We had our driver's side rear door jamb open this spring, in bitterly cold weather, requiring me to cut the cable (at exposed ends) to get the door to shut. I later took the door apart to remove the motor. The "spool" on the original motor grenaded itself, shattering the housing and permiting the cable to fray and kink.

There are two ways to fix this:

1. new motor assembley at about $800.00 (cost)
2. new spool assembly at just under $400.00 (cost)

The spool assembly on the new motor appears to be have been beefed up in comparison to the old unit. Great to know that the original part could have used this originally....

The replacement can be a DIY, with some mechanical savvy and a copy of the TSB. For the present time, we just the use the door as a manual door.

It is really discouraging to be a beta tester for Toyota technology, with no warranty coverage or service campaign support provided. Don't get me started on being 2.5 months out of warranty, but under on mileage, for the front door check, extended service campaign...

 

We had our driver's side rear door jamb open this spring, in bitterly cold weather, requiring me to cut the cable (at exposed ends) to get the door to shut. I later took the door apart to remove the motor. The "spool" on the original motor grenaded itself, shattering the housing and permiting the cable to fray and kink.

There are two ways to fix this:

1. new motor assembley at about $800.00 (cost)
2. new spool assembly at just under $400.00 (cost)

The spool assembly on the new motor appears to be have been beefed up in comparison to the old unit. Great to know that the original part could have used this originally....

The replacement can be a DIY, with some mechanical savvy and a copy of the TSB. For the present time, we just the use the door as a manual door.

It is really discouraging to be a beta tester for Toyota technology, with no warranty coverage or service campaign support provided. Don't get me started on being 2.5 months out of warranty, but under on mileage, for the front door check, extended service campaign...

I replaced a 12v tiny motor inside the Door Latch Assembly for $5 that I got online. Spent less than 1 hr to remove the entire door panel and replaced the tiny motor. Saved myself $1000+ from having the dealer ripped me off. The motor assembly is located below "E"

 

Thanks so much for the input of your experiences!

What do you mean you cut the "exposed ends" of the cable?

The only place that I can see a visible cable is at the back of the door near the window, it runs along the track that the door slides into. Is this the one you cut? Thanks in advance!

 

What do you mean you cut the "exposed ends" of the cable?

The only place that I can see a visible cable is at the back of the door near the window, it runs along the track that the door slides into. Is this the one you cut? Thanks in advance!

The cable has stationary anchors at both ends of the track in the body. It runs along the track, into the door and around the spool, and back out of the door again to the other anchor. The front anchor point is visible only with the door open; I found that getting at the rear one required popping the vent window latching mechanism off to allow the window to swing open wider. In power operation, the door essentially pulls itself along the cable.

Both ends of the cable are reasonably easily detached from the body without damage (to the cable or any other part), but if the cable is jammed in the spool (as both osteome's and mine were) that would leave two loose cable ends floating around, with a total length of the length of the track. Since the cable was frayed and obviously unusable anyway, I just clipped it with cutters where it went in and out of the door, as well as removing the cut-off parts from the vehicle at the anchor points.

 

This is very helpful! The KBB on my van is now about $10,000 (and it's an XLE), so I don't see myself spending $2,000+ on a repair like this. I'll be going "in" tomorrow, and will take and post pictures as I go.

 

I found that getting at the rear one required popping the vent window latching mechanism off to allow the window to swing open wider. In power operation, the door essentially pulls itself along the cable.

I am getting set to do this on the weekend, and have noticed that there appears to be a plastic cover near the back of the van sliding door channel - I assume that this comes off to get access to the wire - is it screwed on or does it snap off?

 

I am getting set to do this on the weekend, and have noticed that there appears to be a plastic cover near the back of the van sliding door channel - I assume that this comes off to get access to the wire - is it screwed on or does it snap off?

I had forgotten about the Slide Rail End Moulding. The manual's component diagram seems to show a bolt at its rear end, but think that's just a misleading drawing; the one I have attached is an extract from the installation instructions (for the driver's side), showing the clips. I don't clearly remember removing this piece, but I think it was a prying exercise requiring some care to get the right place (and I didn't have the manual page at the time).

 

I found that getting at the rear one required popping the vent window latching mechanism off to allow the window to swing open wider. In power operation, the door essentially pulls itself along the cable.

