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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there,

Recently i found my steering rack boot to be torn at the bottom, I have read up that in these minivans its not uncommon for the right boots to be torn. I am currently at 240k miles on the original rack so it wouldn't be a surprise to me

Now my main question would be does the Boot hold grease?
I touched the boot and it seemed to be grease but i just want to make sure.
 

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They often tear when a seal in the rack leaks PS fluid. It mixes with the grease in the boot and the combo chemistry damage the rubber boot. Replacing the boot only buys you a few months people report.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They often tear when a seal in the rack leaks PS fluid. It mixes with the grease in the boot and the combo chemistry damage the rubber boot. Replacing the boot only buys you a few months people report.
Thing is i have not lost any fluid in my resiovar
 

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It doesn't take a lot of PS fluid to damage a boot.

It's always possible that your boot died of other causes, but per a search you'll find this situation to be pretty common.
 
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My recently purchased '05 Sienna has a "torn" boot and has been leaking PS fluid for awhile. Best option is to replace the assembly either with a new one or rebuilt/remanufactured assembly (around $400 - $600 CAD). Napa carries them - see their website. RockAuto has them too but won't ship to Canada (item too big for their puny-armed shipper, lol!).

There are a few change-out videos on YouTube with comments from Sienners that managed to change out their assembly in the driveway ("necessity being the mother...") but it's much easier done on a hoist. It's an extra-hard job with AWD, my mechanic was a'scared to give me an actual 'quote'. I reckon on the upper side of $1200 for the labour.

Video:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My recently purchased '05 Sienna has a "torn" boot and has been leaking PS fluid for awhile. Best option is to replace the assembly either with a new one or rebuilt/remanufactured assembly (around $400 - $600 CAD). Napa carries them - see their website. RockAuto has them too but won't ship to Canada (item too big for their puny-armed shipper, lol!).

There are a few change-out videos on YouTube with comments from Sienners that managed to change out their assembly in the driveway ("necessity being the mother...") but it's much easier done on a hoist. It's an extra-hard job with AWD, my mechanic was a'scared to give me an actual 'quote'. I reckon on the upper side of $1200 for the labour.

Video:
Like i said my rack isn't leaking.
 

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If you are truly sure of that, then just replace the boot. It isn't all that hard if you have the tools. Mark the nut position, loosen and unscrew, separate the halves, remove the bands and slide on a new boot. Reassemble and if you are concerned about accuracy get an alignment. You'll know in a few months if you were right or wrong....
 
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I had a torn steering rack boot (passenger side). Only had the boot replaced and no problems 26k miles and 3 years later (knocks on wood).

-Mike

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a torn steering rack boot (passenger side). Only had the boot replaced and no problems 26k miles and 3 years later (knocks on wood).

-Mike

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When you replaced your boot did you have a stuck nut between the rods? My nut is so stuck that i even broke a wrench i plan on using some heat tom. I have removed the boot already would it be fine to leave it without a boot overnight? won't be driving it
 

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When you replaced your boot did you have a stuck nut between the rods? My nut is so stuck that i even broke a wrench i plan on using some heat tom. I have removed the boot already would it be fine to leave it without a boot overnight? won't be driving it
I assume you already made the command decision. Yes, it's fine to leave it un-booted overnight while it sits. If your nut is seized, you need to spray the heck out of it, use LOTS of heat, and a very long cheater pipe on the wrench. Someone probably used thread locker PLUS the natural corrosion that comes with time and undercarriages. You CAN put a sandwich bag over the outer tie rod end, grease it up heavily and stretch the boot over it, if you really can't get it apart. I would check to make sure your tie rods don't have play. If they do, you will need to get new ones, so getting it apart destructively may also be an option.
 

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I did both side of my 2005 seinna le with ac delco boots off amazon..it was cheap and good quality .. Still going strong, no problems so far 50k miles and counting.. Its easy to do too.. One side i did the slide it over tie rod with grease and bag over tie rod.. Months later i did other side by taking tie rod off , count threads.. Heating the nut was key... Loosen easy once hot enough.



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When you replaced your boot did you have a stuck nut between the rods? My nut is so stuck that i even broke a wrench i plan on using some heat tom. I have removed the boot already would it be fine to leave it without a boot overnight? won't be driving it
Don't know. The dealer saw it on a state required inspection and I just had them replace it.

Yes, you're completely safe to let it sit without a boot overnight without driving it.

