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After 130k miles on our '01, a DTC P0773 appeared indicating a fault with the shift solenoid SL (overdrive). I've reset it numerous times but it continually comes back, the transmission shifts fine, but just in case I'm going to inspect it. (Either the solenoid is bad, or the ECM needs to be updated per Toyota TSB EG016-01. I located instructions for removing the valve body and bought a new shift solenoid SL and "2nd brake apply gasket". Once we have some decent weather in Chicago, I'm planning on pulling the trans pan and checking the resistance on the solenoid connector. It looks fairly straightforward, just cumbersome. But I wanted to see if anyone has seen or done this before? (especially since it's very common on this transmission) TIA
 

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Flip,

I've never seen anyone on this forum replace this part. Have you checked Toyotanation and or googled it?

I guess you will be changing tranny fluid at the same time. Since you probably wont know if it's cleared until you put it all back together and top up the new fluid, I would opt for the cheap Dexron III and then if the tranny is all good to do another drain and refill and use a full synthetic ATF fluid like AMSOIL or Mobil 1 Universal ATF.

Keep us posted.

Here's a link to Toyota nation http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92708


And another link from googling "toyota sienna transmission solenoid"
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic516326.htm
Regards, JC.
 

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Thanks. I'll check there too, I always forget!

Yeah, unfortunately I just replaced the filter last year and used Amsoil ATF :eek: Using a cheaper alternative is a good idea, in case I have to pull it apart again, thanks!
 

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Took out the valve body today and replaced the shift solenoid SL; everything was straightforward according to the FSM. Unfortunately, when I was trying to replace the transmission cable, I broke a piece of the upper valve body gasket off.. now I need to wait for a new one. Luckily we have another car. ;D I'll let you guys know once it's done.
 

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I took a few pictures, but it's mostly detailed in the FSM. Mainly where the 6 different oil tubes go. I did find something weird while changing the gaskets for the valve body. The internal oil strainer for the shift solenoid SL is missing. I don't see it anywhere on my workbench so I assume it was never there? In addition to that, there is an excess amount of paint (used for marking parts) on the valve body exterior. I found some of it had stained the internal gaskets as well.
 

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flip240 said:
After 130k miles on our '01, a DTC P0773 appeared indicating a fault with the shift solenoid SL (overdrive). I've reset it numerous times but it continually comes back, the transmission shifts fine, but just in case I'm going to inspect it. (Either the solenoid is bad, or the ECM needs to be updated per Toyota TSB EG016-01. I located instructions for removing the valve body and bought a new shift solenoid SL and "2nd brake apply gasket". Once we have some decent weather in Chicago, I'm planning on pulling the trans pan and checking the resistance on the solenoid connector. It looks fairly straightforward, just cumbersome. But I wanted to see if anyone has seen or done this before? (especially since it's very common on this transmission) TIA
How did you reset the shift solenoid? Was it not shifting into overdrive?
 

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I was resetting the ECU. The transmission seemed to be shifting into overdrive normally, however.
 

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Put the car off for a bit while I ordered a new gasket set for the valve body assembly (not necessary when changing the shift solenoids).

Here's some tips for anyone thinking of doing it:
1) Take pictures of the entire assembly after you remove the transmission filter so you know where everything goes when you're done, the FSM doesn't list each and every piece and the exact routing of all the solenoid wires. This includes;
- All 4 wires, how they are positioned and what side of the valve body the 2 upper solenoid wires are routed from (the 3rd wire is a solenoid on the side, and the 4th wire is the AT temperature sensor)
- The clamps that hold each wire
2) When handling the valve body, take extreme note, the black/green gasket is not metal or plastic, it is a paper gasket that has been compromised by the heat and fluid in the transmission, as it is very brittle, I was careless and broke off large pieces of the gasket that necessitated the valve body be disassembled
3) Besides using the online FSM, try and get a hold of the Toyota techinfo FSM (I ended up purchasing a 15 day subscription) which is much more specific about where each part of the valve body removal and installation. Alternatively, if you are very meticulous about your work, you don't really need this.
4) You WILL need 2 people minimum to attempt this procedure, the hardest part of the entire process is reinstalling the valve body into the transmission while you pull and insert a secondary throttle cable into a rotary cam on the valve body assembly (after several tries, I was able to perfect doing this by myself repeatedly)
5) The best way to reinstall the valve body is to do it on the workbench, but since we're upside down it's that much more difficult, another issue is keeping the upper o-ring in place while you install and screw the valve body assembly into position. I soaked the upper o-ring in AT fluid and that was able to keep it in place long enough for me to install the valve body assembly.
6) When torquing bolts down, the FSM from toyota mistakenly quotes wrong torque specs, but generally speaking, use 58-inch-lbs of force to torque m5 (8mm head) bolts and 8-ft-lb of force to torque m6 (10mm head) bolts.
7) Another note on bolts, there are 2 bolt types, m5 (8mm head) and m6 (10mm head) and there are 4 lengths of each bolt, so you should have someone take note where each bolt goes, you SHOULD only be removing the m6 bolts, the m5 bolts are for disassembling the valve body itself (you will need to remove a couple m5 bolts to remove any brackets that might get crushed when you lay the assembly on a table). If you forgot which bolt goes where, see the picture diagram for ordering bolts at http://www.toyotapartszone.com -> Valve Body and Strainer (ATM) -> Illustration 5 of 5 (bolt part numbers)

