Me again. For the time being I going to just ignore your ethnic comments and lets stick to the business at hand. Whatever your feeling are about this person's former homeland, you need to keep them off this board. Feel free to edit your post as you see fit.
The oil pressure switch is a simple on/off device. As it isn't connected to a meter, it doesn't output a variable resistance reading like the temperature gauge sensor does, or how an electronic oil pressure gauge would work based on the pressure on the other side of the diagram. I'm not sure if it is true or inverse logic, but an open circuit on the switch should give you a light, while a closed circuit on the switch should not. Or reversed... These switches are set at something like 10 or 15 lbs of pressure as the minimum trip point. If the switch really just closes and has no internal 'on resistance', then you could just ground out the wire and see if it affects the gauge. But not knowing the specs on the switch, I wouldn't advise doing this! My thoughts are that the switch is either zero ohms (or very close to it) or infinite. If it fluctuates to anything else, it's probably bad. It's hooked right to a LED in the dash, so when the switch is closed (near zero resistance), you get the light, when it's open the light is off.
Yes, per our discussion on the TN board, a bad alternator can make everything go bad. Some parts of the dash combination meter are microprocessor controlled and highly dependent on quality power, but the oil pressure switch doesn't appear to be. If everything else is working OK, then I doubt that any reflashing or alternator replacement will help this.
Have you witnessed the mechanical gauge on the oil pressure port? Are you sure there is sufficient pressure?
The oil pressure switch is a simple on/off device. As it isn't connected to a meter, it doesn't output a variable resistance reading like the temperature gauge sensor does, or how an electronic oil pressure gauge would work based on the pressure on the other side of the diagram. I'm not sure if it is true or inverse logic, but an open circuit on the switch should give you a light, while a closed circuit on the switch should not. Or reversed... These switches are set at something like 10 or 15 lbs of pressure as the minimum trip point. If the switch really just closes and has no internal 'on resistance', then you could just ground out the wire and see if it affects the gauge. But not knowing the specs on the switch, I wouldn't advise doing this! My thoughts are that the switch is either zero ohms (or very close to it) or infinite. If it fluctuates to anything else, it's probably bad. It's hooked right to a LED in the dash, so when the switch is closed (near zero resistance), you get the light, when it's open the light is off.
Yes, per our discussion on the TN board, a bad alternator can make everything go bad. Some parts of the dash combination meter are microprocessor controlled and highly dependent on quality power, but the oil pressure switch doesn't appear to be. If everything else is working OK, then I doubt that any reflashing or alternator replacement will help this.
Have you witnessed the mechanical gauge on the oil pressure port? Are you sure there is sufficient pressure?