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kanji4ever said:
Any one has any tip on removing filter housing?
Thanks in advance
You could try using a pair of large channel lock pliers, but only use it to engage the 2 "wings" on the housing to turn it. Those wings are below the tiny grooves where the oil filter wrench suppose to grip.

You could also try that cap oil filter wrench again, but this time also grab those 2 wings with your other hand to help turn it while you use the wrench so you are not only relying on the wrench to turn the housing. Those 2 wings are exactly 180 degrees from one another.

As far as draining the oil in the housing, I had purchased a Purolator cartridge that comes with a screw on type drain plug. You just screw it into the threads of the cap in the housing and it slowly inserts itself as you turn clockwise to drain it. And, you can control the flow of the oil.

Hope this helps.

When you do get it off, only hand tighten the housing after you put a layer of oil on the new rubber ring.
 

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kanji4ever said:
I just did my first oil change on my 2010 Sienna XLE at approximately 2000 miles.
It was very early to do the oil change but since the car still in "break-in" mode and I got dealer gift card when I purchased the vehicle. I figured to do a oil change wont hurt.
Went to dealer to purchase OEM filter cartridge, drain plug gasket, and 5W30 engine oil.

Drain the oil from oil pan was easy.
I was surprised at how dark the oil was. I expected it to be dirty but not that dark.
Getting the filter housing drain plug out was easy as well. Fitting the plastic drain plug in took some force and couple tries. Boy, the plastic drain plug was a tight fit.
Next was the hard part. I had my old plastic oil filter wrench I used for my other car. It was a good/tight fit. However, the filter housing was so tight that the wrench will slip. :mad: After numerous try I gave up on removing the filter. So I refilled the oil and call it a day.

I will purchase AST Toy640 oil wrench for my next oil change and see if I can get the filter housing to budge.

I figure I can just place the oil wrench on and with moderate force remove the filter housing. But obviously it was not the case for me.

Any one has any tip on removing filter housing?
Thanks in advance
Wait for your AST toy 64mm, it will come off like a charm ;-))
 

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jh818 said:
You could try using a pair of large channel lock pliers, but only use it to engage the 2 "wings" on the housing to turn it. Those wings are below the tiny grooves where the oil filter wrench suppose to grip.

You could also try that cap oil filter wrench again, but this time also grab those 2 wings with your other hand to help turn it while you use the wrench so you are not only relying on the wrench to turn the housing. Those 2 wings are exactly 180 degrees from one another.

As far as draining the oil in the housing, I had purchased a Purolator cartridge that comes with a screw on type drain plug. You just screw it into the threads of the cap in the housing and it slowly inserts itself as you turn clockwise to drain it. And, you can control the flow of the oil.

Hope this helps.

When you do get it off, only hand tighten the housing after you put a layer of oil on the new rubber ring.
Thanks for the advice. I will give the two pliers approach this weekend just to see if I can get it to loose up a little bit without taking it off.
 

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I wouldn't mess with it, the housing is made of plastic, taking a chunk out of it or cracking it seems possible to me. the three point of contact tool will not spread the force applied evenly around the housing. The AST 64mm is the tool and will be great to torque everything properly too. But hey its your housing , you can try what you want ;-))
 

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Homer said:
I wouldn't mess with it, the housing is made of plastic, taking a chunk out of it or cracking it seems possible to me. the three point of contact tool will not spread the force applied evenly around the housing. The AST 64mm is the tool and will be great to torque everything properly too. But hey its your housing , you can try what you want ;-))
My housing for the oil filter cartridge is made out of aluminum, not plastic. My Sienna is 07 3.5L. Are we talking about the same thing?
 

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jh818 said:
Homer said:
I wouldn't mess with it, the housing is made of plastic, taking a chunk out of it or cracking it seems possible to me. the three point of contact tool will not spread the force applied evenly around the housing. The AST 64mm is the tool and will be great to torque everything properly too. But hey its your housing , you can try what you want ;-))
My housing for the oil filter cartridge is made out of aluminum, not plastic. My Sienna is 07 3.5L. Are we talking about the same thing?


Plastic on my sienna 09, plastic on my son's corolla 09
 

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jh818 said:
Interesting...Toyota switched to plastic from aluminum for the oil filter housing.

Edit: I have included a picture of the oil fiter housing. This is the one on mine that is made out of aluminum...or some kind of aluminum alloy.

