[ericreyn]

If you loosen the bleeder 1/4 turn will the piston move then ?

I should have included when you are trying to compress it with a c clamp.
If it was solid and you were unable to move it the initial thought I would have is the caliper is frozen.
If when still under the force from the c clamp the bleeder is lossened and then suddenly the piston will now move than that indicates a problem elsewhere and that the caliper is Maybe not frozen after all. It should move when the pedal is pressed, it just won't release and will keep pressure on the pads which will then heat them up.

If you put everything back together but leave the wheel off the ground and have someone push on the brake pedal and keep pressure on it while you try to move the tire it should not move.
And after letting off the brake pedal the tire should now move freely. It the caliper is frozen it will apply clamping force but will not unclamp when the brake pedal is released.

 

[Mound]

Ok I am so confused😂? The piston is pushed into the caliper all but an 1/8 of an inch? If so that is correct. If you push on the brake pedal, have someone else do it slowly while you watch, does the piston move (push out)? If so that is also what it's supposed to do. If not the caliper would need to be replaced. I wouldn't open that bleeder until you know for sure the piston is not moving because then you Have to bleed them and when they're that old they could break. Just remember PB Blaster is your friend🤣. I've had Toyotas for the last 25 years or so and they are notorious for having the slide pins stick so the caliper can't float like it should causing it to seize the pads up. The first thing I would do after testing the piston, as long as it is working, is replace the pin and boots, use a drill about the size of the pin to ream out where the pin goes in, spray it with brake cleaner, grease the new pins, put on the new boots, and put it bake together with new pads and probably rotors too. Hope this helps and keep us posted.

I think the bottom pin was askew. Top one slid out clean and easy. Bottom one didn't, though not too hard to extract. As you described is how it is. Tomorrow morning my wife will help, get on the pedal and I'll watch the piston.

 

[Mound]

I should have included when you are trying to compress it with a c clamp.
If it was solid and you were unable to move it the initial thought I would have is the caliper is frozen.
If when still under the force from the c clamp the bleeder is lossened and then suddenly the piston will now move than that indicates a problem elsewhere and that the caliper is Maybe not frozen after all. It should move when the pedal is pressed, it just won't release and will keep pressure on the pads which will then heat them up.

If you put everything back together but leave the wheel off the ground and have someone push on the brake pedal and keep pressure on it while you try to move the tire it should not move.
And after letting off the brake pedal the tire should now move freely. It the caliper is frozen it will apply clamping force but will not unclamp when the brake pedal is released.

Tomorrow morning I will watch the piston and my wife can push the pedal. Of course, I pushed the pedal and then went around to see if there was any inkling of difference, but I didn't see anything. It may have been the bottom pin, although greased and not rusted at all, it didn't slide right out like the top pin, but I was able to extract it without much effort. Tomorrow morning I will find out!

 

[Mound]

That's likely disk brake quiet stuff.

View attachment 60901

I don't know about that stuff. The color is good, but this material is solid red throughout, not just a coating. The only shiny, semi-metalic look is the surface. A hairs width down, the brick red color material

 

[ericreyn]

it barely moves to apply clamping force. This might be difficult to see.
Put it back over the rotor and have your wife press and hold the pedal.
It should stop the wheel movement. And then let the pedal back up.
The wheel should now move freely with maybe a tiny bit of drag.

 

[paul r]

Just to reinforce the process . Make sure pads and rotors are installed both sides of van before your wife presses the brake pedal .
Good luck

 

[MD_2009_Sienna_Guy]

About two weeks ago, the brakes felt soft. Kept driving. Then, on my last long drive, about 150 miles round trip, the back rear wheel smelled the garage up with the semi braking hard odor -burning asbestos smell, you know the one. Smelled all the wheels and it was only the right rear. Still had to drive another time or two, the smell less intense, but the trips shorter.So I have to deal with it.

Question is: Does this happen because of a stuck caliper or just a bad pad? Is there a parking brake element on the rear right? Trying to figure out what I am looking for. Have replaced pads and calipers on my 93 Previa, but I'm figuring that was easier than a 17 year newer vehicle.

Anyone have experience with brake jobs, or the odor, or anything relevant to the issue? Hate to need to bring it to a shop, especially if its just a pad -but can't see why one pad would be wearing on the rotor and the other side not.

Thanks!
2010 LE Sienna with about 103K

Is it possible the emergency brake cable froze in a partial "on" position.?

 

[Mound]

Is it possible the emergency brake cable froze in a partial "on" position.?

I don't know but the rotor came right off without friction. I can put the p brake on and see how it moves

 

[Mound]

Driver side pad a different material than the red pass side pad (side with burning)

Dr side pad is much thinner than the passenger side. Looks like former owner may have replaced one pad in the past or right side wasn't working at all...?

With my wife to help, finally was able to get the completely retracted piston out with a few hard pushes on the brake pedal. Given that I don't know what happened here, I'm just going to replace the calipers, both sides.

Seems to me like both are ok, could be resurfaced, but then may be more trouble than its worth looking for a resurfacer, or do they even do a good job...

