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Discussion Starter #1
I got a 2002 Sienna I replaced the VVT Oil Control Valves with Gates brand a few months ago and it has been doing well but while I was in there I was going to clean the OCV Filter Screens.

I found the bolts of which they are supposedly located however at the time I could not break them loose and I stopped at that point, I tried searching to find out which way the threads are to see if its reverse thread or not but cannot find any information, even videos they don't show them actually removing it they just show where.

I was hoping someone on here would know is it reverse thread or just regular (lefty loosy) so I can give it another shot one of these days.
 

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No way it's reverse-thread. Let it soak with some penetrating oil for a few days and maybe try to loosen when the engine is warm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No way it's reverse-thread. Let it soak with some penetrating oil for a few days and maybe try to loosen when the engine is warm.
Yea it's just shocking on how tight it is I was worried of breaking the bolt off in the head, and this van has no corrosion either no rust.

I will wait until some warmer weather again to get in there and try it when the engine is warm.
 

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Maybe you're better off leaving well enough alone--unless you're having some issues with performance or getting error codes.
 

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Maybe you're better off leaving well enough alone--unless you're having some issues with performance or getting error codes.
Already had to replace the VVT oil control valves due to failures, and the vehicle is making a valve rattle when cold, but is fine when warm so I am thinking the screens might be partially clogged and because I am running conventional oil it is not flowing quick enough due to the partial clog but I do not want to switch to synthetic this van has run conventional it's whole life and if there is any sludge I do not want the synthetic to break up the sludge and cause problems.

Even though it has had oil changes every 3,000 mile according to records knowing now these engines are prone to sludge I don't trust the switch. This is an early 2002 before the PCV design was changed and although I replaced the PCV valve which seemed to be original and it was not stuck and was working I am not sure if there is sludge I cannot see without taking the valve covers off and I won't be doing that until spring and warmer weather.
 

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Maybe you're better off leaving well enough alone--unless you're having some issues with performance or getting error codes.
Took the van out got it to full operating temperature, let it sit for about 10 minutes and the bolts came loose. Heat was the trick.

Both the screens were clogged the front one about 60% clogged, the back one about 75-80% clogged. Hit them with break clean and now they are pretty much clean. Although the engine was still warm and it doesn't do any rattle when warm it fired right up and sounded good even when revving it to higher RPM no valve noise. But I am pretty certain that these screens are what caused the VVT solenoid to fail in the first place so hopefully the new ones last.

Now the test is going to be a cold start and see if it rattles when it reaches around 2,000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is the rattling gone?
No it is still rattling when cold at over 2,000rpm it is top end rattle but when warm it is fine.

I was thinking on switching to synthetic blend high mileage oil but this van does not have any leaks at all and I am worried that the seal conditioners in high mileage oil will cause the non leaking seals to leak.

Also considering Lucas oil stabilizer they have both regular and synthetic but I am not sure if this will harm the VVT.
 

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I've been using castrol high mileage oil (5W30) for years now. It is a synthetic blend. Lately though, and I maybe criticized for this , I have been adding 1 qt.castrol edge which is 100% synthetic when I do my oil changes , this along with 4 qts high mileage.
 

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Hi. I have a 2001. I wanted to do a bench test on My VVT solenoids I found them and removes the #10 retaining bolt and I can twist the Soleoid in a circle. But I can’t pull it up and out of the valve cover. Did you have any problems with removing the VVT sensor also?

And I’m having a hard time finding the OCV filter bolt. In the Haynes manual it says it’s on the rear part of each bank. (1 per bank I think)

thanks for your help regarding my concern

Also I test my Fuel Pressure Relay in the Main terminal box. And there was no continuity between terminals 1&2. So I replaced the relay and the engine idles much better now.
 

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Hi. I have a 2001. I wanted to do a bench test on My VVT solenoids I found them and removes the #10 retaining bolt and I can twist the Soleoid in a circle. But I can’t pull it up and out of the valve cover. Did you have any problems with removing the VVT sensor also?

And I’m having a hard time finding the OCV filter bolt. In the Haynes manual it says it’s on the rear part of each bank. (1 per bank I think)

thanks for your help regarding my concern

Also I test my Fuel Pressure Relay in the Main terminal box. And there was no continuity between terminals 1&2. So I replaced the relay and the engine idles much better now.
Alright 1 of my solenoids was stuck in and only twisted around, the rubber o-ring is what is causing it and I had to keep on prying and eventually it came out.

If you are not having any issues with the VVTI then I suggest you leave the solenoids alone, if you want to replace them I am using GATES brand I replaced both but go for OEM if you can afford it.

This video shows the exact location of the OCV screens
, I cleaned mine using brake clean.
 
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