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jim662 said:
I've done 5 of these now on different vehicles and I've been able to get the flywheel bolt off three times with a 3/4 inch air gun from Harbor Freight.
Jim,

How long did it take for the bolt to come off with the Harbour Freight Impact gun? Did you spray some WD-40 on the bolt to get it loose?

Regards, JC.
 

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On the ones that the HF 3/4" impact gun did work, it took several tries. What I had to do was to pull the trigger for just a couple of seconds and then stop and let the air line "recharge" so that the gun had maximum air going to it and max. effectiveness. I'd also consider turning up the air compressor as high as 130-150psi. Mine stops at about 120. Then I would hit it again for a couple of seconds and then do the "recharge" process again. For the ones that came off, it took maybe 5 tries. Just leaving the gun on it and running it for 10 or 30 or whatever seconds doesn't do it. Like I said earlier 2/5 would not budge

As for WD 40 or other penetrating oil, I've never used it. That bolt is threaded deeply and there is a big flange built into the head. I don't think you could get any oil in there if you tried. Heat is a no-go too, because the metal of the crank and the metal of the bolt is the same.

The problem is that people just put those bolts in with an impact gun and seem to have way more torque than they are supposed to have.

If you can't get it off with a 3/4" gun, you've either got to go with the breaker bar and a long extension to clear the fender well (if you don't have a lift) or you could try the "starter" method. I've never done it that way and it sounds dangerous, but when I did my Mercury Villager, people were swearing by that method. You'd have to google it to see what you think. I believe there was a post at Toyota Nation of people doing this.

Here are my notes on the power steering pump and how to loosen the hidden bolt. In my opinion , this was the single most difficult part of the job to figure out--everything else is relatively straight forward:

It is tricky to figure out where both bolts are on the power steering pump. There is rather obvious 12 mm bolt that locks the tension on the belt. The other bolt is a similar looking goldish color that is located above and behind the power steering pulley. It is at 11 o’clock or so. The only way to see it is to look behind the power steering pump pulley with your head toward the rear of the car. In other words, you are not looking on the same side of the shock tower as you would be if you were looking at the crank pulley. You have to look on the other side, and you have to kind of crawl under that area. It’s got a similar bolt head as to the lock bolt that you just removed. It’s hard to see to say the least. To make matters worse, I couldn’t get a socket on it with my 3/8” Craftsman set. I tried a regular socket – too short. The deep socket was too long. A socket with extension was too long. Finally, I found that the 1/2'’ drive with the regular socket could fit in to the area I had to work. In my opinion, this was the single most difficult bolt to deal with on the whole job.
 

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I just read the rest of this thread where someone had recommended cutting off part of the #3 timing cover near the water pump. Don't do this. There is no need to do it. Watch this video (it may be in part 2) and you will see that you can remove the water pump without removing the cam gears and the #3 timing belt cover. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI60MOkf168&feature=relmfu

Also, I've removed the timing gears several times. Its not that hard to do, its just time consuming. You need this tool (or a similar one) if you remove those gears -- Schley Universal Camshaft Holder Tool (p/n 96800).
 

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Spent half the day on this job but didn't manage to finish before the sun went down. The crank bolt wasn't too bad. I borrowed a friends Ingersol Rand 1/2" impact wrench and after a few attempts it cracked it but only after I turned my baby compressor up to 120 psi.

All the other bolts came out in one piece but I managed to chip the harmonic balance crank pulley by trying to remove with the wrong kind of puller. I had to go to the store to get the right tool (a 40 minute round trip) which worked fine but I think I may have to rebalance the pulley or find a replacement.

Both PS pump and alternator were stiff but brute force got them shifted to remove the belts.

The water pump removal was a nightmare. I watched the YouTube video where the guy manages to get the waterpump out without removing the camshaft pulley. In my case, there were a bunch of bolts holding the waterpump in place but also 2 studs. The upper stud prevented me from getting the pump off using the "cheat" method. Had it been a regular bolt it would have been fine and dandy. In the end, I hacked about 1/4" off the stud and finally managed to get the pump out. No chance of getting the new one back in though and I think I'll need to get the camshaft pulley off once I buy or craft a suitable tool.

Also, the shitty water pump gasket took me at least a half hour to scrape off the block. Serious PITA...!!! The proper gasket shouldn't bond like that.

