Toyota Sienna Forum - siennachat.com banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2008 LE with only 56k miles about 5 months ago. The engine is stock and nothing has been done except for 5k mile oil changes. The engine makes clicking sound on cold starts (takes about 5-10mins) and some times even after the engine warmed up. The noise only exists at idel/low RPM. When i step on gas (load on the engine) it disappears and engine runs smooth. But i notice that it has been making chirping noise since last oil change about 1000 miles ago. Those noises has been bugging me all summer. The car has so low little miles and i don't want the engine to blow. So, here are my questions,

1. What's the estimate cost of replacing VVT-i Valves and gears?
2. Can I just go to any reputable mechanic or should it be Toyota specialized mechanic (or maybe even dealer mechanic)?
3. What other parts should I replace while I'm at it to save on labor (for example, VVT-i oil line, chains, belts, tensioners, ATF change, water pump, radiator and etc)
4. I know this is a long shot but would Toyota Fix this for free? I checked and i didn't see any recalls on the car.
5. If anyone can recommend any reputable mechanic around tri state area, that would be a great help.

Any suggestion is welcomed. The car is basically stock with no mechanical mods. I'm installing a remote start in few weeks and that's about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
I bought a 2008 LE with only 56k miles about 5 months ago. The engine is stock and nothing has been done except for 5k mile oil changes. The engine makes clicking sound on cold starts (takes about 5-10mins) and some times even after the engine warmed up. The noise only exists at idel/low RPM. When i step on gas (load on the engine) it disappears and engine runs smooth. But i notice that it has been making chirping noise since last oil change about 1000 miles ago. Those noises has been bugging me all summer. The car has so low little miles and i don't want the engine to blow. So, here are my questions,

1. What's the estimate cost of replacing VVT-i Valves and gears?
2. Can I just go to any reputable mechanic or should it be Toyota specialized mechanic (or maybe even dealer mechanic)?
3. What other parts should I replace while I'm at it to save on labor (for example, VVT-i oil line, chains, belts, tensioners, ATF change, water pump, radiator and etc)
4. I know this is a long shot but would Toyota Fix this for free? I checked and i didn't see any recalls on the car.
5. If anyone can recommend any reputable mechanic around tri state area, that would be a great help.

Any suggestion is welcomed. The car is basically stock with no mechanical mods. I'm installing a remote start in few weeks and that's about it.
For question 4, the answer is almost certainly no. Often, you get a stock warranty that's something like 5/50,000 or 5/60,000 warranty. If you want, any time before either number expires, you can purchase an extended warranty to give you 10/100,000 coverage. The problem is, you're now 14 years old, so you're out of luck for an warranty.

For question 5, it would help if we knew WHICH tri-state area you're talking about!

For questions 1, 2, and 3, I think you may be jumping the gun here. You're assuming the source of the problem and then asking for other things to do at the same time to save on other jobs. The first step is conclusive diagnosis. A "chirping" noise could be as simple as you did the oil change on a windy day and a single drop of oil dropped down onto the belt and now it slips at idle. It could also be that the belt itself is glazed and just needs to be replaced. Cold start tapping is usually an oil flow issue. Switching to slightly thinner oil (i.e. adding a quart of 0W-20 to your 5W-30 at the next change) can make the tapping go away. Also make sure you aren't under/over filled on oil. That said, get a diagnosis first. You can get that at the dealer or a reputable independent mechanic. Don't tell them your pre-determined source of the problem. Just tell them, tapping at cold start/idle, chirping sound. Let them investigate and find the source and THEN you can ask about what you can do at the same time preventatively.

There are really only a few savings (i.e. rear coils when changing plugs, motor mount when changing timing belt in the early gen 2s, etc.) for overlapping work in the Sienna. Most other overlap things are obvious, like changing pads/rotors when doing wheel bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for tips on mechanic visit. I've visited 2 of them and been told that that's "normal" for Toyotas. I'll probably go to Toyota and see what they say.

I'm going to try Toyota Oil and Filter next time to see if it helps. The other reason to fix everything in one shot it to save shop visit. From the readings that I've done so far, there are few things that should be done together to save on labor or just a good idea to do it like your said about rear coils and plugs. Since it is a 14 year old car, I'm thinking there should be a laundry list of things to be done just for the peace of mind.

I'm from NYC.


For question 4, the answer is almost certainly no. Often, you get a stock warranty that's something like 5/50,000 or 5/60,000 warranty. If you want, any time before either number expires, you can purchase an extended warranty to give you 10/100,000 coverage. The problem is, you're now 14 years old, so you're out of luck for an warranty.

For question 5, it would help if we knew WHICH tri-state area you're talking about!

For questions 1, 2, and 3, I think you may be jumping the gun here. You're assuming the source of the problem and then asking for other things to do at the same time to save on other jobs. The first step is conclusive diagnosis. A "chirping" noise could be as simple as you did the oil change on a windy day and a single drop of oil dropped down onto the belt and now it slips at idle. It could also be that the belt itself is glazed and just needs to be replaced. Cold start tapping is usually an oil flow issue. Switching to slightly thinner oil (i.e. adding a quart of 0W-20 to your 5W-30 at the next change) can make the tapping go away. Also make sure you aren't under/over filled on oil. That said, get a diagnosis first. You can get that at the dealer or a reputable independent mechanic. Don't tell them your pre-determined source of the problem. Just tell them, tapping at cold start/idle, chirping sound. Let them investigate and find the source and THEN you can ask about what you can do at the same time preventatively.

