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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last year I bought a 2005 Sienna LE to leave 2800km away (1740 miles) at our summer getaway home in Newfoundland. It was perfect for a vehicle we will only drive less than two months a year during the summer and autumn. I found I loved driving it so much though that I determined to buy one for home in Ontario, but I wanted a newer model since it was going to be my daily-driver. I found a near-spotless 2011 LE in fantastic condition for a great price and brought it home yesterday. The problem is that I have discovered two problems I didn't pick up on while test driving it, both power window related. The first one I'm not too worried about... the driver's-side sliding door window goes down very slowly about 1/3 of the way down, then jams. If you jiggle it it will go all the way down, and going up is normal speed, but it slams into the top pretty hard, so I'm guessing the linkage/levers/track inside the door are loose or broken. I fixed the power-door cables on both sides on the 2005, so I know basically what I'm going to find inside on the 2011 and I expect to be able to fix that fairly easily when the weather gets a bit warmer. I know I will need to recalibrate the window after it is fixed too.

What has me concerned though is the other issue I found. All four windows work from their local up/down buttons, but the only button on the driver's master window control panel that works is the one for the driver's door window. The other three window buttons there do nothing. I have read that on the Gen3 Sienna controls like these are all networked rather than direct, so I am worried this could be an expensive fix, and that I may not have the necessary diagnostic tools to do it myself. Does anybody have any experience with a problem like this, and can anyone suggest how I should proceed. I plan to leave the stuck slider window till it warms up, but I'd like to fix the window control sooner rather than later.

Thanks.

UPDATE: For anybody still interested, not only did I solve the window control issue by reindexing all the windows as suggested by others here (thanks), I also just figured out why that one window refused to go down properly.

We finally had a reasonably warm day here so I pulled the inside panel off the sliding door and had a look inside at the window regulator mechanism as I operated it and the cause was instantly apparent. I've completely removed both slider windows on my other Sienna, a 2006, in the process of repairing both power cables. On the Gen2 Siennas the window glass has a bit of tough blue plastic permanently attached right to the glass with embedded nuts in it so the window glass is really more of an assembly that just a sheet of glass. When you install that style of window you are actually directly bolting the assembly onto the regulator mechanism.

On the Gen3, however, the windows are just a simple curved pane of glass which sits in two rubber-lined yokes which are attached to the regulator. The yokes are tight and along with the rubber I assume they are supposed to be able to snugly hold the glass down on the regulator. On my flaky window though the glass had pulled up out of the yokes and was basically just floating in the guides. When I lowered the window gravity would let it drop about a third of the way before friction in the guides was enough to stop it from falling downward and the regulator was just continuing down to the bottom on its own. This is why I could easily grip the window and shimmy it down to the bottom with very little force.

The rubber inside the yokes was a bit chewed up so I cleaned them up a bit with a razor knife then scrubbed the gritty dirt out and dried them thoroughly. I filled the gap in the yokes with black Goop brand automotive adhesive which is supposed to be good for metal, glass, plastic, and rubber, and then put the yokes back in and carefully lowered the glass down until it was sitting in the yokes at the correct place on the window bottom. Finally I used the power regulator to raise the window tightly to the top and left it there. The package says 24 hours before use but up to 72 hours for full cure so just to be sure I'm going to leave it up for a few days before testing it, but I'm certain this fix is going to be a success.

Between the 2006 and the 2011 I've had to learn more about the inside of the slider doors than I really would have wanted to. LOL
 

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Yes, there could be very simple fix for both of your problems. Seems like your window controls lost their ndex setting. To re-index, you have to perform the following for each window using the switch on the door of each window ( not the switches on the drivers panel, For each window, just hold the down button on the windows until they open up fully and continue to hold it in the down position for 10 seconds. Do not let go of the down button until ten seconds after the window opens fully. Repeat and Do the same for the window up position. Continue to hold the up button For 10 seconds after the window has fully closed up. Do this for all windows with the button on the door of each window (not from the drivers button panel). Hope this will fix your problem.
 

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For the slow window, lubricate the door channel that window slides in. I use a silicone spray or grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
For the slow window, lubricate the door channel that window slides in. I use a silicone spray or grease.
Thanks, but it's not just slow, it's not riding in the guides properly. The window gets a bit crooked and jams. I suspect the rails are broken or a mounting screw is loose or missing. When it gets warmer I'll pop the door panel and look.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, there could be very simple fix for both of your problems. Seems like your window controls lost their ndex setting. To re-index, you have to perform the following for each window using the switch on the door of each window ( not the switches on the drivers panel, For each window, just hold the down button on the windows until they open up fully and continue to hold it in the down position for 10 seconds. Do not let go of the down button until ten seconds after the window opens fully. Repeat and Do the same for the window up position. Continue to hold the up button For 10 seconds after the window has fully closed up. Do this for all windows with the button on the door of each window (not from the drivers button panel). Hope this will fix your problem.
Thanks, I had read about window recalibration but I didn't think it was likely to fix the problem I was having. I noticed today that the front passenger window seems to be controllable from the driver's panel now (it wasn't before), so maybe I recalibrated the passenger window by accident when I ran it up and down a few times from the passenger control. I'll try the back ones too now and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, there could be very simple fix for both of your problems. Seems like your window controls lost their ndex setting. To re-index, you have to perform the following for each window using the switch on the door of each window ( not the switches on the drivers panel, For each window, just hold the down button on the windows until they open up fully and continue to hold it in the down position for 10 seconds. Do not let go of the down button until ten seconds after the window opens fully. Repeat and Do the same for the window up position. Continue to hold the up button For 10 seconds after the window has fully closed up. Do this for all windows with the button on the door of each window (not from the drivers button panel). Hope this will fix your problem.
Thanks so much. As I said I would, I had a chance to go out and try your suggestion. As a side note, I noticed when I was driving home in the dark tonight that the marker lights on the three passenger window controls on the master panel were flashing out what looked like a code. At this point there was only one window left which would not respond at all from the master window control panel, the passenger slider door. When I got in the back to perform the calibration I saw that the marker light on that button was flashing twice and then pausing, then repeating that pattern over and over. After doing the calibration the marker light immediately went solid on, and when I got back into the driver's seat I saw that all four marker lights on the master control panel were now solid on too. When I tried that last recalcitrant window... it worked!!! All four windows now work from the master control panel, when I picked it up a few days ago none but the drivers window was controllable from there. I'm guessing I accidentally did a recalibration of the other two windows when I messing around with them from the local control buttons.

Now all I have to do is fix that jammed window on the driver's side slider. The power button works, but it only goes down a few inches then stops suddenly and you can hear something moving around inside the door when it jams, and when you move it back up again. Sometimes you actually have to jiggle the glass from side to side a little before it will start to go back up.

Thanks again for your great suggestion.
 

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Glad to hear that the re-indexing fixed the issue. It’s a pretty common occurrence when ever the van loses power for a long time, such as a dead battery.
 
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