I am getting set to do this on the weekend, and have noticed that there appears to be a plastic cover near the back of the van sliding door channel - I assume that this comes off to get access to the wire - is it screwed on or does it snap off?

Send me a personal message and I can pass along the TSB with the instructions on how do the repair.

 

Is this the part to be removed? It's called the door motor in the TSB:

 

That is the part that can be removed. The spool hosuing on mine was shattered. The replacment motor has a beefed up housing. Thanks Toyota for having me test your original design!

 

Hi - I just had my drivers side door fail on my 2004 Sienna. I see that some of these messages mention that just the hub with the cable can be replaced. What are the correct part numbers for the door repair? I see 3 parts in the TSB are all needed or just the hub and cable?

Thank you,

 

I don't have the part numbers handy, but until recently you could only buy the whole motor. Now you can just buy the spool assembly, which is the part that typically detonates. It can be a little tricky to replace (don't let the wire unfurl as you place it on the motor...think replacing the idol head with the bag of sand in Raiders of the Lost Ark). The replacement spool assembly is beefier....so I am presuming that Toyota has identified this as a weak part. Glad I got to test the "prototype".

What did Toyota save, 5 bucks maybe, on the weaker design.....

We are looking at purchasing a replacement van in 2012...perhaps I will have to suck it up and look at the coffin sided Odyssey at that time.

 

I started having problems with the right side power door yesterday (3/10/10). For the first few times you could hear the door motor engage, then it would finally catch and the door would open. Now it just grinds and you must open the door manually. Is this what has occurred to others?

 

...For the first few times you could hear the door motor engage, then it would finally catch and the door would open. Now it just grinds and you must open the door manually. Is this what has occurred to others?

That's not my case. My cable jammed, so the door could not be moved even manually; this one sounds like it is slipping... still seems to be a cable problem.

 

I have now equipped my Sienna with some wire cutters (and a small hacksaw).....just in case my power door(s) fail(s) while away from home and get jammed in an open position. ??? :'( :'( :'(

YMMV.
Good Luck!! 8)

 

I had a chance to play with the door last night. Neither the console nor door pillar buttons will open the door. There is a whirring noise, but nothing happens. The remote does absolutely nothing. If you open the door by using the outside or inside latch, the door works fine. Thoughts on what the issue might be?

Someone mentioned on a different thread that the electronics might think the door was locked and to try manually locking/unlocking the door several times. I did that and there was no change.

Any help is appreciated.

 

 

I had a chance to play with the door last night. Neither the console nor door pillar buttons will open the door. There is a whirring noise, but nothing happens. The remote does absolutely nothing. If you open the door by using the outside or inside latch, the door works fine. Thoughts on what the issue might be?

Someone mentioned on a different thread that the electronics might think the door was locked and to try manually locking/unlocking the door several times. I did that and there was no change.

Any help is appreciated.

Just bumping for a response...

 

[osteome] has kindly posted his DIY-repair here:
Fixed Failed Power Slider Due to Cable Failure!!
http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php/topic,2239.0.html


YMMV.
Good Luck!! 8)

 

Interesting...the door started working again (although with a bit of hesitation) on Good Friday. Maybe it needed a rest? ??? ??? I would guess that something is slightly out of alignment and is now working? Thoughts?

In any case, DH did not want me canceling the appointment at the Toyota dealer I had today. The van has been there since 7:30 am and it's now almost 1:30 pm. I haven't heard a peep from them. That tells me they haven't even looked at it yet.

 

8 days later...door won't work automatically. What's up?

 

8 days later...door won't work automatically. What's up?

Our sienna 2005 LE has same problem on the driver side sliding dorr, I found some possible solution on carspace, however does not have time and parts for repair, just for your information and good luck.

-Philip

C/P from edmunds caspace
=================================================================================
#321 of 398
Re: Power door is not delatching [sienna_andy] by sienna_andy
Oct 17, 2009 (9:23 am)
Reply

Replying to: sienna_andy (Oct 02, 2009 9:19 am)
Just to give a quick update. I did successfully diagnose and fix the problem that a few of us described. To briefly restate the problem for anyone searching, the interior and exterior handles do usually succesfull engage the automatic sliding door, but the door would not open using the key fob, pillar button or front button. The problem as familymandan surmized was related to the door latches not releasing.

Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.)

I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches.

Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail.

Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor.

All is working great now.

==============================================================================================

 

Our sienna 2005 LE has same problem on the driver side sliding dorr, I found some possible solution on carspace, however does not have time and parts for repair, just for your information and good luck.

-Philip

C/P from edmunds caspace
=================================================================================
#321 of 398
Re: Power door is not delatching [sienna_andy] by sienna_andy
Oct 17, 2009 (9:23 am)
Reply

Replying to: sienna_andy (Oct 02, 2009 9:19 am)
Just to give a quick update. I did successfully diagnose and fix the problem that a few of us described. To briefly restate the problem for anyone searching, the interior and exterior handles do usually succesfull engage the automatic sliding door, but the door would not open using the key fob, pillar button or front button. The problem as familymandan surmized was related to the door latches not releasing.

Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.)

I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches.

Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail.

Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor.

All is working great now.

==============================================================================================

Newbie question: Neither of our "automatic" or manual doors opens, from inside or out, even after shop cut cable on one side. I'll see if I can get it open to check the child switch. But question: once cable is cut, is that door just closed or is it locked if you lock the car? In other words, is "closing" unrelated to "locking?"

 

8 days later...door won't work automatically. What's up?

Our sienna 2005 LE has same problem on the driver side sliding dorr, I found some possible solution on carspace, however does not have time and parts for repair, just for your information and good luck.

-Philip

C/P from edmunds caspace
=================================================================================
#321 of 398
Re: Power door is not delatching [sienna_andy] by sienna_andy
Oct 17, 2009 (9:23 am)
Reply

Replying to: sienna_andy (Oct 02, 2009 9:19 am)
Just to give a quick update. I did successfully diagnose and fix the problem that a few of us described. To briefly restate the problem for anyone searching, the interior and exterior handles do usually succesfull engage the automatic sliding door, but the door would not open using the key fob, pillar button or front button. The problem as familymandan surmized was related to the door latches not releasing.

Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.)

I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches.

Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail.

Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor.

All is working great now.

==============================================================================================

I found and copied the same for my DH. Unfortunately, he's been rather busy (not to mention stuck in France for a few extra days because of the volcanic ash). Maybe I can convince him when he realizes that he can do some sweat equity and a few hundred dollars or he can let someone else do it and pay $1500!

BTW...after I put a piece of duct tape over the pillar button to remind the boys not to use it, the door started working again (habits are hard to break). Go figure....

 

Duct tape fixes just about anything. ;D ;D ;D 8)

 

I have a 2004 Sienna and one night when a friend was trying to close the door it was stuck open. We had to snap the cable by pulling on the door to get home. The cable was hanging on the side of the van until I had the dealership cut the cable. I am not going to pay $2K to fix it. I am hoping it will become a campaign that Toyota will remedy.

 

Anyone know any hungry newshounds that might want to do a story on the door issue for a slow news day???

 

We have a 2004 (purchased July 2003) with the one passenger side, power sliding door. In late 2007, while under our extended warranty, the cable snapped and, obviously, the door stopped working. The repair was made by the dealership and covered by our warranty.

Just last week, 100 miles past our 100,000 mile extended warranty, that same door stopped working. The cable didn't snap this time but a black plastic clip-ish or anchor-ish looking piece came flying off as the sickening noise was heard and the door ground to a halt. BUMMER!!

I had just had the van into the dealer to check the sliding doors because they both stick like crazy - hot weather, cold weather, sunny day, humid day, but that is another, related story - and the power door was sounding funny plus I knew we were going to be out of warranty shortly. Fast forward a few days and a hundred miles and BAM! broken power slider.

I believe the frequent failure of these doors is due to their subsequently corrected design flaw that causes the unreasonable and troublesome sticking/freezing of the sliding doors. I have to pry them open at least several times a week - even multiple times a day - and in a really bad freeze, climb in through the front doors and push hard against the door frame with my shoulder to get them to open............a rather inconvenient and sometimes downright embarrassing happening.

Now that we will be cutting the cable and creating two manual sliding doors, I can only hope that the exterior handles don't break off because of how often and how firmly the doors both stick.

Thanks for letting me vent!