. Open to suggestions of what this could be or is this just a gen 3 normal thing?
 

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I had a similar experience with my gen3 - a lot of clunky feelings in the steering wheel as well as a single thump at times when coming back to center under certain low speed load circumstances. Finally got it resolved at the dealer by replacing the steering shaft.

They also did sway bar end links but my guess is the steering shaft was the main culprit. Not cheap... about $700, but the improvement is dramatic. 125k and it feels as good as it did at 50k when we got the van.
 

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Been having this issue for a while (maybe even since I purchased used, but it's the wife's DD so I'm not sure when I first noticed it). Mostly noticeable at low speeds, but bumps that shouldn't be that big of a deal are felt very obviously through the steering wheel and also pretty loud. Just hit 100k, and have replaced just about every component that could cause this (to my mind) in the last few months: tie rod ends (outer), control arms, ball joints, end links, struts & springs, CV avles, wheel bearings. Open to suggestions of what this could be or is this just a gen 3 normal thing?
I feel you. I'm about to try to do LCA lol. Sucks , but diy saved me thousands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I feel you. I'm about to try to do LCA lol. Sucks , but diy saved me thousands.
Just did them both. Honestly thought it would be way worse than it was. I think it took me about 3.5 hours for both sides (granted, I have already been in these locations a good bit lately for the shocks, struts, etc., so my familiarity is relatively high). Best tip I can give you is have a nice solid block of wood for your jack to distribute weight (don't jack from the pans like some vids show - the drivers side is easy enough to get a board on the edge of the pan where it meets the block, passenger side is a bit far from where you need to lift, but I jacked from the trans case and it worked). Unbolt the engine mounts (from engine and frame) on both sides. Also, unbolt the center engine mount (the lower one, not the torque mount), but leave the nuts on. Just loosen them. This makes jacking and getting the mounts off easy as can be and gives the extra clearance that the drivers side needs without straining everything else too much. If you have any other questions, let me know and I'll try and answer while it's fresh in my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
These two youtubes were the most helpful IMO:
Drivers:
Passenger:

One other thing these videos don't note, but should be known is make sure both wheels are off before pulling the sway bar link. Otherwise you'll be putting tension on that sway bar.
 

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Just did them both. Honestly thought it would be way worse than it was. I think it took me about 3.5 hours for both sides (granted, I have already been in these locations a good bit lately for the shocks, struts, etc., so my familiarity is relatively high). Best tip I can give you is have a nice solid block of wood for your jack to distribute weight (don't jack from the pans like some vids show - the drivers side is easy enough to get a board on the edge of the pan where it meets the block, passenger side is a bit far from where you need to lift, but I jacked from the trans case and it worked). Unbolt the engine mounts (from engine and frame) on both sides. Also, unbolt the center engine mount (the lower one, not the torque mount), but leave the nuts on. Just loosen them. This makes jacking and getting the mounts off easy as can be and gives the extra clearance that the drivers side needs without straining everything else too much. If you have any other questions, let me know and I'll try and answer while it's fresh in my mind.
Thanks I appreciate it. I've watched a handful of videos, seems easy enough. Definitely easier than swapping out a transmission. Parts still on order, I'll let you know if I have questions but I won't be doing this job until after October. I'll have more time to do the repairs and the Van can sit in the garage while I take my time.

I've been in the wheel compartment a few times now as well doing CV axels, brakes etc. I have most if not all the equipment to do the job.

I just called Toyota to get a quote, $1600 labor. 10hr @ $165/hr. Oh and I have plenty of 2x6 partial wood from building my shed foundation. That should be big enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
"Also, unbolt the center engine mount (the lower one, not the torque mount), but leave the nuts on.". Is this the top engine mount? All the videos mention the lowers only.
No, there are 4 engine mounts: the two (one in each wheel well) that you need to remove to access the LCA bolts, the top one (torque mount) that you don't need to touch, and there's a bottom center one kinda half under the plastic skirt that you need to loosen to make your life easier and to reduce strain from jacking the engine.
 

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No, there are 4 engine mounts: the two (one in each wheel well) that you need to remove to access the LCA bolts, the top one (torque mount) that you don't need to touch, and there's a bottom center one kinda half under the plastic skirt that you need to loosen to make your life easier and to reduce strain from jacking the engine.
Yes, I recall seeing that one while doing the oil liner cooler. Thanks!
 

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Ні, є 4 кріплення двигуна: два (по одному в кожному колісному отворі), які потрібно зняти, щоб отримати доступ до болтів LCA, верхній (кріплення крутного моменту), якого не потрібно торкатися, і є нижній центральний щось на кшталт половини під пластиковою спідницею, яку вам потрібно послабити, щоб полегшити вам життя та зменшити напругу від підйому двигуна.
thanks for advice
 

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No, there are 4 engine mounts: the two (one in each wheel well) that you need to remove to access the LCA bolts, the top one (torque mount) that you don't need to touch, and there's a bottom center one kinda half under the plastic skirt that you need to loosen to make your life easier and to reduce strain from jacking the engine.
Finished the install today.

 
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