Interesting. The roof console button is wired to the Body ECU which sends a network signal to the slide door ECU. The pillar switch is wired directly to the slide door ECU. They operate totally differently.

DESCRIPTION

• The power slide door operates only when the power slide door main switch is ON (switch free: orange paint on the top of the switch appears). The power slide door ECU RH controls the power slide door RH, which activates the slide door motor to open / close the slide door.
• A request signal from the satellite switch for the power slide door RH is input to the the driver side junction block ECU, which then sends this request signal using a BEAN line to the power slide door ECU RH.
• A request signal from the power slide door control switch RH is directly input to the power slide door ECU RH.
• When the child lock is in the locked condition, the power slide door control switch RH is disabled, thus the power slide door RH is not activated by this switch.
• When the touch sensor has an open / short-circuit, closing of the power slide door is disabled.

1. BASIC INSPECTION

(a) Conditions necessary for the power slide door to open:

(1) Power slide door main switch is in the ON position (switch free: orange paint on the top of the switch appears).

(2) Slide door is unlocked (door lock position switch is in the ON position when the slide door is fully closed).

(3) Shift lever is in the P position when the ignition switch is ON (When the ignition switch is OFF, the power slide door operates at any position of the shift lever.)

(b) Conditions necessary for the power slide door to close:

(1) Power slide door main switch is in the ON position (switch free: orange paint on the top of the switch appears).

(2) Slide door is between approximately the half-open position and the fully open position.

(3) Slide door touch sensor is not damaged and deformed.

For "Power Slide Door RH does not Operate When Satellite Switch is Pressed", the troubleshooting list is

1. ECU-B fuse
2. Power slide door main switch
3. Satellite switch
4. Power slide door control switch RH
5. Power slide door touch sensor RH
6. Power slide door motor and clutch RH
7. Power slide door lock assembly RH
8. Slide door release actuator assembly RH
9. Power slide door ECU RH
10. Instrument panel J/B assembly (Multiplex network body ECU)
11. Wire harness

From your symptoms, I guess it may be #8.

 

+1 for the slide door release actuator.

I had the same problem develop on my 2006 Limited RH sliding door. I followed the excellent DIY from <2004 Sienna> over at tundrasolutions.com (see enclosed pdf).

I did the repair in a little more than 90 minutes. I used 2 high quality Festool suction cups to hold the window, and saved a lot of time in not having to remove the window from the frame (one suction cup marked the place of the bolts, and the other suction cup held the window out of the way while doing the repair). Also, I managed to unscrew one of the screws that held the actuator, but the other screw I had to cut using my Dremel with a small metal cutoff wheel. You will see how to cut it when you have the new actuator part.

PS: I opened up the nonfunctional actuator, and it is possible to repair it by replacing the small motor in it (only cost a few USD).

 

+1 for the slide door release actuator.

I had the same problem develop on my 2006 Limited RH sliding door. I followed the excellent DIY from <2004 Sienna> over at tundrasolutions.com (see enclosed pdf).

I did the repair in a little more than 90 minutes. I used 2 high quality Festool suction cups to hold the window, and saved a lot of time in not having to remove the window from the frame (one suction cup marked the place of the bolts, and the other suction cup held the window out of the way while doing the repair). Also, I managed to unscrew one of the screws that held the actuator, but the other screw I had to cut using my Dremel with a small metal cutoff wheel. You will see how to cut it when you have the new actuator part.

PS: I opened up the nonfunctional actuator, and it is possible to repair it by replacing the small motor in it (only cost a few USD).

We had a similar problem with our drivers-side sliding door. Push the button and the door would pop open and not slide, or slide "most" of the way back and stop. I followed the PDF tutorial. I think the part cost $60 on Amazon at the time? The problems mostly went away right after the fix, but still occasionally happened. Then after a few days... the problem went away 100%. Had Toyota put the two screwheads on the outside of the door frame, this replacement would take all of ten minutes. However, with the screwheads on the inside, it took me about three hours and I had to Dremel off the screw heads.

 

There is also a button placed in the area of the drivers left knee low on the dash that will deactivate the interior buttons of the sliding doors. Took me awhile to figure it out since I did not know the switch existed, not one of those things I memorized from the owners manual. :

 

ybre - you’re right, you can just replace the motor and save a ton of $.

I found a replacement here for $4.62 + 2.39 shipping;

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=PAN14EE12A

 

Thanks YBRE for the file. My wife and kids were thrilled. Just replaced the motor in my '04 Sienna passenger sliding door yesterday.
The mounting screws had some wicked lock-tite. I used a soldering iron on the brass threaded insert to melt/loosen it and slowly worked the screws out. I had to continuously apply heat to keep that stuff soft enough to unscrew them. I replaced the screws with 4 x 20 mm allen head screws in case I had to repeat this.

For my 2004 Sienna, the motor had a shaft with a flat side and no brass fitting.

Took a couple of hours including a trip to the hardware store for the screws.
After doing it once, it should take half the time should I ever have to repeat this.

