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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tough to fit anything on there...the exhaust is close and the plug is recessed so you can't get a regular wrench or socket on there properly.

What does everyone else use on this drain plug? Seems to be 24mm, but would need to be a thin wall tool...
 

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The 2005 service manual doesn't show any special or specific tool, just saying to remove it. In the illustration it is clearly just a plain hex head, but it does look large and seems to have little clearance around it to the casting for socket wall thickness.

It doesn't look like any significant depth of reach is required - would an offset box-end wrench fit, and be easy to get in there? There are also extra short "low profile" sockets and thin-head ratchets.

By the way, the manual notes that when it - and the other plugs - are replaced new gaskets should be used, and the plugs tightened to 49 N-m (36 ft-lbf).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's recessed enough (as close to the bolt) that it's tough to find anything to fit it without stripping the thing. Was hoping someone might have a suggestion so I don't have to make a tool. :)
 

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I would suggest the thin-wall sockets used for stupidly designed alloy wheels, but they are usually quite deep, and this calls for the opposite extreme... and 24 mm is very big for a wheel nut, anyway.

Will a normal (not impact) socket wall thickness really not clear? There is variation between brands... usually the more expensive stuff has thinner walls, presumably due to closer tolerances. It would presumably still need to be short, and/or driven by a thin ratchet.

How far is it between the face of the plug head and the offending other parts (exhaust?)?

I would look at mine... but it's not AWD.
 

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Correct it is 24mm. I have snap-on wrenches from when I was an apprentice. I have one that works and one that does not fit. So much for the best tools ??? A friend of mine has a "off" brand wrench that works well (hazet?) but he has ground off metal around the box-end so it will work.

I know this is not what you wanted to hear. There probally is a box-end wrench out there that will work but @ what price IDK.

Hopefully someone has one that works without modifying it.

Sorry for not being much help
 

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robo5 said:
Correct it is 24mm. I have snap-on wrenches from when I was an apprentice. I have one that works and one that does not fit. So much for the best tools ??? A friend of mine has a "off" brand wrench that works well (hazet?) but he has ground off metal around the box-end so it will work.

I know this is not what you wanted to hear. There probally is a box-end wrench out there that will work but @ what price IDK.

Hopefully someone has one that works without modifying it.

Sorry for not being much help
I've messed with my transfer case fluid (changed it myself). A crappy tire maximum boxed end wrench fits... A princess auto one doesn't... Good thing for neighbours with nice tools...

cheers,

shineysideup
 

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Yes, it is 24mm 6 point socket. But you have to find a very shallow depth socket which I couldn't find. Finally I customized my own socket by cutting it on the machine and grind it for finishing.

Good Luck.
 

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I just fit a 15/16" socket on the plug ... that's 23.8mm, and it seemed a bit loose. Are you sure this doesn't require a 23mm socket?

*** update *** scratch that, I just measured with a caliper and it's just under 24mm. 15/16" works though.

I wonder why they didn't use the same type of plugs as for the diff. Especially since it's the same fluid there is no need to prevent you from accidentally mixing plugs and fluid ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Funny that you bumped this... getting time to replace the fluid again. I don't recall what I used, but I do have a bit more 24mm wrenches now to try. We'll see. If I find something that fits, I'll post the brand/model.
 

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When you do this, would you mind reporting on whether or not any settling occurred as you filled up the gearboxes? The Toyota service pages suggest that you should top off the fluid several times at several minute intervals, implying that it takes a while for the fluid to work it's way down into all the spaces. Somewhere it also suggests that you drive the car a bit and then recheck levels. Ugh ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When you do this, would you mind reporting on whether or not any settling occurred as you filled up the gearboxes? The Toyota service pages suggest that you should top off the fluid several times at several minute intervals, implying that it takes a while for the fluid to work it's way down into all the spaces. Somewhere it also suggests that you drive the car a bit and then recheck levels. Ugh ...
Yep, no problem. I don't recall doing that last time, but I will check.
 

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Okay I just replaced the transfer case fluid yesterday. Lots of dark gunky fluid out, nice clean Amsoil Severe Gear in. Let's see if that makes any difference in gas mileage :)

I bought a 24mm wrench, and it was pretty loose on the drain plug. I think 15/16" would have been better. I could not fit the box end of the wrench on that plug -- had to use the open end. not much room around that bolt head!

I used a 15/16" socket for the fill plug, which worked nicely with almost no play. So I would vote that these bolts are 15/16" ... where was the transfer case made?

*** UPDATE: The Lexus forums I checked also said 15/16" ... a buddy's 2000 RX300 looks like it has the same diff and xfer case as my Sienna. ***

Those contoured crush washers are pretty cool. They put up moderate resistance until you bottom them out, then it gets real hard, a couple of solid tugs to crank the bolt just a tad more, then you're done. (Torque wrench not usable on the drain plug, but I've got a good feel for 30-40 ft-lbs nowadays).
 

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Just did a rear diff and transfer case flush this weekend. For the Tcase I got a standard 3/8 SAE15/16 Husky socket from Home Dept-less than $4. It has thin walls, and fit the drain and fill plugs perfectly, no slop. I used an extendable ratchet for the fill plug, but any ratchet will do. For the drain plug, I used the Husky socket and this 3/8 "breaker bar" that came with a cheap craftsman 3 piece kit. It's shorter than the wratchet and not much a breaker bar but it has a slim profile to get into places a socket wrench can't. I had to angle the socket onto the plug and play w it for a few minutes, but there is just enough room between the plug and the exhaust pipe to fit.
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Can anyone let me know what bolts to remove to do a drain and fill? Looking at the service manual, there's three bolts - remove the drain plug and bolt #1, drain fluid, then fill to bolt 1? Is that right? Haven't done this before and want to make sure.
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