[ex-s/choice]

;D

Greeting fellow sienna owners,

I have a 2005 xle awd limited and Im at 158,000km and need to change the timing belt.


So after resourcing the forum and reading the #1 pitfall is the RH lower engine mounting bracket Bolts. It sounds as though the mounting bolt(S) break or strip the threads when you try to remove them. I did a little reconnaissance on my van to see if id be lucky and get them out or loose with out breaking anything. I did manage to get the front one out using heat and persistence! Spent 3 hrs going back and forth with a 1/2 drive ratchet and it finally came out.

The rear bolt,

Ive spent a combined 12 hrs on it with heat impact gun, ratchet, and it now moves just less than a 1/4 turn. It hasnt broke YET! Im still in the game, LOL!!

The head of the bolt is showing lots of wear from the beating its undergone and Im starting to think Ill loose the battle over this because of the head of the bolt and not the bolt actually shearing off.

Research time:

Toyota stealer ship wants $92 loonies for a new mount plus $19 per bolt (had to laugh when he told me they have 3 mounts in stock) but then it struck me...why so many, I began digging a little deeper and guess what.... Turns out the mount that corrodes the bolt and causes the breaking bolts is used on many other applications. SO,

Before you go thowing the hard earned to the stealer ship do a little search here. I got mine off a 1994 camry 3.0l se for $10 including bolts LOL!!! In your ear toyota!!! But thanks for putting your pisspoor design on everything you made here!

I REALLY HOPE THIS helps you dudes out. Cheers

;D BTW I'm still going to get mine out without breaking it.

12315‑0A010 this is the part you need toyota number on the diagrams it shows up as 12315A

I used this website to cross reference the part http://***.toyotapartsoverstock.com/ ( sorry mods if you dont like live links) replace *** with www

here is a direct link to the crossref data

http://***.toyotapartsoverstock.com/p/TOYOTA_1994_CAMRY3000CC-24-VALVE-DOHC-EFI--AUTOMATICSEDAN--SE/BRACKET--ENGINE-MOUNTING--RHFOR-TRANSVERSE-ENGINE/3897949/1231520020.html

Ive used a 1994 camry se 3.0l . and according to the cross ref look at all the vehicals its used on. you will see its used on my vehical 2005 sienna xle 3.3l


Unfortunately this website limits the amount of data in a post so i can list all other vehicles here so you'll have to follow the links and do your homework

it will be worth it.

 

[ex-s/choice]

Hello Everyone,

Bit of an update to my saga,


I worked on taking out the bolts untill the head of the bolt was rounded, the farthest it would turn was about 1/2 a turn.

When I couldnt turn it any more i was faced with taking a dremel with a grinding tip an grinding the head off of the bolt. Just the rear bolt was the one that wouldnt come out. That took close to an hour. The upper bracket still wouldn't come off because of the amount of corrosion around the shaft of the bolt. I was able to raise the bracket high enough to rotate it out of the way and remove the Hidden bolt that holds the lower bracket to the block. Talk about doing it the hard way!! Even once I had the brackets off of the vehicle I ended up cutting the bolt with a hacksaw and driving it back out with a drift punch. Once out I cleaned the upper bracket bolt guides out. couldn't believe the crap stuck in there.

Completed the belt changes, tensioner, and guide bearings. I didnt do the water pump. Still having mixed feelings about that. Hard to open it up when it hasn't failed. I know there are arguments both ways on this but Its true the original pump could last the life of the vehicle. And it could fail tomorrow, or I could replace with a new one and have a dud. There doesnt seem to be a hard and fast guarantee on this topic. Ive had to change he water pump on my wife's 2004 corolla two times now and it only has 55km on it. Obviously the one I put in to replace the original was a dud cause it only lasted 4 months.

About the belt and tensioner,

my belt was an original and it looked in great shape. No fraying cracking or chips in the teeth. The only signs of wear were, writing was worn off and the tensioner was extended to almost the fullest extent. The pully on the tensioner had enough play in the bearings that side to side movement produced play in the bearding. So Im glad that I changed those components out.


Last point to all DIY peeps,

Ive done many belts in the past, but i did learn something from a youtube video I watched before doing this job and the guy in the video used plastic tie wraps to hold the belt in place on the cam gear. This really cut down the time of setting up the the belt on the gears. I highly recommend doing that to save yourself some grief.

Anyway engine is back together and runs great. A big thanks to the contributions of others on the forum that have posted info to help others. Hope this one helps someone someday.

cheers

 

[Fire]

broke the rear bolt as well. Except the stealership, any other source for that parts?

I think to remove the 12315A, you need to take off the top one first, and there are 3 bolt hold the 12315A, two I can find at the lower part, there is another one behind the top part. Is that correct?

 

[jc]

12 hours to try and remove a bolt? Yikes. It is a bad design. On my 98 part of the bolt was still sticking out, so my buddy was able to remove it with heat.

 

[Fire]

bad location for heat. and I think Toyota doesn't care about that since customer didn't know that was by bad design.

Need to call tomorrow to see if any local dealer have that. I think the price is about CAD$120 after tax.... And online in US just $40...

