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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does this lower control arm look bad? I'm trying to chase down a wobbling feel.

I've changed both CV axels already. There's no play or sound with the wheel bearing so I don't think it's the wheel bearings.

The van has 75k. From my research it seems this is about when the LCA starts to fail.

Automotive tire Tire Tread Water Automotive wheel system
 

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That bushing looks pretty worn. I did the LCAs on my '11 a few months ago - I bought ones with the ball joints already installed (Moog from RockAuto iirc - $65 each+shipping, though I have heard some people prefer the MEVOTECH ones for a few bucks more). It is definitely doable, but a bit of a pain in the butt. Definitely watch some YouTube videos before attempting - involves disconnecting the transmission mount so that you can jack up the transmission to access the bolt on the drivers side and some similar shenanigans on the passenger side.

All that said, I'm not sure that would be the source of your wobble, but it does look like it's about time.
 

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The LCA is due for a change but not the source of a the wobble or a wheel hop. Assuming tires have an even wear, to further eliminate them as a possible culprit, get them roadforce balanced and if you still have it is very likely the replaced CV axles unless you went OEM.
Chased something similar on a different vehicle for months and eventually narrowed it down to the aftermarket CV axles. Switched them out for re-manufactured OE axles and the wheel hop cleared up instantly. The aftermarket axles were 1/3rd the price but not worth the stress everytime I got behind the wheel. I don't know if re-manufactured OE axles are an option for the Sienna though
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So things I've done , both due to age and good upkeep (buying it used), shocks front and rear, new brakes pads and rotors, new CV Rh (OE), CV LH (AutoZone gold) because it was leaking / torn. New set of tires ( even tried different rims/tires). It looks worn but there's no thump or sound when I hit bumps etc. So it might not be a LCA issue.

The slight wobble/vibration occurred before all those updates. Since I've done them mostly myself it didn't cost much plus my time. The other thing I might think is wheel bearings but there is no play when rocking them lifted . There is no humming or noise. I also tried letting it coast in neutral and changing the gear manually, 3,4,5 etc. No difference, it's always there. Just enough to bother me. 😂

Since I can feel it only when the car is moving whether it's with gas or not (between 25-50), It feels like it's a part that rotates. My wife says she doesn't feel it when driving but I do.

If I drive fast between 25-45 , then I can barely notice it. It's when I'm cruising slowly down 35/45 mph street is when I can feel it. Those are the most common speed limits too.

But OE LCA are about 150 each. I've seen the videos on YouTube, they seem doable. Not that hard.
 

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A bad wheel bearing would typically manifest itself as grinding/screeching noise that will persist at most speeds and becomes more noticable when turning/cornering. Wheel hop related to improperly balanced axles is predominantly noticeable at slow speeds (upto 30 mph), the slower the car, the more you can feel it and it goes away at speeds above 45 miles. Yes there could be other reasons too but if all other suspension components are good then an aftrermarket axle would be my guess

The way we narrowed it down was get the car up on a lift and run it. The hop/wobble was noticeable. Almost ended up getting new wheels/tires. Had to pay the labor twice but was able to get the aftermarket junk back to the autoshop for a full credit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes there could be other reasons too but if all other suspension components are good then an aftrermarket axle would be my guess
I would love to be able to solve this but the problem occurred before the CV were changed. I've had many forced balance by discount tires, nothing changed.

I took the van to a local suspension shop and he drove it and said it's pretty smooth 😂. Again, only I noticed it since I pay attention to the speeds and know exactly what speeds exhibits the wobble.
 

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That worn bushings caused wobble in two of my cars. Question is new control arm or new bushing. Replaced control arms on my 99 Sienna and replaced only the bushings on my Chrysler. Both worked equally well. Unless there's something else wrong with the A-arm, I feel better replacing only the bushing and keeping the OEM control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That worn bushings caused wobble in two of my cars. Question is new control arm or new bushing. Replaced control arms on my 99 Sienna and replaced only the bushings on my Chrysler. Both worked equally well. Unless there's something else wrong with the A-arm, I feel better replacing only the bushing and keeping the OEM control arm.
I checked the prices, it's around $300 for a set OEM from most online Toyota source. That's not too much. I would pay that if it gets rid of the wobble.

I'll have to inspect it carefully again when I have more time.

I didn't think you could replace just the bushing? And that would require a shop to do it I suspect as I don't have the tools to do bushings or a press.

Also, I've bought some oe ball joints , I will be replacing those as well since I already have them.
 

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I didn't think you could replace just the bushing? And that would require a shop to do it I suspect as I don't have the tools to do bushings or a press.
Sounds like your a DIYer, me too. Always a tough call whether to buy tools or pay more. Here's a tool I've owned for twenty five years. It and four long 2x6 boards to dive up on. Toe-in alignment.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sounds like your a DIYer, me too. Always a tough call whether to buy tools or pay more. Here's a tool I've owned for twenty five years. It and four long 2x6 boards to dive up on. Toe-in alignment.
View attachment 58857
yes, DIYer for sure. I can't justify paying thousands of dollars for someone to do a job I can do. Besides, I rather put money into new tools so I can get new tools plus the knowledge knowing I did it. Only time I won't do a job is when I don't have the time or the skills (like engine rebuild). Any case, I try to do as much work on the car (or home) myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here's an interesting post from long ago.


Seems like what I'm experiencing. Slight shudder, bounce, or wobble . On my to do list for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Took a better look. Both have cracks but the right is worse. Even though the car Care nut on YouTube says not to worry about the cracks, he also contradicts himself by saying " if you own a Toyota , you will go through many of these". Lol.

Left side

Automotive tire Road surface Tread Rim Synthetic rubber


Right side
Automotive tire Road surface Water Asphalt Grey


I can order these new OEM for under $300/set. I will order these within the month, then I'll install them next month .
 

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I can order these new OEM for under $300/set. I will order these within the month, then I'll install them next month .
I knew of the Chrysler captured nut problem before trying. So drilled holes in the floor to sandblast the threads, oil, sealed the holes. Bolts came out fine. Two bushings $10.
To be honest the old bushings didn't look that bad and I had little hope replacing would help. But for $10 why not try? Success.
If you do replace just the bushings check they're turned in the correct position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ordered left and right LCA from a online Toyota dealer. I will be installing both when they arrive. I'll go with oem, they were only $136/each . I know I could get other aftermarket brands for half the price but you can never go wrong with OEM. Especially if you want it to last 10 yrs or 80k. I have a oe set of ball joints too so that's going in with the install.


 

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Ordered left and right LCA from a online Toyota dealer. I will be installing both when they arrive. I'll go with oem, they were only $136/each .
Do you mind sharing the dealer. I will at 120K by next year and will be doing the front suspension (Struts, bushings and all). Debating whether to just do the bushings or the full arms. I prefer going OEM as well but if I can get OEM bushings only then that will be a whole lot cheaper
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Do you mind sharing the dealer. I will at 120K by next year and will be doing the front suspension (Struts, bushings and all). Debating whether to just do the bushings or the full arms. I prefer going OEM as well but if I can get OEM bushings only then that will be a whole lot cheaper
 
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