Note: I have an Aisin A541E transmission, I don't know how this differs from the Aisin A540E

BTW: Here is a picture of the valve body assembly (The single-red wire solenoid at the upper left is the shift SL solenoid (it's hold down bolt should be torqued down to 58-inch-lbs)


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 

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flip240,

Great write up. Is the tranny all back to together and running? What was the total cost of parts?

I know labour varies especially when you are trying something for the first time. What was the total number of hours you spent researching as well?

Regards, JC.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The car has been driving fantastic all this week.

Getting the valve body assembly out and installing the new solenoid probably took less than 2 hours. Getting the valve body in took me the better half of a Saturday before I realized the gasket was broke, then getting the reassembled valve body in probably took ~2-3 hours of trial and error of figuring out how to get it in with the wires routed properly and making sure the upper donut/gasket stayed in place. Again, this was doing it all by myself, if I had a helper this would have gone by a lot smoother and faster. Also, in hindsight, I might consider using some RTV gasket maker to hold that upper donut in place so I could be absolutely sure it didn't fall out when i installed the valve body.

Also, a note to what I mentioned earlier, the FSM called for a cup shaped particle filter for the shift solenoid SL in the valve body that wasn't present in ours. However, the shift solenoid itself has a built in particle filter so it's not really necessary to order another one.
 

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Put the car off for a bit while I ordered a new gasket set for the valve body assembly (not necessary when changing the shift solenoids).

Here's some tips for anyone thinking of doing it:
1) Take pictures of the entire assembly after you remove the transmission filter so you know where everything goes when you're done, the FSM doesn't list each and every piece and the exact routing of all the solenoid wires. This includes;
  • All 4 wires, how they are positioned and what side of the valve body the 2 upper solenoid wires are routed from (the 3rd wire is a solenoid on the side, and the 4th wire is the AT temperature sensor)
  • The clamps that hold each wire
2) When handling the valve body, take extreme note, the black/green gasket is not metal or plastic, it is a paper gasket that has been compromised by the heat and fluid in the transmission, as it is very brittle, I was careless and broke off large pieces of the gasket that necessitated the valve body be disassembled
3) Besides using the online FSM, try and get a hold of the Toyota techinfo FSM (I ended up purchasing a 15 day subscription) which is much more specific about where each part of the valve body removal and installation. Alternatively, if you are very meticulous about your work, you don't really need this.
4) You WILL need 2 people minimum to attempt this procedure, the hardest part of the entire process is reinstalling the valve body into the transmission while you pull and insert a secondary throttle cable into a rotary cam on the valve body assembly (after several tries, I was able to perfect doing this by myself repeatedly)
5) The best way to reinstall the valve body is to do it on the workbench, but since we're upside down it's that much more difficult, another issue is keeping the upper o-ring in place while you install and screw the valve body assembly into position. I soaked the upper o-ring in AT fluid and that was able to keep it in place long enough for me to install the valve body assembly.
6) When torquing bolts down, the FSM from toyota mistakenly quotes wrong torque specs, but generally speaking, use 58-inch-lbs of force to torque m5 (8mm head) bolts and 8-ft-lb of force to torque m6 (10mm head) bolts.
7) Another note on bolts, there are 2 bolt types, m5 (8mm head) and m6 (10mm head) and there are 4 lengths of each bolt, so you should have someone take note where each bolt goes, you SHOULD only be removing the m6 bolts, the m5 bolts are for disassembling the valve body itself (you will need to remove a couple m5 bolts to remove any brackets that might get crushed when you lay the assembly on a table). If you forgot which bolt goes where, see the picture diagram for ordering bolts at http://www.toyotapartszone.com -> Valve Body and Strainer (ATM) -> Illustration 5 of 5 (bolt part numbers)

Note: I have an Aisin A541E transmission, I don't know how this differs from the Aisin A540E

BTW: Here is a picture of the valve body assembly (The single-red wire solenoid at the upper left is the shift SL solenoid (it's hold down bolt should be torqued down to 58-inch-lbs)


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Hello flip, i have this problem with my 01 sienna, since its been years i cannot see the picture of the valve body assembly you posted, do you mind posting it again? Also do i need to remove the valve body to remove/replace the SL solenoid? Thanks in advance!
 
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