-Mike

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My 2004 boot was torn for 8-10+ years. It was disintegrated into next to nothing. I finally replaced it last month with this boot from Amazon: Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 103-3069 Steering Rack Boot Kit: Automotive Plenty of videos on how to install them by stretching over the tie-rod end so you don't have to get an alignment. Took me about an hour and is an easy DIY if you've got basic tools, jack, and jack-stands.
 

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My 2009 rack was leaking the tinyist bit and my boot was torn. Did the stretching boot replacement method. Flushed the system with new fluid + stop leak. No problems going on 40k+ miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well i was able to finish the boot replacement as well with the ps fluid flush even though i did one not long ago i used the wrong fluid.

I was able to loosen the stuck nut by using a pipe wrench cause i couldn't get it off with a normal one once i got the tie rod off i had to use some heat and a socket to remove the nut completely. Took a bunch of try's but it worked. Thank you all for the feedback and help.

While doing this i managed to spill atf all over my engine bay and destroy a wrench lol.
 

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I really need to change my rack & pinion assembly to do a proper job of it, but to pass the safety inspection here I asked the mechanic if changing the blown bellows/boot is an acceptable repair. He said, "If there's no power steering fluid leaking". Sounds good to me, so I attacked it last night (4pm - 8pm) after watching a couple of YouTube how-to videos. Had to drill out the rusted cotter pin(!) I used a crow's foot wrench and 12" extension on the impact gun (22mm) to loosen the stuck locking nut, then a 7/8" combo wrench and hammer to move it once it was loose. Putting the new bellows on was easy (a Moog bellows $30 CAD). And by carefully marking the steering arm, nut, and tie rod then counting the turns when removing the tie rod you can avoid an expensive re-alignment (if all goes according to Hoyle).

And she passed the safety inspection this afternoon. 5 days fixing the seat/SRS match up and four hours to replace the RH steering bellows. I'm elated. Few other viable options. Feeling grateful 👃
 

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I think I'll try that "Stop Leak" idea. I fixed a leaking coolant problem in my Jeep Grand Cherokee once (no idea where it was leaking it was so tiny) with a trick someone told me about. I made a paste of powdered white pepper and spooned it into the rad. Worked for me for 100K kms until I sold it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I really need to change my rack & pinion assembly to do a proper job of it, but to pass the safety inspection here I asked the mechanic if changing the blown bellows/boot is an acceptable repair. He said, "If there's no power steering fluid leaking". Sounds good to me, so I attacked it last night (4pm - 8pm) after watching a couple of YouTube how-to videos. Had to drill out the rusted cotter pin(!) I used a crow's foot wrench and 12" extension on the impact gun (22mm) to loosen the stuck locking nut, then a 7/8" combo wrench and hammer to move it once it was loose. Putting the new bellows on was easy (a Moog bellows $30 CAD). And by carefully marking the steering arm, nut, and tie rod then counting the turns when removing the tie rod you can avoid an expensive re-alignment (if all goes according to Hoyle).

And she passed the safety inspection this afternoon. 5 days fixing the seat/SRS match up and four hours to replace the RH steering bellows. I'm elated. Few other viable options. Feeling grateful 👃
a crow foot wrench might of not been a bad idea, I do have an impact i could of used but didn't think of using it for some reason lol. I also bought a $20 Moog boot from advanced seems overpriced but for just a boot.. I marked my Tie rod think i got it perfect as it doesn't seem to be pulling to any sides. I am planning though on doing an alignment anyways once i get new tires cause i need a zero calib done after replacing the steering rack Bushings. but other than that my sienna is still rolling 239k miles on the clock.

Also not a fan of stop leaks. Never had any luck with them.
 

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I almost messed up with the crow's foot though - forgot for a moment that I needed to tighten it onto the steering rack shaft - had it turning the wrong way on the first try. I had to hold the end of the adjustable wrench (on the tie rod) and the extension with one hand and run the impact with the other - or that crow's foot goes flying!

I'm also not a fan of 'Stop Leak' - but that white pepper trick work for 10 years on my Jeep! Never had any luck with Bar's Leaks or whatever it's called. Maybe it depends on the size of the leak. My power steering fluid is not going down very fast - gotta try something. Changing that rack will cost close to $2000 by the time it's done. Too hard to do that on the floor what with trying to drop the engine cradle and all to make room to get it out. Guys have done it though, but not many pushing 70yo!
 
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