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I have 2006 Sienna CE, I need to change the front wheel hub assembly hub on the passenger side. I don't know where to start or what tools I will need. Is there a how to manual I can look at, or a video I can watch to show me the steps to take, or a diagram? Thanks
 

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Why do you need to change out the hub assembly? Is it bent from an accident or is the wheel bearing making a howling noise?
 

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It's making a loud noise, you can really hear it when you first take off, and it's shaking really bad. From time to time the steering gets lose, I just changed the brake pads and rotors, but when I push the brakes you can hear a squeaking grinding noise.
 

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The wheel bearings on our Sienna are press in bearings. Unless you have a hydraulic press or a front wheel bearing repair tool, your best bet is to take it in and have a mechanic replace the bearing. My brother had the front bearing to his company Camry replace for about $400.00.

You can buy a front hub/upright at a junk yard and hope that the bearing is still good. Two bolts to remove the upright from the spring/strut assembly, a big nut to remove the axle from the hub, two nuts and a bolt to remove the lower ball joint from the control arm and a nut to remove the outer tie rod from the steering arm and the hub/upright is off the car.
 

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You are going to need a 30mm, 12 point, deep socket, plus a breaker bar and a cheater bar to remove the axle nut. The 30mm socket is notoriously difficult to find. I will save you a bunch of time and tell you that you won't find it at Sears, any auto parts store, Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. I ended up ordering if from Grainger and picking it up from a local store.

The bearing is around $50 - 60. Expect to pay an additional $50 to $100 if you remove the spindle and have a shop press the bearings for you. Another option is to buy the OEM spindle with the bearing already installed, but this will be close to $300.

If you do it yourself, I would suggest coating the axle and nut with penetrating oil a week or so beforehand, and cleaning the axle threads with a wire brush. When removing the nut, make sure the slot on the axle is facing up. This way, any rust will fall into the slot. Otherwise, the rust might get caught in the threads and strip out the axle, don't ask how I know this...
 

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i bought the koyo DAC4584W-1,($66 per pair on ebay), (if bought at toyota stealership, oem part number 90080-36193, $73 each, but same part number Koyo part number DAC4584W-1 inside a toyota box), replaced it myself at home, and took me about 3 hours per wheel without taking the spindle knuckle assembly off the vehicle using special tools otc 6575-1 (around, $100, note, not the complete kit, just hub puller) and ATD 8625 front bearing removal kit, now the noise and vibration is gone, no need for alignment afterward. i also installed new snap rings and bearing dirt shields.
 

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I thought the deep 12 point was going to be hard to find and started checking with napa, advanced auto, then pep boys. The damn ORielly's 1/2 a block from the house had it.

Make sure you secure the axle or you'll end up messing with a boot.

Removing the nut did manage to destroy the axle thread and the replacement had a different style nut, so be ready for possibly a different size socket.

I didn't watch this in detail, it looks like what I saw on my 2006 but doesn't include the replacement of the bearing. Everything else should apply to removal/install of the knuckle. Also note easy access to replace the ball joint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXhcbGVJpQM
 

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I thought the deep 12 point was going to be hard to find and started checking with napa, advanced auto, then pep boys. The damn ORielly's 1/2 a block from the house had it.

Make sure you secure the axle or you'll end up messing with a boot.

Removing the nut did manage to destroy the axle thread and the replacement had a different style nut, so be ready for possibly a different size socket.

I didn't watch this in detail, it looks like what I saw on my 2006 but doesn't include the replacement of the bearing. Everything else should apply to removal/install of the knuckle. Also note easy access to replace the ball joint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXhcbGVJpQM
Reason, why you destroyed the thread on the axle, is because you didn't un-peen the axle nut. The axle is indented (or peened over) at the slot in the CV joint to prevent the nut from backing out later.
 

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Yes, see this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXhcbGVJpQM

At 7 minutes into the video you can see him un-peening the axle nut. If you did un-peen the axle nut, you didn't un-peen it enough, so it destroyed your cv joint thread and you had to buy a new axle, or you didn't put any lubricant on the shaft such as PB Blaster or WD40 prior to removing the nut.

In all my years of wrenching on cars, never destroyed the threads on a shaft by just removing a nut.
 

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I un-peened the nut, and it looks like jcazsienna did as well. both of us ended up with a stripped axle. The reason for my link and video posted above is that a bearing replacement can instantly go south and turn into an axle and bearing replacement.

Replacing the passenger axle on a Sienna can be several layers of hell if you aren't prepared for it.
 

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I un-peened the nut, and it looks like jcazsienna did as well. both of us ended up with a stripped axle. The reason for my link and video posted above is that a bearing replacement can instantly go south and turn into an axle and bearing replacement.
Correct. Make sure your local store has one in stock before starting. If the nut comes free and happy, support the axle up and towards the trans to keep it in place.
Replacing the passenger axle on a Sienna can be several layers of hell if you aren't prepared for it.
The 2006 was extremely easy, there's but the 1 clip holding it in, came out easily took some work to get back in. Do remember that removal causes tranny fluid to pour outta the trans so be ready to catch and replace it (I used fresh).
[edit]oh, I see your post about that rusting in place. We don't have rust so other's mileage may vary.
 

