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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased an aftermarket remote start system, which uses the Toyota Smart Key to start the van.
It seems to be a quality product. I removed the lower dash panel (under the steering wheel) to take a look at what I will need to do to install this unit.
It requires splicing into wires on 3 different plugs. I did unplug the Steering Lock Connector, the Push To Start connector and one of the ECU plugs.
After looking at what wires I will need, I plugged them back in and put everything back together. for the future installation.

Now, the doors do not open with the fobs. The doors don't lock or unlock with the fob.
The van does start.
I did just notice the fobs have a faint red light that turns on when push one of the buttons. I don't know if this has always turned on, or I just now noticed it.

I pressed and held both the lock and unlock buttons, trying different things. This is how to unlock all doors vs. only one door. The display did register this action, so that and the fact the van starts, tells me the fobs art still connected to the van.

I cannot figure out how to make the fobs lock/unlock the van or how to make them open the three power doors again.

Any ideas?

The van is a 2011 Sienna Limited
Thank you, Chad
 

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Welcome Chad!

IIRC, there is a Power Door Off button on that lower dash panel. Did you forget to reset the switch or not reconnect the wiring to the back of the switch when you replaced that panel?
 

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So it's not the button....

There are some cases where the body ecu which controls the door motion needs to be reset. Usually this entails finding the power to the ecu, or just simply disconnecting the car battery, pressing on the brake pedal to discharge any capacitively stored power, and reconnect the battery. Press and hold the power door button and try cycling the doors each a few times until they resume normal operation. Some have had to manually open and close the doors while holding the button.

There might be a better / more thorough way of doing this reset. Anyone?
 

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I had the opposite problem the other day, I could unlock doors but the fob wasn't sensed by the vehicle. Disconnected car battery for a long time, didn't fix it. Pulled the battery out of the fob and then put it back in a minute later and everything worked.
 

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Last week my wife's fob stopped reliably working. When she'd push the Start button, the dash would report no key detected. She called me and I told her to hold the fob up to the Start button, and the secondary passive security chip kicked into gear and started the van.

Once back home, we swapped fobs. Mine worked fine. The little red light illuminated with each push of a button, while hers did not.

The 2032 coin cell battery works the proximity transmitter, immobilizer and the RKE. I slid the battery around a bit to clean the contacts and it would sometimes work, but not reliably. A DVM check confirmed that it was down below 3v even, while a fresh one was at 3.25v or so.

Unfortunately, when I cracked the shell open the assembly literally broke apart! All the internal tabs and retainer strip came apart in about a dozen small chunks. It wasn't going back together....

I found Amazon offered an aftermarket replacement outer shell. It's not quite as perfect as the OEM, but perfectly suitable and the price is right.
 
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