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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
i wouldn't want to deal with the dealer mechanics but this seems like kind of a big job. I'd rather go to toyota specialized shops since it seems like a big job. I want to drain and replace ATF but I heard people say if it hasn't been changed for a long time, it is best to leave it alone. I also saw a video on youtube where the guy drained ATF like 4 or 5 times to almost completely replace the whole thing. Is there a reason you went to Toyota for the ATF change? As for the burning oil, I haven't noticed anything. The reason i needed to top off is becuase the shop didn't put enough (i think they only put 6qt).

I would stay away from Toyota dealers.. I also have an 08 LE, I bought it at 85k about 6 years ago. It now has 112k miles. In that time, I have redone front and rear rotors and pads, changed all 6 spark plugs ( and 3 rear coils ), numerous oil changes, and the only thing I did at the dealer was a trans. fluid change. I did all that around 100k miles, give or take. The rear spark plugs and coils showed no signs of wear when replaced. Oh, and definitely change the PCV valve every couple oil changes. I was losing about 1/2 qt. of oil between changes, and my mechanic suggested changing pcv valve. It was so clogged, you couldn't hear any rattle. No more oil loss after changing. I live near Rahway Prison, and I won't take my car to anybody except one shop. I can bring my own parts, he is VERY FAIR in price ( 275.00 for spark plugs and rear ignition coils changed ) but I brought my own parts. If you want his shop address, send me an email. grateful908 gmail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Thanks. I just checked your thread. I thought replacement line was full metal line and not rubber line with different rubber material. I'm gonna go check the manufacture date of the car. Hopefully it is after April 2008. But doubtful because it is '08 model.

Edit : on the door jam sticker, it says 06/08. Does that mean June, 2008?



I don't see how a ruptured oil line could cause an intermittent noise; when it ruptures, oil would go everywhere and quickly result in engine damage.

But you should definitely check whether you have the rubber (older) or metal (newer) oil line. It depends on when your Sienna was made, which is listed on the driver door jamb sticker. See my post here for details: Summary of VVT-i oil line failure

I agree that the dipstick is difficult to read. It took me a while to get the hang of it. Just to make sure, are you wiping the oil off of the dipstick before sticking it back in for a reading? That should help to get consistent reads.

My water pump failed and made a somewhat similar sound, but I think it could be anything on the accessory belt.
 

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Thanks. I just checked your thread. I thought replacement line was full metal line and not rubber line with different rubber material. I'm gonna go check the manufacture date of the car. Hopefully it is after April 2008. But doubtful because it is '08 model.

Edit : on the door jam sticker, it says 06/08. Does that mean June, 2008?
The replacement was for an updated rubber. But I read that sometimes dealers would put the metal line in. Yes, that's June 2008. But go ahead and pop the hood and check to be sure you have the metal line. It only takes a moment.
 

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I also agree about the difficult dip stick reading especially when the oil is still new. My tip is to slowly tilt the dip stick towards the top of the reading and as the oil runs you will know the oil level.
 

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The replacement was for an updated rubber. But I read that sometimes dealers would put the metal line in. Yes, that's June 2008. But go ahead and pop the hood and check to be sure you have the metal line. It only takes a moment.
I remember ordering the metal line and the online dealer calling to tell me it was the wrong part. I had to confirm that I wanted the updated metal oil line. E9tgrand should probably just request that the dealer replace it with the metal line. Or they may say he already has the updated rubber line with the yellow markings.

Since we're on the topic of oil lines, replace the oil cooler lines too if you have them.
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I want to drain and replace ATF but I heard people say if it hasn't been changed for a long time, it is best to leave it alone. I also saw a video on youtube where the guy drained ATF like 4 or 5 times to almost completely replace the whole thing.
This is mostly old wives tale. Your trans fluid is black and starts having shifting issues and/or throwing codes, so you have the dealer do a power flush and then the trans dies. The reason is, most commonly, the black fluid was from excessive wear and there is excessive clutch material suspended in the fluid. After you have clean fluid, it's not as thick and can result in slippage. It's NOT the flush that kills it. It was dead already and you just didn't know it. That said, a drain and fill is certainly a valid option almost at any time. If it's particularly bad, do a drain and fill three or four times at 1k(ish) miles intervals (to allow for fluid mixing). Otherwise, doing a drain and fill at 30k miles or every other oil change or whatever is adequate. In fact, it's SUPER easy to do at an oil change. All you need is the correct hex key, 5 quarts of the correct fluid, a new crush washer, drain pain and a funnel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I guess i got one less thing to worry about.

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I always thought these were the lines that needed to be replaced. LOL. what are they?

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The replacement was for an updated rubber. But I read that sometimes dealers would put the metal line in. Yes, that's June 2008. But go ahead and pop the hood and check to be sure you have the metal line. It only takes a moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Are they at risk of blowing up like the high pressure oil line?
Since we're on the topic of oil lines, replace the oil cooler lines too if you have them.
That makes a lot of sense. I'm pretty sure the AT is in good shape because of the low miles. Maybe I'll just flush it one time and get it over with because I don't have a space to work on the car.
It's NOT the flush that kills it. It was dead already and you just didn't know it.
 

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I guess i got one less thing to worry about.

View attachment 58585

I always thought these were the lines that needed to be replaced. LOL. what are they?

View attachment 58586
Looks like you have the updated VVT line.
The other one is by the oil filter. It looks like this.

They have a all steel version. Whatever you are showing in the second picture is of no concern that I am aware of. That one was replaced at 10 years/ 100,000 and still feels and looks good.
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i wouldn't want to deal with the dealer mechanics but this seems like kind of a big job. I'd rather go to toyota specialized shops since it seems like a big job. I want to drain and replace ATF but I heard people say if it hasn't been changed for a long time, it is best to leave it alone. I also saw a video on youtube where the guy drained ATF like 4 or 5 times to almost completely replace the whole thing. Is there a reason you went to Toyota for the ATF change? As for the burning oil, I haven't noticed anything. The reason i needed to top off is becuase the shop didn't put enough (i think they only put 6qt).
I went to the Toyota dealer because they suck out all the fluid. "Supposedly" you don't need to change the atf fluid but I don't buy that. I've read in several places on this site that 100k miles is kind of the sweet spot for an atf change. When you get up to 150k plus that is when you can run into problems. Like I said, I bought it at 86k miles, so I really didn't know what maintenance was done. I did all 4 wheels brakes, and the back were original and hardly had any wear, but I changed them anyways. Funny, I bought the car over 5 years ago for 6200.00, and I just had a guy offer me 10 grand. I guess the used car market really is tight right now!
 
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