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Harbor freight also carries the 30 mm 12 Point socket as part of one of their 1/2 inch impact sets.

There are both 12 point and 6 point sets under different stock numbers.
(I actually have both sets, so I'm absolutely certain that's true)

https://www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-deep-socket-set-61903.html

SKU 61903
Brand Pittsburgh®
Coating black phosphate
Material chrome vanadium steel
Quantity 13
Size(s) 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm, 27mm, 30mm, 32mm

They are usually 24.99 for the set, but frequently go on sale, or you can use one of the 20% off coupons that they seem to have every other week or so
(coupons usually don't come up on their website till Friday or Thursday though)

I did my wheel hub (on a 2008 sienna) using Harbor freight's version of one of the bearing removal tools.
item#63260
https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-bearing-adapters-63260.html
pretty expensive, but I've used it for 2 hubs now. (also did a corollla)
You'll need a LONG breaker bar to turn the jackscrew.
(and you'll be turning it for what seems like forever, it's pretty hard work)
(edit ... you'll need TWO long 1/2 breaker bars (with cheater pipes) ... one to turn the jackscrew, and the other to hold the nut that goes on the nut that's on the other side.


Some people have suggested using this hydraulic thing instead of the jackscrew
https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-punch-driver-kit-96718.html

(I'm really not a shill for HF ... but do tend to buy a lot of their tools ... some are junk, but some are a great value, you have to read the reviews)

After the sienna (bigger longer bearings ... so it was much more and harder work to remove than the corrola) I got one of the hydraulic things when it went on sale for the next one if I ever have to do it.

In addition to that, I used a slide hammer hub puller that I rented for free from pep boys.
You pay a deposit, and if you return the tool within 10 days you get your money back.
(Make SURE you check -carefully- that everything is there when you rent it, otherwise you are responsible for paying for the whole thing)

The bearing adapter kit means that you don't have to take the Spindle off the car to have the bearing pressed out or in, so I didn't need to align it after.
As far as the amount of work, it's close to a wash either way, spindle off or spindle on, though I think leaving it on the car is a BIT easier.
 

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Harbor freight also carries the 30 mm 12 Point socket as part of one of their 1/2 inch impact sets.

There are both 12 point and 6 point sets under different stock numbers.
(I actually have both sets, so I'm absolutely certain that's true)

https://www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-deep-socket-set-61903.html

SKU 61903
Brand Pittsburgh®
Coating black phosphate
Material chrome vanadium steel
Quantity 13
Size(s) 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm, 27mm, 30mm, 32mm

They are usually 24.99 for the set, but frequently go on sale, or you can use one of the 20% off coupons that they seem to have every other week or so
(coupons usually don't come up on their website till Friday or Thursday though)

I did my wheel hub (on a 2008 sienna) using Harbor freight's version of one of the bearing removal tools.
item#63260
https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-bearing-adapters-63260.html
pretty expensive, but I've used it for 2 hubs now. (also did a corollla)
You'll need a LONG breaker bar to turn the jackscrew.
(and you'll be turning it for what seems like forever, it's pretty hard work)
(edit ... you'll need TWO long 1/2 breaker bars (with cheater pipes) ... one to turn the jackscrew, and the other to hold the nut that goes on the nut that's on the other side.


Some people have suggested using this hydraulic thing instead of the jackscrew
https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-punch-driver-kit-96718.html

(I'm really not a shill for HF ... but do tend to buy a lot of their tools ... some are junk, but some are a great value, you have to read the reviews)

After the sienna (bigger longer bearings ... so it was much more and harder work to remove than the corrola) I got one of the hydraulic things when it went on sale for the next one if I ever have to do it.

In addition to that, I used a slide hammer hub puller that I rented for free from pep boys.
You pay a deposit, and if you return the tool within 10 days you get your money back.
(Make SURE you check -carefully- that everything is there when you rent it, otherwise you are responsible for paying for the whole thing)

The bearing adapter kit means that you don't have to take the Spindle off the car to have the bearing pressed out or in, so I didn't need to align it after.
As far as the amount of work, it's close to a wash either way, spindle off or spindle on, though I think leaving it on the car is a BIT easier.
Here's a Youtube video on using the hydraulic punch to remove and install the bearing. You will need to get a high strength 3/4" threaded rod to fit the power unit and fit the nut that came with the wheel removal tool set.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1no7NDMbwE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZDK4LyTkRg&t=37s
 

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i bought the koyo DAC4584W-1,($66 per pair on ebay), (if bought at toyota stealership, oem part number 90080-36193, $73 each, but same part number Koyo part number DAC4584W-1 inside a toyota box), replaced it myself at home, and took me about 3 hours per wheel without taking the spindle knuckle assembly off the vehicle using special tools otc 6575-1 (around, $100, note, not the complete kit, just hub puller) and ATD 8625 front bearing removal kit, now the noise and vibration is gone, no need for alignment afterward. i also installed new snap rings and bearing dirt shields.
Hi what year is your sienna van?? I want to make sure the atd kit will work for my 2008 Toyota Sienna fwd.
 

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i have the 2006 le fwd 8 seater, make sure lubricate the thread generously on the forcing rod.
I've done a couple vehicle later my original 3 hours per wheel has been reduced down to 15 minutes after i used the impact wrench instead using a long breaker bar.
 
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