[jgwin214]

I just installed sound deadening on both front doors and both sliding doors and must report that it has made a huge difference on my SE. I can barely hear other vehicles passing by. The front Pioneer 6x9s sound better. I can actually turn up the bass. The sliding doors were a pain in the ass to do as you have to keep them slightly open and you have to remove the second row in order to work on them. Looking to do the rear wheel wells, front firewall, and rear hatch next weekend.

I used Ballistic brand sound deadening. Same as Dynamat, just less expensive. Also I didn't have a small wooden roller to press it down so I used a 7 cell remote control car battery with a rounded end. Similar end result.

 

[tonystewart]

All I can say is, thank God I didn't understand any of that.

That's funny!

 

[tonystewart]

Nice work!
I would like to test your lowered spl db levels versus my 2006 Limited which I did years back with similar materials and methods.
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/71-...cts-mods-accessories/4654-raammat-insulation-front-doors.html?highlight=raammat
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/71-...ucts-mods-accessories/4650-raammat-insulation-rear-hatch.html?highlight=raammat
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/71-...-products-mods-accessories/4651-raammat-insulation-floor.html?highlight=raammat
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/71-...mods-accessories/4652-raammat-insulation-passenger-doors.html?highlight=raammat
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/71-...accessories/4653-raammat-insulation-rear-interior-panels.html?highlight=raammat

I am redoing my 2nd row passenger doors after reading about your methods and redoing the rear interior trim panels for a smoother finish. I will be using the MLV Barrier for these two items.

 

[marthafokker]

for the 3rd gen Sienna (got a '11), which insulation should I start first to get most result. Should I start with the floor or the doors?

 

[mowmow]

Shien so how much weight did you add to your Sienna by doing all this ? Have your MPG suffer due to the added weight ? If so by how much ?

 

[luvmysienna]

Had some time this weekend so debating between puddle lights and sound deadening, decided to tackle the latter. Covered both rear wheelwells with rattlemat. While it was easier on the driver side, passenger side was
tedious mainly due to the rear AC unit and duct. The van runs so much quieter now at speeds above 55mph. I now hear more noise from the front footwells and will need to to figure out a way to put in some material in that area and under the front floor mats. The Sliding doors are also pending. Will appreciate If anyone has directions n how to open these two particularly the front footwells.
Meanwhile, definitely recommend doing the footwells. Well worth the time and effort. Took me roughly 5 hours but I worked at lesiure. You can choose to remove the middle row seats or keep them in order to remove the side panels. Getting seats off gives you much needed space and a work area in the van itself.

 

[mowmow]

You took your front seat off ? When you reconnect the airbag sensor, did it throw an error ?

 

[luvmysienna]

You took your front seat off ? When you reconnect the airbag sensor, did it throw an error ?

No I did not. I only removed the 2nd row and folded the 3rd row. That gave me good space to work (and cut the material) inside the car.

Just located directions to remove the sliding door panel for a 2nd Gen Sienna. Will check and am thinking it will be the same. Will try as soon as I can. Not sure what needs to be done to access the front wheel wells. If I do remove the front seats, can the airbag warning be reset using Toyota Techstream or does it need a visit to the dealer (and get charged to reset!!!)

 

[Rhys]

No I did not. I only removed the 2nd row and folded the 3rd row. That gave me good space to work (and cut the material) inside the car.

Just located directions to remove the sliding door panel for a 2nd Gen Sienna. Will check and am thinking it will be the same. Will try as soon as I can. Not sure what needs to be done to access the front wheel wells. If I do remove the front seats, can the airbag warning be reset using Toyota Techstream or does it need a visit to the dealer (and get charged to reset!!!)

If we disconnect the battery cable ( I always do the positive side) before we remove the front seats, shouldn't we be free from disconnecting anything without throwing a code? Can someone pls. share us the instructions/manuals to remove all the trim panels or at least the rear door panels? Tony stewart, Shien , pls. anyone?

 

[mowmow]

If I do remove the front seats, can the airbag warning be reset using Toyota Techstream or does it need a visit to the dealer (and get charged to reset!!!)

Yes, you can go to the dealer and get it reset. But it's the timing that is always bad. I always see the stereo shop do almost a whole day of work and it's when they reconnect everything back things can go wrong and by the time you are ready to go to the dealer's service center to take care of the problem, it's usually close or very close to closing time where the experience tech has already gone home. Sunday is open but usually it's only for oil change and small fix. Toyota may have got better with it where when you disconnect the airbag sensor plug under the seat it doesn't throw a fit.

Rhys
I haven't personally remove the rear trim panel yet but I've seen it the rear trim panels are 2 big pieces that stretch from 2nd row to the trunk area, it should be held by clips and couple of screws on each side. I'm sure someone can give you a much more detail instruction on how to do it.

 

[luvmysienna]

Before you begin, ensure you have a plastic trim removal tools like this. You will need 1 and 2 (from left) for this project

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html

and a good led headlamp similar to this

http://www.amazon.com/LED-Lenser-880002-Headlamp-Black/dp/B0053H1842/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363023784&sr=8-1&keywords=H7+Lenser+LED+headlight

Also try to do this on a warm to hot day.Plastic becomes brittle in cold and you are much likely to break tabs and clip holders. You can leave the van in Sun for a couple of hours and then attempt it

The rear trim piece is one piece from 2nd row all the way back to the hatch. It has only two bolts, one on each side, the one for the third row seatbelts that goes into roof. Unscrew the bolt (14mm I think) and let the belt slide in the roof. Everything else is clips.

You have to first remove the trim pice on the second row floor, by the sliding door. Gently tug on it and remove it upwards pulling towards the roof Then, loosen the floor trim on the rear hatch.