 

[ericreyn]

The 2 different pad thicknesses would indicate the sliders are not moving as intended.
It looks like its been a long time since the last brake job.
I would reuse the rotors as is. If they vibrate or have a pulsating effect on the pedal you can always get new ones later. I am pretty sure no one turns em anymore anyway.

 

[Mound]

Looking at Rockauto calipers and the pictures for the ACdelco and Raybestos are exactly the same pictures. Can't choose. Wish there was a clear choice. Is it OE Toyota the clear choice at 3 times the price?

 

[BillG]

Personally, I'd buy calipers from the dealer. Pads and rotors from wherever. I'd also suggest new slide pins if you think yours may have been misaligned, because I think the only way that can happen is if they got bent or flared. And, as for getting the rotors turned vs. replacement, if you pay a shop to turn your rotors (if they are candidates), it will cost you about the price of new rotors. If you drop them off, the guy that gets them might tell you they are beyond turning and charge you $20 for the assessment. As it goes typically, by the time you need new pads or other brake work, the rotors are often beyond the point of turning, so it's not worth even trying to turn them. The one exception is if you have something like excessive brake noise (i.e. switching to semi-metallic pads in old cars) or you have excessive vibration when braking with new rotors, turning off the surface to make it fresh and true can fix the problems.

 

[topwop]

Looking at RockAuto calipers and the pictures for the ACdelco and Raybestos are exactly the same pictures. Can't choose. Wish there was a clear choice. Is it OE Toyota the clear choice at 3 times the price?

Glad you sent pictures. With the way the pads wore the caliper was sticking and probably should be replaced. I purchased from Rock Auto and got the Kit, pads, rotors, and calipers. Pin kit and boots are separate but should also be replaced. Link to kit.

More Information for POWER STOP KCOE5498

Check close to home for parts in your area to compare shipping and core charges. With over 100,000 miles on it and 13 years old I wouldn't invest in OEM Toyota parts just don't buy bottom of the barrel, like AutoZone Valuecraft, and you'll be fine. Again keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Mound]

Glad you sent pictures. With the way the pads wore the caliper was sticking and probably should be replaced. I purchased from Rock Auto and got the Kit, pads, rotors, and calipers. Pin kit and boots are separate but should also be replaced. Link to kit.

More Information for POWER STOP KCOE5498

Check close to home for parts in your area to compare shipping and core charges. With over 100,000 miles on it and 13 years old I wouldn't invest in OEM Toyota parts just don't buy bottom of the barrel, like AutoZone Valuecraft, and you'll be fine. Again keep us posted on your progress.

Yeah -looks like I timed myself out of RockAuto as they are saying next week for delivery and can't be without for that long. Napa has nugeon and napa line calipers.

 

[Mound]

Personally, I'd buy calipers from the dealer. Pads and rotors from wherever. I'd also suggest new slide pins if you think yours may have been misaligned, because I think the only way that can happen is if they got bent or flared. And, as for getting the rotors turned vs. replacement, if you pay a shop to turn your rotors (if they are candidates), it will cost you about the price of new rotors. If you drop them off, the guy that gets them might tell you they are beyond turning and charge you $20 for the assessment. As it goes typically, by the time you need new pads or other brake work, the rotors are often beyond the point of turning, so it's not worth even trying to turn them. The one exception is if you have something like excessive brake noise (i.e. switching to semi-metallic pads in old cars) or you have excessive vibration when braking with new rotors, turning off the surface to make it fresh and true can fix the problems.

I would too, but they said they need to special order them at a considerable wait and cost. McGeorge in VA has a great price but the delivery is not until the 7th which is getting late

 

[ericreyn]

I buy toyota parts most of the time but I wouldn't hesitate to get some rebuilds from the local autoparts store. Hydraulics are quite simple systems. Its a piston and a seal with a rubber cover to keep the crap out. After long enough they get slightly rusted and start to freeze up. That's when they start to not release properly and heat up the rotors.
Pads, I usually don't go cheap on those.

 

[Mound]

I would too, but they said they need to special order them at a considerable wait and cost. McGeorge in VA has a great price but the delivery is not until the 7th which is getting late

Finally sealed the deal and bought two calipers, left and right. I plan to put another 100K on this vehicle, so went with the toyota part for the calipers (although considering rebuilding the two I have). No need for shipping a core either, convenience has a price. Found a dealer closer to me in Michigan so the shipping worked out to 12 bucks over my usual online go to McGeorge in VA. Michigan toyota could get them here by Sunday too, whereas mcG was charging 115 to do that. Got Advic rotors and pads from rock auto

 

[Mound]

I buy toyota parts most of the time but I wouldn't hesitate to get some rebuilds from the local autoparts store. Hydraulics are quite simple systems. Its a piston and a seal with a rubber cover to keep the crap out. After long enough they get slightly rusted and start to freeze up. That's when they start to not release properly and heat up the rotors.
Pads, I usually don't go cheap on those.

Ordered Advics from Rock Auto and same for rotors.

 

[topwop]

Ordered Advics from Rock Auto and same for rotors.

Advics???

 

[Mound]

Advics???

They are a Japanese OE manufacturer -combo of AISIN, DENSO and SUMITOMO. I found them when looking up Sumitomo brakes that I've seen on Toyotas