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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2008 Sienna XLE - AWD
I have watched all the youtube videos and read many forum discussions, including many related topics. I've combined and listed various directions from various posts/videos. The scary unknown is how far can you lift the engine before you pull on, or break things, and what if its a AWD? Freaky Deaky!!!

Here are the things I did to lift the engine the least amount and still access the drivers side motor mount and control arm bolts.

~If you remove the control arm bolts at the ball joint, be sure to secure the hub from moving outward (its natural tendency) from vehicle, or it will pull itself out of from the axle inner sleeve (Then its a real PITA to get back in, or you have to remove boot and fit everything back together plus try to get a bunch of grease to stay in boot when you put it back on, freezing it first helps).
~Disengaged air filter and removed screws from air intake plastic. One person recommended unclipping the plastic hose piece at the radiator to prevent breakage (but I didn't do that).
~Put a jack under the engine BEFORE you lower the subframe. Other wise the engine will lower with the subframe and your pulling on things. remove drivers side subframe bolts then rescrew them in 5 or so turns.
~Remove the top engine dog bone stabilzer. or at least one of the bolts
~On the Front engine mount, and Right side engine mount. Unscrew all nuts to their maximum (without removing them).
~Loosen the passenger side subframe a little so it can flex a little more on the drivers side.
~ NOTE: The only other engine mount, just to the rear of the Right side engine mount, was not discussed in any post/video. I left it untouched.
~ I used two jacks so i could position the engine at different angles. This helped with making the hole line up with the motor mount on install. (many others had trouble with engine moving right/left/back/forth).
~ Before lifting the engine I also put a piece of wood between the body of car and the belt pulleys so the engine wouldn't move in that direction.
~ by jacking and leveraging, I got the spacing large enough in order to get my vice grips in there and unscrewed the motor mount top bolt all the way out. this made it so I didn't have to lift the engine the last 1 inch. In retrospect I probably could have removed that bolt from the top with rubber protecting the threads and my vice grip. It unscrewed easily.

~ It also makes sense to also replace wheel bearings (apparently these are a common repair on siennas), the passenger side motor mount or control arm if any of those are showing signs of wear.

I searched the internet for best aftermarket recommendations/reviews.
There's a lot of "for and against" opinions on each of the various brands, but the overall logic and recommendation was stick with OEM for suspension parts.
For control arm bushing replacement, having a machine shop replace the bushings on the old control arms is the cheapest way to go. Part is $60 vs $210 for whole new arm.
I found different toyota dealers have slightly different prices (up to $40 difference).

Best video (although still incomplete):
 
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