Thank you luv and mowmow,it's still cold here in Chicago so I'll wait a little bit till it warms up to do my sound deadening project.

 

No problem, you might want to invest in a trim removal tool, a very handy tool and safe a lot of frustration

Your choices of arsenal
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=681556&store=snapon-store

 

Before you begin, ensure you have a plastic trim removal tools like this. You will need 1 and 2 (from left) for this project

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html

and a good led headlamp similar to this

http://www.amazon.com/LED-Lenser-880002-Headlamp-Black/dp/B0053H1842/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363023784&sr=8-1&keywords=H7+Lenser+LED+headlight

Also try to do this on a warm to hot day.Plastic becomes brittle in cold and you are much likely to break tabs and clip holders. You can leave the van in Sun for a couple of hours and then attempt it

The rear trim piece is one piece from 2nd row all the way back to the hatch. It has only two bolts, one on each side, the one for the third row seatbelts that goes into roof. Unscrew the bolt (14mm I think) and let the belt slide in the roof. Everything else is clips.

You have to first remove the trim pice on the second row floor, by the sliding door. Gently tug on it and remove it upwards pulling towards the roof Then, loosen the floor trim on the rear hatch.

Next, remove the inserts you see in the side trim. There are 3 or 4 on each side. One of the round insert on the drivers side has an electric connector. Unplug it before removing. On the 8 seater, the belt that holds the seat on the side has popup inserts. You cannot remove them out due to the buckle thickness. You pop those out and then let them fall into the void behind the trim. Don't worry, they are anchored to the van so you can't loose them

If you want, pop out the cup holder on the side panel. It is not necessary but makes it much easier to see behind the trim when you are pulling. Now it is a judgement call. Alternating between rear and front, start pulling on the trim from below (in the middle of the trim between 2nd & 3rd row) and on the front side (by the sliding door) and rear side (by the hatch). Pull gently but firmly and try to apply even force.

The trim is held by two types of clips. One similar to the front doors (white ones that go into the holes) and will pop out easily. The second ones are tabs that hold the upper part of the trim to the C-Pillar and the rear pillar. Those are the ones that will be tough to seperate. As you exert pressure, you will see the trim trying to seperate from the tabs. That is when you insert the plastic trim removal tool (I used the second on in the picture above) and they will just pop off.

The last PITA is the rear join where the trim is held on the floor with the bottom trim on the rear hatch. You will need to lift that rear floor trim to separate the side side trim. Another pair of hands will help but not required.

Once you separate the trim, look at all the clips to ensure none is broken and also study there location and how it will go back. I broke a couple but had some from another vehicle which I reused on this.

Additional clips are available from http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Door-Panel-Retainers-67771-01010/dp/B0040CVQ48/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_1


Will try to update with some pictures later. Meanwhile you can use the attached PDF for the XM tuner install which has pictures of where and how to remove the plastic trim. It shows for the drivers side Passenger side is similar

Thanks for the detailed info. I've added deadening material everywhere else but the re

 

Sliding door trim removal technique please....

 

anyone ever try the ziebart sound deadning material sprayed underneath the car?

 

I use these to remove panels
http://www.astrotools.com/default.aspx?toolsnum=4524&
With a little tug and these tools I am able to carefully remove any trim.

 

Hi Shien,
I am in the process of doing sound deadening to my car. I really learn a lot from you. Thank you. Could you pls share w/ me the instructions on how to open the panels? I did the front from watching video on youtube but have no clues for the sliding door, back panels and hatch. Again, thank you.

 

Does anything think its necessary to use MVL on top of Raammat and Ensolite or will Raammat and Ensolite will suffice? Trying to figure out if Package #1 will be enough for do front doors, sliding and rear quarter panel.

 

Does anything think its necessary to use MVL on top of Raammat and Ensolite or will Raammat and Ensolite will suffice? Trying to figure out if Package #1 will be enough for do front doors, sliding and rear quarter panel.

I can't wait to see/read who/what replies to this

 

I can't wait to see/read who/what replies to this

Is it a bad question? lol I've read through the thread but it seems that you can't buy Raammat "roll" anymore as they are sold in sheets. So I do not know how much I would need. Dont' want to add extra weight unless I have to with MLV.

 

Sorry I'm a bastard! Do you know how many questions I've fielded over the years about insulation? Too many questions, very little "doing"!
I've completed 9 automobiles, 4 trucks and 2 motor homes, each with different techniques and amounts of material. Tear into it, do a door, or 2, then re access your needs. There is no right/wrong. In order to do it first you must begin. Everything is on the fly, just do it!
Remember Raammat is for resonance reduction, Ensolite is for sound reduction. Tap and apply, who needs a friggin roll! The sheets are easier. Peel and apply Ensolite isn't what a customizer uses, too awkward. Buy the rolls of Ensolite and a can of spray and get after it.
MLV is for contest winners, not a "friggin" minivan. I'm 52 and I won't have good hearing for much longer anyway, are you trying to hear a "mouse fart" in the 3rd way? EEBSASW

 

I do a lot of car stereo stuff and the best ones to use and not that expensive are murder mat and audio technix deadener, when you apply these, you dont have to cover the whole thing, you do probably a sheet per panel and should not add that much weight. what your prupose is to stop the panel from vibrating to create noise.

 

I do a lot of car stereo stuff and the best ones to use and not that expensive are murder mat and audio technix deadener, when you apply these, you dont have to cover the whole thing, you do probably a sheet per panel and should not add that much weight. what your prupose is to stop the panel from vibrating to create noise.

Excellent advice!

 

Ordered the RAAMaudio Package #2, this is enough to cover front doors, both sliding doors, rear quarter panel and rear hatch with some left over. Was it worth it? I think it was as this reduce road noise. I did not install MLV as I'm happy with the noise reduction.

 

how do you take off the stuff on top of the rear wheel wells? and the front wheel wells? Do you still have the instructions?

btw, im in northern virginia too

 

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

This website explains what each products does for sound proofing.

 

does anyone have the 2012 toyota sienna manual or instructions on how to take off the carpeting and the paneling that covers the rear wheel wells and the front wheel wells/firewalls/center console?

 

Check post #51 in this thread, it has some of the info you need.

 

Thanks ! found it

 

I have left over Rammat BXT II insulation ( not sure how many sheets) and ensolite foam. Anybody interested pls PM me and make offer,local pick ups only. Thanks..

 

Shien,

I have on order a 2014 Sienna and have ordered soundproofing that I used before on my 2011 RAV4.

Could you please email me at dick-n-judy@ij.net the web site for the factory manual?

Thanks,

DBinPalmHarbor (FL)

 

For sound insulation I used DB-3 and a peel and stick metal backed asphalt tape for resonance reduction. All purchased from home depot. I am pleased with the noise reduction and have not had an issues with smell. I am in Austin TX so it has handled the heat just fine.

 

Same here with DB-3 and peel & stick. Quite effective.

 

Just did a few mods to our 2014 SE. Installed RSR coilovers, 20" Weds 709m wrapped in Pirelli PZero Neros, and a citykruizer front lip

 

I just did this on my front passenger door to start with, I used Noico 80mil tiles, Noico CCF and TMS MLV 1lb/sqft, all purchased from Amazon. It's very odd driving with only one door treated. The speaker in that door sounds much louder than the one sitting right next to me and there's an odd absence of sound from that area that feels like when you have to pop your ears because you're not hearing things evenly. It took a little under 3 hours for that one door, I had a difficult time getting the interior panel back on -- I think the driver's door will go a little faster since I can use the passenger side MLV sheet as a template for the driver's side.