 

Happy to help! The credit for the pdf file should go to the author <2004Sienna> over at tundrasolutions.com.
Interesting to read about how you used a soldering iron to heat up the lock-tite. I have also read others using a heat-gun with success.

 

I called Toyota parts and they say you have to buy the entire assembly for 680.00$, is that correct. How can I be sure it's the actuator and not just an electrical problem?

 

If you have a power sliding door with the symptoms described above, then by going through the DIY PDF enclosed in post #3 above you should be able to isolate the problem.
If it is the slide door release actuator then it is a $80 USD part and an easy DIY. The part number is in the PDF.

 

Thank you ybre, I was unable to open the pdf before I became a member of this forum but now I am a member and was able to open it. I called the Toyota dealership before I had the specific part number and they said I had to order the entire motor assy for $680.00. Once I could open the pdf and found the specific part number they said that part was $108.00 but I couldn't return it if that wasn't the problem so I am going to open the door up now and do some more troubleshooting before I order the part. Thank you all for your help and info on this issue. I will let you know how it goes.

 

Priceless info! What a great forum!

 

LH side power door (2005 Sienna) exact same symptoms described on several posts.

Thank you ybre for your post solving my problem...the dealer wanted $1,700 and misdiagnosed replacing the main motor/cable assy also (would have been the second time in 3 years, 1st time under warranty).

I followed the directions (PDF prior post) to a tee, the only thing that would have saved me time was to buy the actuator screws ahead of time as I also had to grind the heads off then run to a hardware store. Before I diassembled the door internals, I unplugged the installed actuator and tested the replacement actuator to verify operation.

Thank you, thank you, thank you....what a great post.

 

New Member: did you actually repair your actuator with that motor? If so, I'm ordering it today.
I can easily replace the motor in the assembly, and would like to avoid buying the entire unit for only a mini 12VDC motor.

ybre - you’re right, you can just replace the motor and save a ton of $.

I found a replacement here for $4.62 + 2.39 shipping;

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=PAN14EE12A

 

i have two questions...

Will this motor work for both driver side and passenger side?

If the two screws holding the motor has to be grinded out to remove, then how is the screw removed once the head is out?

Regards

 

<Erik VanR> have you already removed the actuator? If it is repairable really depends on whether you are able to remove it without damaging it, and that you are able to remove both actuator screws from the actuator. The screws that hold the actuator in place has been treated with lock-tite by Toyota. Some have used a heat gun to loosen the lock-tite, and one member <Sienna 04> used a soldering iron.I had to cut one of the screws with my Dremel.
Once the actuator is out, and reusable, it opens up after removing 3 small screws. The worm gear can easily be detached from the small 12v motor, and then it is only to replace the 12v motor with a new one and reassemble. Enclosed are photos (taken before I removed the screw stub left from when I had to cut the screw with the Dremel).

 

I did remove the door panel to inspect the mechanism and verify a pulse of 12VDC at the actuator connector. I saw the Loctited screw ends for the actuator mounting. I figured the actuator housing screws (that hold the housing halves together) were on the opposite site. I went ahead and ordered the motor from Digikey. The soldering iron tip heat application method for dealing with the Loctite sounds like the best method. There are also a few common solvents (MEK, for one) that will help soften Loctite.
My mechanical skills are very advanced (engine/trans rebuilds, axle gear setup, etc.), so this is easily within my skill and tool capability.

Thanks for the info, everyone.

<Erik VanR> have you already removed the actuator? If it is repairable really depends on whether you are able to remove it without damaging it, and that you are able to remove both actuator screws from the actuator. The screws that hold the actuator in place has been treated with lock-tite by Toyota. Some have used a heat gun to loosen the lock-tite, and one member <Sienna 04> used a soldering iron.I had to cut one of the screws with my Dremel.
Once the actuator is out, and reusable, it opens up after removing 3 small screws. The worm gear can easily be detached from the small 12v motor, and then it is only to replace the 12v motor with a new one and reassemble. Enclosed are photos (taken before I removed the screw stub left from when I had to cut the screw with the Dremel).

View attachment 2316 View attachment 2317 View attachment 2318 View attachment 2319 View attachment 2320 View attachment 2321 View attachment 2322

 

Based on the info above, I was able to replace the small 12v motor in the actuator on my 2006 Sienna after ordering it from Digikey. Repair cost was approx. $10 total for the motor, shipping, replacement 4mm x 16mm bolts and lock washers (and 2-3 hrs of my time). I was able to remove one of the loctite screws from the actuator with just a stubby Phillips screwdriver and some force. I stripped the Phillips fitting on the other screw trying it the same way as the first. However, I didn't need to use a Dremel to get the screw out. I used a small Vise Grip plier to securely clamp onto the sides of the screw head and was able to break the screw free and unscrew it with just the Vise Grip plier. It was a small non-long nose Vise Grip plier that I used to clamp down on the sides of the screw head (used the tip of the plier where there are some teeth that can bite down slightly into the sides of the screw head). The Vise Grip plier allowed me to turn the screw off with greater leverage than possible with a screwdriver.
This is a fantastic post that saved me a large sum of money from what the dealer would have charged. Hope this Vise Grip tip helps others as it did me. If I had to do it again, I would use the Vise Grip plier method first.
Thanks for everyone's prior input to make this diy possible.