 

[jc]

That mount was already removed from the van when the heat was applied.

 

[Fire]

Spend 1 hour this afternoon try to see if I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and failed again... I guess my tool just not power enough. Decide to take it to the dealership. They quota me for $500 labor.

 

[Optiker]

I used a tool I made from a piece of angle iron and a breaker bar with extension. See my post #13 here. This thread has great info about the timing belt change:

http://www.siennachat.com/forum/185...5-diy-2005-sienna-3-3l-3mzfe-timing-belt.html

 

[jc]

You need a powerful air impact gun to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. The harbor freight earthquake half inch is a good choice as well as a 30 gallon air compressor
Otherwise you'll be stuck.

 

[aj1101]

Re: Timing Belt change hard lesson learnedsnapped mount bolts No problem!!!

Great thread and good pointers. Here are a couple of my hard learned lessons....

I had the same problem with the bolt in the rear....at about 11 o'clock. I used wd40 rust to spray it before and during the struggle. I have a good impact gun, it took off the main pulley bolt with no problem. It could not budge this bolt. I think I spent 3 or 4 hours trying to budge it. Ruined the bolt head by using my impact gun. I bought a bolt extracting socket and moved everything out of the way. Put a wrench and cheater bar on it and just keep applying pressure until it snapped. The bolt snapped down near the bottom so I was able to get the top half of the bracket off and then access the hidden bolt at about 7 o'clock and remove the bracket. I went to a junk yard which had a 2004 sienna like mine and the same bolt was also not going to move. I found I think a 3.0 camary and a 2001 sienna with a little different set up then ours and took out the camarys bracket. The top bracket is different and does hot have all of the same bolt holes ours does. The bottom is stamped with a different number but I think is identical to ours. I took the top long bracket bolts out of both cars and they both came out real easy.

IF I were doing this I would pre-spray with wd40 for rust give it one good try and then snap the bolt. If that bolt does not move after a half hour or so of effort nothing is going to make it move. If i were applying heat I would go for the bottom where the thread sticks out...its aluminum and surround by plastic. IF you go to a junk yard try the same engine first and if that rear bolt is also not going to move go for the previous generation sienna or a 3.0 six cylinder . They have the same set up but have a different vibration damper set up and the top bracket is different but the bottom half is identical to ours.

My take away is there are no real tricks to get that bolt in the back to move. Give it a fair half hour of effort then torque it till it snaps and move on....I am going to reinstall my top bracket and use the junkyard bottom and teh bolt I got from the junkyard.

 

[04SiennaNow]

Had same issue on both bolts on right upper motor mount. Both bolts seized. I broke the timing cover to gain access to the lower mounts hidden bolt. After removing the lower assembly i beat on it for hours ended up replacing both aluminum pieces and hardware. It seems that the long through hole for the upper assembly X type bracket collects water and corrodes. the rear bolt in mine was seized and i tried pressing it out with a hydraulic arbor press. I ended up pressing the rod i was using to push through the side of the mount.. My replacement upper brace came from a junkyard. I had to remove it my self.. Same issue as mine but this time after heating it and beating on it for about and hour i was able to remove the bolt. I broke the lower mount at the yard to salvage the middle piece..

 

[siechatu1001]

Very old thread, but I would like to add since information is still useful for others. The two long bolts are also stuck for mine. Front bolt just broke off at the bottom. The rear, I spray with rust penetrating liquid, did it again and again. I also turned it a little back and forth. 3 days later, I decided to remove the two brackets together. I used a method posted on youtube and probably here somewhere. Took all the nuts, bolts (one in a gap, use 12 mm box end wrench to loosen, then the open end to turn). I remove two small bolts holding the air conditioning lines and move it out a bit, tilted the whole unit and lifted it out. Very tight.

Ok, here's the hard part. I drilled the rear bolt from the bottom. The final hole is probably 1/4" I think. Then I turned on top, but that didn't work. Rounded out at the end.

So I welded a plate with a hole onto that bolt head. The helps the weld stronger.

Then I turned and it finally broke the bolt head off.

I then used a hammer to hit the little extruded part of the bolt. I also punch the aligning pin in the middle down. I then rotate it a little back and forth until it broke at the bottom.

Now, I have two broken threaded bolts in the bottom mount.

The top bolt doesn't come out. It stuck even though I can move about 3/8" up and down with hammering. I used a press to push it out but after 3 bended punch rods, and flying stuff, I decided to take a break for now.

So, what's the reason for this bad design?

1. Long bolt causing twisting motion, so a hand or air impact driver would not do any good. The bolts are also of the vary soft quality. I drilled right through it with ease.
I took apart bolts of a 30 lawn tractors and all bolts are not stuck. They're either not rusted or rusted, but just come out no problem. This bolt is very low quality.

2. The "cup" design of the aluminum pipe collecting any water falls in it. That's why the rod is rusted badly at the bottom.

Anyway, I think anyone haven't done this yet, just take out all bolts/nuts of the bottom bracket, take out the TB cover. Then remove it to save headache and time.