Next, remove the inserts you see in the side trim. There are 3 or 4 on each side. One of the round insert on the drivers side has an electric connector. Unplug it before removing. On the 8 seater, the belt that holds the seat on the side has popup inserts. You cannot remove them out due to the buckle thickness. You pop those out and then let them fall into the void behind the trim. Don't worry, they are anchored to the van so you can't loose them

If you want, pop out the cup holder on the side panel. It is not necessary but makes it much easier to see behind the trim when you are pulling. Now it is a judgement call. Alternating between rear and front, start pulling on the trim from below (in the middle of the trim between 2nd & 3rd row) and on the front side (by the sliding door) and rear side (by the hatch). Pull gently but firmly and try to apply even force.

The trim is held by two types of clips. One similar to the front doors (white ones that go into the holes) and will pop out easily. The second ones are tabs that hold the upper part of the trim to the C-Pillar and the rear pillar. Those are the ones that will be tough to seperate. As you exert pressure, you will see the trim trying to seperate from the tabs. That is when you insert the plastic trim removal tool (I used the second on in the picture above) and they will just pop off.

The last PITA is the rear join where the trim is held on the floor with the bottom trim on the rear hatch. You will need to lift that rear floor trim to separate the side side trim. Another pair of hands will help but not required.

Once you separate the trim, look at all the clips to ensure none is broken and also study there location and how it will go back. I broke a couple but had some from another vehicle which I reused on this.

Additional clips are available from http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Door-Panel-Retainers-67771-01010/dp/B0040CVQ48/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_1


Will try to update with some pictures later. Meanwhile you can use the attached PDF for the XM tuner install which has pictures of where and how to remove the plastic trim. It shows for the drivers side Passenger side is similar

 

[Rhys]

Thank you luv and mowmow,it's still cold here in Chicago so I'll wait a little bit till it warms up to do my sound deadening project.

 

[mowmow]

No problem, you might want to invest in a trim removal tool, a very handy tool and safe a lot of frustration

Your choices of arsenal
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=681556&store=snapon-store

 

[jgwin214]

Before you begin, ensure you have a plastic trim removal tools like this. You will need 1 and 2 (from left) for this project

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html

and a good led headlamp similar to this

http://www.amazon.com/LED-Lenser-880002-Headlamp-Black/dp/B0053H1842/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363023784&sr=8-1&keywords=H7+Lenser+LED+headlight

Also try to do this on a warm to hot day.Plastic becomes brittle in cold and you are much likely to break tabs and clip holders. You can leave the van in Sun for a couple of hours and then attempt it

The rear trim piece is one piece from 2nd row all the way back to the hatch. It has only two bolts, one on each side, the one for the third row seatbelts that goes into roof. Unscrew the bolt (14mm I think) and let the belt slide in the roof. Everything else is clips.

You have to first remove the trim pice on the second row floor, by the sliding door. Gently tug on it and remove it upwards pulling towards the roof Then, loosen the floor trim on the rear hatch.

Next, remove the inserts you see in the side trim. There are 3 or 4 on each side. One of the round insert on the drivers side has an electric connector. Unplug it before removing. On the 8 seater, the belt that holds the seat on the side has popup inserts. You cannot remove them out due to the buckle thickness. You pop those out and then let them fall into the void behind the trim. Don't worry, they are anchored to the van so you can't loose them

If you want, pop out the cup holder on the side panel. It is not necessary but makes it much easier to see behind the trim when you are pulling. Now it is a judgement call. Alternating between rear and front, start pulling on the trim from below (in the middle of the trim between 2nd & 3rd row) and on the front side (by the sliding door) and rear side (by the hatch). Pull gently but firmly and try to apply even force.

The trim is held by two types of clips. One similar to the front doors (white ones that go into the holes) and will pop out easily. The second ones are tabs that hold the upper part of the trim to the C-Pillar and the rear pillar. Those are the ones that will be tough to seperate. As you exert pressure, you will see the trim trying to seperate from the tabs. That is when you insert the plastic trim removal tool (I used the second on in the picture above) and they will just pop off.

The last PITA is the rear join where the trim is held on the floor with the bottom trim on the rear hatch. You will need to lift that rear floor trim to separate the side side trim. Another pair of hands will help but not required.

Once you separate the trim, look at all the clips to ensure none is broken and also study there location and how it will go back. I broke a couple but had some from another vehicle which I reused on this.

Additional clips are available from http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Door-Panel-Retainers-67771-01010/dp/B0040CVQ48/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_1


Will try to update with some pictures later. Meanwhile you can use the attached PDF for the XM tuner install which has pictures of where and how to remove the plastic trim. It shows for the drivers side Passenger side is similar

Thanks for the detailed info. I've added deadening material everywhere else but the re

 

[Rhys]

Sliding door trim removal technique please....

 

[bkwon]

anyone ever try the ziebart sound deadning material sprayed underneath the car?

 

[tonystewart]

I use these to remove panels
http://www.astrotools.com/default.aspx?toolsnum=4524&
With a little tug and these tools I am able to carefully remove any trim.

 

[nickt]

Hi Shien,
I am in the process of doing sound deadening to my car. I really learn a lot from you. Thank you. Could you pls share w/ me the instructions on how to open the panels? I did the front from watching video on youtube but have no clues for the sliding door, back panels and hatch. Again, thank you.

 

[Noses dream]

Does anything think its necessary to use MVL on top of Raammat and Ensolite or will Raammat and Ensolite will suffice? Trying to figure out if Package #1 will be enough for do front doors, sliding and rear quarter panel.

 

[tonystewart]

Does anything think its necessary to use MVL on top of Raammat and Ensolite or will Raammat and Ensolite will suffice? Trying to figure out if Package #1 will be enough for do front doors, sliding and rear quarter panel.

I can't wait to see/read who/what replies to this