 

Hey guys,

Thanks so much for this PDF and actuator pics. I just finished my '05 in under 2 hours, with zero complications and almost $10 spent. Can't thank you enough!

 

And to think that next week Toyota would have done this entire repair for you for free! I guess you can at least put in a claim for the motor, although I doubt that they will comp you for the labor you did.

 

And to think that next week Toyota would have done this entire repair for you for free! I guess you can at least put in a claim for the motor, although I doubt that they will comp you for the labor you did.

I am sure one can survive without the $10 refund (part plus shipping), and the 2 hours spent doing this DIY gives one a priceless DIY pride.

However, I am very happy that Toyota has extended the warranty on the latch release to 9 years since first day of service. More info is found here http://www.siennachat.com/forum/64-...enna/9534-04-10-sienna-extension-warranty-coverage-rear-sliding-door-parts.html

 

I dropped off 2004 Sienna today and dealership tells me actuator is not covered in the extended warranty.

 

I find this very strange. Did you bring the pdf from the link above / letter from Toyota. It clearly states
"• Certain 2004 to 2010 Model Year Sienna Vehicles Extension of Warranty Coverage for Rear Sliding Door Latch Assembly"

 

Just replaced the 85620-08061 MOTOR ASSEMBlY, SLIDE DOOR CONTROL on our 2005 sienna. I was able to use a heat gun on the loctite screws so that I could remove them cleanly without having to replace. Thank you so much for the detailed instructions!!

Our dealer quoted $1,400 (I did it for $92 + 2.5 hours labor) and said that they would have to completely remove the door and replace the 69200-08011 passenger side door lock actuator as well to fix the problem (not at all true). I would be embarrassed to tell a customer they needed to spend that much money when I knew it was actually a fraction of that price. TOYOTA: there must be an bad acronym in there somewhere...

 

I took my 2005 XLE limited to the dealer with the same symptoms (power doors open only with handles, not with the buttons) thinking it would be covered by the warranty extension. No such luck. The dealer AND Toyota corporate said that the door latch MOTOR is not covered. Only the Cable assembly and Door Latch. Luckily, the dealer said that it was $262 for parts and labor to fix, unlike some of you guys who were quoted in the thousands. My brother has the same van with the same problem. I'm starting to dislike Toyota after many years of loyalty. Oh well, at least it still runs good...for now.

 

I took my 2005 XLE limited to the dealer with the same symptoms (power doors open only with handles, not with the buttons) thinking it would be covered by the warranty extension. No such luck. The dealer AND Toyota corporate said that the door latch MOTOR is not covered. Only the Cable assembly and Door Latch. Luckily, the dealer said that it was $262 for parts and labor to fix, unlike some of you guys who were quoted in the thousands. My brother has the same van with the same problem. I'm starting to dislike Toyota after many years of loyalty. Oh well, at least it still runs good...for now.

I am surprised that the latch motor is not covered, since a burned out 12v motor is the common fault with the latch release.
It is good that the stealership diagnosis and quotes are more correct, but save your money and do the DIY.
This is an easy DIY that will cost $10 if you go the full DIY route (order and replace the small 12v motor inside the latch actuator), or about $80-90 if you order and replace the whole latch actuator. Whatever metod you choose, the repair is approx. 2 hours of quality time with your Sienna, and priceless DIY pride

Get together with your brother and do both Siennas in 3 hours tops. You will save more than $500 to be spent on cold beers , flowers for the wives etc ...

 

Just finished this repair. Went all the way with replacement of the motor instead of the whole actuator. It was very easy. Took about 1.5 hours.

Couple of tips that worked well for me - I used a soldering gun to loosen up the actuator's screws and they came out with no problems. When removing the window retaining bolts, I used a magnetic wand to finish the last few turns so I wouldn't drop the bolts in the door. Finally, if you are going to do this repair, do yourself a favor and go the cheap route. Replacing the motor in the actuator is super easy (three screws, pull out the old motor, slip worm gear on new motor, and replace); the rest of the actuator is just gears that have zero wear on them.

Once again, siennachat.com makes minivan ownership even more awesome!

 

Wow thanks for the PDF how to. I also had my passenger sliding door fail to open with the button. I called the dealer and they said $1000 or more to fix. I took your advise and instructions and bought the $100 part and installed it. It is the most difficult install I have done. It is to bad it requires messing with the window. If it wasn't for that it would take half the time.

Well I am thrilled to say that it fixed the door! Thanks again!

Oh yeah, instead of using wood to hold the window, I jammed a towel between the window and the door. That held it right in place. I also had to dremel the screws off.