Hey you know what ? I owe you an apology, now that I look at it I realised that my son's corolla is made of plastic not my van I've done the first oil change on the van a few months ago and my memory didNt serve me well in this case , once again sorry if I mislead some of you here, however the ast 64mm IS the tool and work fine on both cars , and also on my Goldwing filter :)
 

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No problem, Homer. :)

It is shocking to me that they use plastic on the Corolla. I can see after so many years, that housing is going to crack and leak like the radiators.

I am really concerned about that oil line in the Sienna where they used a rubber hose for a section instead of all metal. Toyota still has not owned up to the fact that this is a design flaw and all the oil could potentially leak out if there is a pin hole in the hose.
 

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With plastic parts routinely used in hot coolant service (radiators, but also other housings) and as valve covers, I'm not so sure that an appropriate plastic is a big concern for the filter housing... and at least it is readily replaced.

As for the VVTi oil line - oil hoses are always rubber; what do people think is used to connect to all those oil coolers on race cars and heavy trucks?

Back to the 2GR-FE oil filter housing - thanks for the photo!
 

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brian_bp said:
With plastic parts routinely used in hot coolant service (radiators, but also other housings) and as valve covers, I'm not so sure that an appropriate plastic is a big concern for the filter housing... and at least it is readily replaced.

As for the VVTi oil line - oil hoses are always rubber; what do people think is used to connect to all those oil coolers on race cars and heavy trucks?

Back to the 2GR-FE oil filter housing - thanks for the photo!
I guess I don't mind Toyota using cheaper materials for parts as long as it is easy to get to and replace using common tools. Replacing that VVTi oil line looks quite challenging. The power steering compressor will need to be moved out of the way just to have clearance for your hand to turn a bolt. At least the oil filter housing is in plain view and not require you to remove a lower control arm just to unscrew it. :)
 

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Another in the camp of hating to do oil changes on the Sienna. What were they smoking when they introduced the cartridge filter? PITA. I want my canister retrofit kit!

Any source for the ASTTOY640 in Canada? Can't seem to find 'em here.
 

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switich to highmilage oil so you dont have to change the filter that often......use 0w40 grade mobil 1 synthetic oil an you will good for 15000miles just like the luxry cars........besides the van I now own a Mercedes and they also have the same kind of filter set up where you need some sort of assembly to install the filter and mind you the filter housing is right above the belts .......so try figuring changing the filter w/o spilling oil on the belts..........just a way by the car manufacturers in the guise of go green to discourage us DIYers from doing our own shit........to hell with them dont give up my fellow DIYers just stick to your gun and get it done............and the only other way would be the above that I suggested.......

javvy......
 

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Homer said:
kanji4ever said:
I just did my first oil change on my 2010 Sienna XLE at approximately 2000 miles.
It was very early to do the oil change but since the car still in "break-in" mode and I got dealer gift card when I purchased the vehicle. I figured to do a oil change wont hurt.
Went to dealer to purchase OEM filter cartridge, drain plug gasket, and 5W30 engine oil.

Drain the oil from oil pan was easy.
I was surprised at how dark the oil was. I expected it to be dirty but not that dark.
Getting the filter housing drain plug out was easy as well. Fitting the plastic drain plug in took some force and couple tries. Boy, the plastic drain plug was a tight fit.
Next was the hard part. I had my old plastic oil filter wrench I used for my other car. It was a good/tight fit. However, the filter housing was so tight that the wrench will slip. :mad: After numerous try I gave up on removing the filter. So I refilled the oil and call it a day.

I will purchase AST Toy640 oil wrench for my next oil change and see if I can get the filter housing to budge.

I figure I can just place the oil wrench on and with moderate force remove the filter housing. But obviously it was not the case for me.

Any one has any tip on removing filter housing?
Thanks in advance
Wait for your AST toy 64mm, it will come off like a charm ;-))
Just did a real oil change last weekend with AST toy wrench.
It was a tight fit and used a 23mm socket wrench.
oil housing came off with ease.

Thank Homer and others for the advice.
 

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After a few oil changes I have done the following and I am glad that I did. I took the center piece out of the filter container and I used some RED loc-tight on the threads and screwed it back into place. Now when I change my oil I simply use the 3/8 socket driver to remove the whole container.

To me this is much easier and faster than messing with the stupid center drain piece.
 

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I did mine and it leaked. I caught it real quick, but I'm very disappointed that Toyota makes it too difficult to just change your oil. I take it to the Toyota dealer and pay 60 bucks (Mobil 1). They say they do get vans towed in once and while with oil leaks after an oil change. Usually it's from Walmart and the engine is burned up. I'll not buy another Sienna if they keep this same design or any other Toyota with the same design.
 
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