There are really only a few savings (i.e. rear coils when changing plugs, motor mount when changing timing belt in the early gen 2s, etc.) for overlapping work in the Sienna. Most other overlap things are obvious, like changing pads/rotors when doing wheel bearings.
 

·
Registered
2009 le awd
Joined
·
395 Posts
Piston slap on a cold engine is another or maybe only noise you might hear on a cold engine.
The pistons on these are short skirted versions that " rock" in the bore until they heat up and swell a bit. It should stop or minimize when it warms up.
These noises worried me when I first bought mine, but I have gotten used to it. They are not the quietest engines by any stretch. Mine sounds alot like a diesel. It has been stone reliable for 121,000
So far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
Since it is a 14 year old car, I'm thinking there should be a laundry list of things to be done just for the peace of mind.
There certainly are things that should go on a laundry list for a 14 year-old vehicle, but most things are more based on mileage. Certain things like gaskets and seals start to degrade after about 15 years. Ball joint boots and control arm bushings and whatnot start to get hard and crack and split. Shocks/struts start to sag too, but with low, in-town mileage, they may still be fine. In the rust belt, things like brake lines (my recent experience) can get rusted up on the uncoated ends. And the always-present weak point in the Sienna is the radiator which can crack from a mix of vibration and heat/cold cycles. Those things don't need preventative replacement, but they should be checked at least once per year, if your goal is to avoid untimely failures that leave you stranded. One thing that seems to be an issue that doesn't get flagged often enough on low mileage vehicles is that, when parked for a period, the rotors tend to become scored more easily. So an inspection that says the brakes have plenty of pad thickness ignores the fact that only 20% of the pad is actually touching the rotor because of the scoring.

Other than that, I don't think you need to go looking for problems with the Sienna. Just keep doing the oil changes regularly. You may want to do a drain and fill of the transmission (using the correct Toyota-branded fluid) at the next oil change just to keep it clean and fresh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
first half of the video is from yesterday around 83 degrees. Car was parked for about 4.5 hours. Second half of the clip is from this morning around 65 degrees. Engine sounded normal to me on both times. I don't heard the rattle on both times so i guess i'll keep trying. However, you can heard a bit of low tone noise sounds like shakhing a marble in a empty milk carton. not sure if that's normal.

 

·
Registered
2008 Sienna LE
Joined
·
22 Posts
However, you can heard a bit of low tone noise sounds like shakhing a marble in a empty milk carton. not sure if that's normal.
The noise in the first half sounds like a bearing on an accessory going bad... almost exactly like what my alternator sounded like when it took a shit.
 

·
Registered
2008 XLE
Joined
·
74 Posts
Definitely the VVT-i oil line. Ours blew while sitting in a bank drive thru. Drove two blocks to my office and the bank called "you left all your oil here."

No sound, no smoke, no warning lights, nothing noticeable at all from inside the van.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've been trying to catch the engine making noise but it has been running smoother than the video for past 2 days. I think it is reading this thread and behaving. One thing i did is top off the oil. It is so hard to read the dip stick. I think it was right at the "Low" mark. I thought I overfilled it but upon chickening the dipstick for like 20 times, it is at "high" mark now. I had an oil change with Mobil 1 synthetic blend and topped off with Mobil 1 full synthetic (high mileage).


The noise in the first half sounds like a bearing on an accessory going bad... almost exactly like what my alternator sounded like when it took a shit.
I'll bring it to Toyota to check everything out.

Definitely the VVT-i oil line. Ours blew while sitting in a bank drive thru. Drove two blocks to my office and the bank called "you left all your oil here."
No sound, no smoke, no warning lights, nothing noticeable at all from inside the van.
Oh no. were you able to save the van? I'll definitely get it changed. is there only one part (oil line) to change?

The water pump has bearings that can go bad and make noise without losing coolant or overheat.
good point. I have a good idea of what to check on when i visit Toyota.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
I would stay away from Toyota dealers.. I also have an 08 LE, I bought it at 85k about 6 years ago. It now has 112k miles. In that time, I have redone front and rear rotors and pads, changed all 6 spark plugs ( and 3 rear coils ), numerous oil changes, and the only thing I did at the dealer was a trans. fluid change. I did all that around 100k miles, give or take. The rear spark plugs and coils showed no signs of wear when replaced. Oh, and definitely change the PCV valve every couple oil changes. I was losing about 1/2 qt. of oil between changes, and my mechanic suggested changing pcv valve. It was so clogged, you couldn't hear any rattle. No more oil loss after changing. I live near Rahway Prison, and I won't take my car to anybody except one shop. I can bring my own parts, he is VERY FAIR in price ( 275.00 for spark plugs and rear ignition coils changed ) but I brought my own parts. If you want his shop address, send me an email. grateful908 gmail.
 

·
Registered
2009 Sienna LE
Joined
·
232 Posts
Definitely the VVT-i oil line. Ours blew while sitting in a bank drive thru. Drove two blocks to my office and the bank called "you left all your oil here."
I don't see how a ruptured oil line could cause an intermittent noise; when it ruptures, oil would go everywhere and quickly result in engine damage.

But you should definitely check whether you have the rubber (older) or metal (newer) oil line. It depends on when your Sienna was made, which is listed on the driver door jamb sticker. See my post here for details: Summary of VVT-i oil line failure

I agree that the dipstick is difficult to read. It took me a while to get the hang of it. Just to make sure, are you wiping the oil off of the dipstick before sticking it back in for a reading? That should help to get consistent reads.

My water pump failed and made a somewhat similar sound, but I think it could be anything on the accessory belt.

I can bring my own parts, he is VERY FAIR in price ( 275.00 for spark plugs and rear ignition coils changed ) but I brought my own parts.
Nice.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top