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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!

One of the power steering lines on my 2008 FWD XLE has sprung a leak... it's one of the ones paired together by the subframe. Looking through the service manual, I'm pretty sure it's the return line, since it's the one only connected with a hose and clips rather than threaded into anything (for which repair calls for a SST). I assume the pressure feed side is under a lot more pressure than the return side, which is why hose clamps would suffice, right?

However, I wanted to clear up something in the manual...
  • Step 10 (disconnect) shows that the return tube assy is the upper line (the one with a hose and clips that is leaking) and the pressure feed tube is the lower (requiring an SST)
  • Step 58 (connect) shows that the upper line is the pressure tube assy and the lower is the return (still requiring an SST).

I think I know what needs replacing, what to order and how to replace it; I just wanted to confirm whether or not this is, in fact, an error, and the leak I'm talking about is indeed in the return tube assy.

Does it make sense to replace the pressure tube at the same time? Is it difficult, and does it really require an SST?

Thanks!

51195
51196
 

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Not knowing the length of the SST it would be a challenge to set the torque perfectly to spec. I do know where one can buy the SSTs, but I did not find that specific #. Probably superceded to this but they can tell you exactly if you call:


Looks like it's similar to a crows foot with socket extension otherwise...

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I've only replaced the PS pump on my 3MZ, a different engine than yours, but I wouldn't sweat the torque specs. On the 3MZ it's a banjo bolt with copper washers and it looks to be the same on your 2GR. As jzchen suggests, it looks like a crowfoot flare wrench set would work; Harbor Freight sells them cheap. Just crank it down to what you think about what 17 lb-ft is. Experiment on an easily accessible bolt if you need to to get a feel for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses! I'm going to just replace the return line for the time being. If the pressure line can be replaced with a crowfoot wrench and hand-torqued, it'd be easy enough to do when the time comes.

Any thoughts on the apparent error (pressure line vs return line) in the service manual?

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A quick read and to me it looks like an error in step 58, calling the return line the pressure line. As I said, I have no experience with your engine, but is it possible that the pressure line has to be removed before you can get access to the return line clip? Just a thought. Otherwise, yeah, just replace the return line if you can without touching the pressure line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A quick read and to me it looks like an error in step 58, calling the return line the pressure line. As I said, I have no experience with your engine, but is it possible that the pressure line has to be removed before you can get access to the return line clip? Just a thought. Otherwise, yeah, just replace the return line if you can without touching the pressure line.
Thanks for the feedback! I had the van up on jackstands last weekend and it looks like I may be able to reach the return line hose clamps without touching the pressure line. I'll still have to unbolt a couple of brackets so I hope the bolts aren't too rusted.

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It's a tight spot in there. I didn't use a SST/crows foot but just a flare nut wrench when I replaced the pressure line. Ideally if you have time replace both because they are so close together and the lines are held on together near the rack. If you want to confirm what line it is then just trace it along the power steering system. The pressure line loops up towards the windshield/top of the engine. The line went bad at 173k miles on mine.
 
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