Luckily, this is a secondary vehicle so I pulled the pug late Sunday afternoon and I'll finish off over the week but first I'll need that tool.
 

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I'm having issues aligning my marks on replacing my belts. My camshafts align fine (TDC) but my crankshaft won't align to TDC. It's like 3 teeth short. If I align my crankshaft, my camshafts don't align. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: BTW, I think I know what I did wrong (stupid me..) I was hand cranking the camshaft instead of the crankshaft, I did feel a slip while cranking the camshaft clockwise but never did happen again. Can I just align the crankshaft when I get the belt off? Can anyone help me in my dilemma. Thanks.
 

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I'm having issues aligning my marks on replacing my belts. My camshafts align fine (TDC) but my crankshaft won't align to TDC. It's like 3 teeth short. If I align my crankshaft, my camshafts don't align. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: BTW, I think I know what I did wrong (stupid me..) I was hand cranking the camshaft instead of the crankshaft, I did feel a slip while cranking the camshaft clockwise but never did happen again. Can I just align the crankshaft when I get the belt off? Can anyone help me in my dilemma. Thanks.
Yes once the belt is off you can rotate each cam or crankshaft manually. Make sure to only rotate it clockwise.
 

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Yes once the belt is off you can rotate each cam or crankshaft manually. Make sure to only rotate it clockwise.
Thanks, I hope I didn't break anything (concern of that slipping while turning the camshaft clockwise). I'll left the camshaft (since both where in aligment) where it was, removed the tensioner and removed the old belt and turned the crankshaft by hand to TDC. BTW: My belt had 120,000 miles life and still looked good, the teeth where still in good condition but I did notice quite a few belt dusts on the tensioner so I have a feeling it was going to give pretty soon. The seals on the camshafts looks OK and the water pump is pump looks great. I'm planning on just changing the belt, tensioners (Gates Brand) and let it run for 20,000 miles. Then I will go back in and replace the seals, tensioners and water pump with AISIN kit.

My other concern was the seal (gasket) on the upper timing belt cover. There seem to be a few areas where the gasket is broken. Can I just put a gasket sealer on it when putting it back?
 

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I recently changed the timing belt on my 06LE with 171k miles , the first was done at 86k miles. It was not the mileage that prompted to change the the belt but time. It had been more than seven years. There are a few tools that made the job easier for me ( this was the first time ever doing a V6)
1 Lisle 77110 22mm harmonic balancer pulley socket.
....I used an old sears electric half in drive impact to remove and install the crankshaft bolt.
I am an advocate of torquing to the appropriate specs but for this cranshaft bolt I did not have the space from above to use a torque wrench so I reinstalled with this socket.

2.... I bought a 24 inch chain wrench ( shop iron 21372 ) and I used this to wrap around the cam sprockets . So as not to damage the teeth in the sprockets I cut a piece of the old timing belt and wrapped around the sprockets keeping in place with a piece of duct tape.

3.... I replaced the cam seals as well and used a seal installer. I found it on ebay.

4..... I used a 2 inch pvc coupler from home depot to install the crankshaft seal.

5...... I bought ahead of time a new bracket , the one that usually has one of the two long bolts break.
I also bought two new bolts. It was a PITA to remove the old ones and sure enough one broke and the old bracket with the the bolt is still somewhere in my home garage. Upon reinstalling I made sure to apply a liberal amount of antiseize to the bolts . In addition I smeared grease into the void where the bolts are and sealed the head area of the bolts as well to prevernt the entry of water. I hope this make the next time a lot easier.

6....A telescopic mirror ( from Lowes) to see the alignment of the cam sprocket at the firewall end.

7....A torque wrench specified in Inch pounds for those water pump bolts and such. This I had previously .

8....Youtube videos...I watched videos over and over again from different posters.

9....Search the internet for torque values for the various nuts and bolts.
This is what I can remember at this time.
I feel confident that I can go thousands of miles not worrying about the timing belt and water pump failing.
The old belt , water pump , tensioner all seemed good. There wasn't any leaks from the cam and main seals. No wonder some folks go over the recommended mileage without issues. I am not willing to chance it.
Finally , my labor is free and the reward is great.
Cheers
Folks I realize I posted in GEN 1, nevertheless I hope my post is applicable to this GEN as well
 
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